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Tig welding Sako bolt handle
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Anybody with actual experience welding a 60's era Sako bolt handle- what filler rod to do build up work. Just altering the bolt profile. Also, does anyone know of a threaded heat sink for the same bolt- L579. Thanks.
 
Posts: 1188 | Location: Wyoming | Registered: 04 April 2009Reply With Quote
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This is how I do it on a L461, vee the joins out and weld down the sides and around the back using a high quality mild steel TIG filler rod. I try not to do any build up with the TIG. I don't use a heat sink as I keep the heat to a minimum , but you could just turn one up out of ally or copper.
Hope this helps.
 
Posts: 644 | Location: Australia | Registered: 01 February 2013Reply With Quote
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Nice work.
 
Posts: 19660 | Location: wis | Registered: 21 April 2001Reply With Quote
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Well do very classy
 
Posts: 239 | Location: branson mo | Registered: 28 April 2010Reply With Quote
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I love seeing good work (pics)!!
 
Posts: 526 | Registered: 13 March 2011Reply With Quote
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Very nice with good info and excellent photos. Thank you.
 
Posts: 1188 | Location: Wyoming | Registered: 04 April 2009Reply With Quote
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Filler wire-
Match the parent material.
If coated wire is used...remove the copper for color match.


Keep'em in the X ring,
DAN

www.accu-tig.com
 
Posts: 430 | Location: Fairbanks,AK. | Registered: 30 October 2008Reply With Quote
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Tell us about that fixture please.
 
Posts: 427 | Location: MN | Registered: 11 May 2011Reply With Quote
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It's just a block of ally with a slot milled in it, and a piece of timber with a flat plate bolted on to push the handle up tight. Agricultural I know.
I originally made it for mausers but have built a better one for them, this one just gets used for odd ball jobs.
The Sako bolt is smaller in diameter hence the cardboard spacers! Improvisation rules.
 
Posts: 644 | Location: Australia | Registered: 01 February 2013Reply With Quote
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Dan, That is part of the issue. I have not tried to contact Sako but what is the handle made of; appears forged. I have some of the 5% nickel you get from Brownells, what I have always used, cleaned of the copper coating.
 
Posts: 1188 | Location: Wyoming | Registered: 04 April 2009Reply With Quote
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Kda, I've never used it but have heard Brownells 5% nickel rod is crap for TIG.
I use ER70S-6, the bolt handles I use are 1020.
Are you just going to build up the existing handle to change the profile?
 
Posts: 644 | Location: Australia | Registered: 01 February 2013Reply With Quote
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Yes Metal that is the plan. If I can use any mild steel 70K tig rod I am good to go. I believe I have some ER70S. I have done the same to pre64 Winchesters with build up to look like pre war bolts- makes a much nicer looking handle. I would love to do what you did but no jig and then the machining. I have nothing but time, files and stones.
 
Posts: 1188 | Location: Wyoming | Registered: 04 April 2009Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by metal:
This is how I do it on a L461, vee the joins out and weld down the sides and around the back using a high quality mild steel TIG filler rod. I try not to do any build up with the TIG. I don't use a heat sink as I keep the heat to a minimum , but you could just turn one up out of ally or copper.
Hope this helps.




That is beautiful work, outstanding.

.
 
Posts: 42402 | Location: Crosby and Barksdale, Texas | Registered: 18 September 2006Reply With Quote
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quote:
I originally made it for mausers but have built a better one for them,


Can we see a few photos of the mauser one and some photos of completed bolt jobs on mausers Big Grin
 
Posts: 2059 | Location: Mpls., MN | Registered: 28 June 2014Reply With Quote
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