I use a Manson floating reamer holder for cutting chambers. Since my tail stock quill is "not as young as it used to be" I'm wondering why not also use it with the 16" long piloted liner drill bits? It might be necessary to grind a flat on the bit's shank for the holders set screw to prevent slipping but it seems, with careful use, the holder should handle the torque OK. Anyone done this?

I haven't done that, but it seems "do able."

I would indicate the drill shank after installing it in the floating holder just to get it as close to parallel as possible.

I've not used a floating holder of that manufacture before so I don't know if it adjusts for parallel or not. The floating holders I've used before adjust for concentricity, but not for parallel other than the "vee" in the holders jaws. If your tail stock is not on center, or the quill really worn out you might take the effort just to play it safe.

Eric

quote:

Originally posted by Jon:
I use a Manson floating reamer holder for cutting chambers. Since my tail stock quill is "not as young as it used to be" I'm wondering why not also use it with the 16" long piloted liner drill bits?

Piloted barrel liner drills aren't exactly precision tools like a chamber reamer. They are pretty flexible as it is and will follow any hole you put in front of it, without any help.

quote:

Originally posted by Westpac:

quote:

Originally posted by Jon:
I use a Manson floating reamer holder for cutting chambers. Since my tail stock quill is "not as young as it used to be" I'm wondering why not also use it with the 16" long piloted liner drill bits?

Piloted barrel liner drills aren't exactly precision tools like a chamber reamer. They are pretty flexible as it is and will follow any hole you put in front of it, without any help.

Only as long as the tail stock isn't to far out of whack, nor if the user isn't using the whole length of the drill. That last inch or so can, and probably will, drill a little big if it's over, under, or to the side of center.

quote:

Originally posted by Eric:
Only as long as the tail stock isn't to far out of whack, nor if the user isn't using the whole length of the drill. That last inch or so can, and probably will, drill a little big if it's over, under, or to the side of center.

In that case he would be better off drilling it by hand. That's kind of why these "piloted" liner drills were designed. So that simple folks could drill a barrel and install liners without the expense of a lathe. Besides there is no better floating reamer holder than your own hands holding on to an electric drill motor.

Absolutely. If he drills from both ends, he will be fine. Just don't pust the drill, (let it cut it's own way through) and use lots of oil.

Just line your tail stock up the best your can and drill.
With a drill that long the tail stock will never be close to the drill point where the cutting is happening. The long drill shank will just bend to follow the existing hole. I would much prefer drilling in the lathe if the tailstock is not too heavy to pull back and clear the chips.
Before drilling spin the barrel at about 50 to 60 rpm and look through it while it is turning.
You can assess how crooked the bore is before your start so you will not think your drilling caused it. A crooked hole will look like a jump rope when the lathe is running.

The thing I'm really trying to avoid is that small "wallowing" of the cutting end of the bit around the pilot as it enters the muzzle. Even with a perfect set-up the slightest pressure bends the bit a little and enlarges the hole until enough of it gets in to stabilize things. The goal of course is to avoid a visible "seam" between the original barrel and the liner. Guess I'll just go slow and give it a try. Thanks for the comments.

Jon

The liner drill is too long to prevent the initial flex you are talking about, but, if you are using your lathe, and provided the bore is straight, you can pre-drill the end of the barrel with a standard length drill bit, or, use a boring bar prior to inserting the more flexible liner drill. That might help alleviate your concern. What do you plan on securing the liner with?

I phoned Dave Manson today and described what I was going to try with his reamer holder. He said it sounded interesting and might actually work. An analogy for the floating holder might be something like a moving finger-tip compensating while trying to balance a mop handle. Anyway, I tried it and it "sort of works". It DID remove about 50% of the wallow but the 18" long bit bends so easily it does not return enough "feedback" to the movable holder surfaces to overcome friction for fine adjustments. Of course this is not a problem with a short, stiff, chamber reamer. I have tried pre-drilling a couple of times and it IS better than just using the long bit. With this particular barrel (16" Win. 94 "Trapper") I'll only have to drill a few inches of the muzzle, turn it around, and drill the remaining 13" from the breech where wallow doesn't matter. All of my re-lines have been on old, low pressure single shots and lever guns. This "trapper" was a 30-30 and soon will be a 38-55 WCF. I've always used high strength/temp JB Weld epoxy for liner adhesive and have had no failures or other problems.