When bedding with Score High Pro Bed 2000 using the included release agent (wax) do you apply the wax and then wipe it off when dry? Or apply it and let it dry then bed?

I have used Acra-glass release agent that you leave on but and new to the wax method and the instructions are not completly clear. I don't want to glue in my action.

Any help would be greatly appriciated.

I have used it on two different rifles. First one I applied multiple coats buffing between coats. Second one I just coated everything and let it dry. Neither action stuck. The buffed multiple coats gave be a nicer finish to the bedding. The epoxy was nice and smooth and shiny. The other was kinda hazy and had a bit of texture to the surface kinda orange peel like. The bedding setup and filled perfectly in both cases though. So other than cosmetics I don't think it really matters. The Pro Bed 2000 for me is the easiest bedding I have ever used. Mixes easy and very easy to work with. Definitely my go to bedding product from now on.

You want to treat it like car wax - let dry somewhat, then buff it off. The epoxy won't stick, and you will get an exact impression of the metal in the bedding.

If you are dealing with highly polished metal, use two coats. Sometimes the metal is so slick the wax doesn't have anywhere to go and the epoxy will want to stick. I have never had any problem after using two coats. For any normal factory finish short of a Weatherby, one coat is fine.

I spread wax with a toothbrush and do a gentle wipe-down with a soft cloth. Haven't glued agun in 20 years that way. It's also good rust protection.

If you buff it out a little bit the bedding will match the metal that much closer. If you have a relatively rough receiver, or if it's got a rough finish like ceracoat, you may want to leave it a tad thicker.

Thanks guys, I just applied three coats of wax buffing between coats and then bedded it. Hopefully I won't be posting a "how to remove a stuck stock" thread tomorrow.

Thanks again! Brad

I'm not a fan of the wax and use one-shot with better results.

I use probed2000 exclusively,and have since Charley started selling it.the wax is a good product.I distribute with a acid brush,let it dry,and coat all metal again .make sure it is dry! After removing the action ,I use a hair drier to heat wax and rub off.never had a problem .

http://www.finishkare.com/pr-1...iquid_Wax_28_7_6.htm

http://www.miller-stephenson.com/home_003.htm

http://www.google.com/search?q...wAQ&biw=1271&bih=822

http://www.henkelna.com/indust...performance-6941.htm




A Tip when resin release is absolutely critical and there can be NO EXCUSE !:Apply a coat of decent mold release wax ,allow to dry then buff ,repeat . Now with a soft cotton rag or swab lightly apply a coverage coat of ; water soluble polyvinyl alcohol or PVA .
Allow trough drying and put whatever you want against it !.

Guarantee NOTHING will stick and unlike silicone it won't screw your stock up !!!. It's NEVER failed even while using it in a Green mold !. I've used near every manufacturers resins along with release's additives witches brew of concoctions ,many from my own cauldron an it hasn't failed me yet .

The Good News ; Is now you can also purchase much of this stuff in small quantities and not through industrial suppliers with minimums exceeding your Rifle !.

Doc The wax buffed is much better.
The stuff you show is too thick for bedding.

Glenn