I have a Winchester model 70 fetaher weight in stainless steel. It is mtte stainless. Well I hva e a few scratchs and rub marks that are very shiney. Is there anyway to dull the stainless after polishing out the scratchs short of beadblasting. Thanks for any advice.

quote:

Originally posted by mike7mm08:
I have a Winchester model 70 fetaher weight in stainless steel. It is mtte stainless. Well I hva e a few scratchs and rub marks that are very shiney. Is there anyway to dull the stainless after polishing out the scratchs short of beadblasting. Thanks for any advice.

It's bead blast or bust.............

To take it back to its original finish here's the formula.

Potters Brand Glass Beads in "AC" grit.

No more than 100 PSI and you're good to go.

Or, you can work it over with a green scotch brite pad. Less chance of screwing something up if you're not good at prepping the gun for a bead blasting, and, it doesn't require special equipment. With the scotch brite pad, you can touch up the finish on the go and without the fear of contaminating the rest of the gun.

quote:

Originally posted by Westpac:
Or, you can work it over with a green scotch brite pad. Less chance of screwing something up if you're not good at prepping the gun for a bead blasting, and, it doesn't require special equipment. With the scotch brite pad, you can touch up the finish on the go and without the fear of contaminating the rest of the gun.

The only way a MATT finish is obtaned is to blast no if's an's or but's

quote:

Originally posted by ted thorn:
The only way a MATT finish is obtaned is to blast no if's an's or but's

quote:

Originally posted by mike7mm08:
Is there anyway to dull the stainless after polishing out the scratchs short of beadblasting.

Yes there is like I said, with a scotch brite pad.

http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/matte

The matte "aluminium appearnce obtained by glass bead blasting cannot be duplicated by any other treatment.

Scotch Brite will give you a shiny, brushed appearance, very attractive, but quite different from bead blasting.

Either you accept the blemishes, or you give the complet barrel the Scoth Brite treat; there is no way in between.

there is a 3rd way which uses a chemical and electrolysis that we use in manufacturing, but its not a common thing. scotchbrite also comes in different grits depending on what finish you want. you can scotchbrite by hand or use it in a flapwheel die grinder setup.

There's matte and then there's matte...........

Matte is obtained by dulling the finish from polishing......you can do that with a scotch brite pad, but it won't be the matte finish 99% of the folks in the gun industry associate with matte finish. It will be brushed, like what is seen on the Ruger rifles.

The cheapest and easiest way to obtain a matte finish is with bead blasting, though chemicals in certain circumstances can accomplish the same thing, but they may or may not match the parts that were originally bead blasted.

Any smith worth his salt, that's been in business for any length of time at all, should be able to bead blast your rifle for you, with very little monetary outlay on your part.

Having read this thread, I decided to try out the Scotch Brite approach.

Yesterday, while I was cleaning some guns, I attacked some bright spots on one of my stainless rifle actions where some scope bases had been mounted and then removed.

I used the edge of a Scotch Brite pad, scrunched and wadded up, with a sort of dabbing motion, to dull it and blend it into the matte finish around it.

It ain't perfect, but it looks pretty damned good - and a lot better than it did before the Scotch Brite treatment.

Words of warning: DO NOT RUB IT AND GO SLOWLY AND SOFTLY! If you don't you will create the brushed finish noted above, or worse, a scratchy looking mess. I tried it on an area below where the stock covers the action and learned it is best just to dab it lightly with the edge.

I was surprised at how abrasive it is.

I took the floor plate of my stainless featherweight to a cylinder head shop in town that had a bead blasting cabinet. It took him about 30 seconds and he didn't want to take any money for it but I shoved a five in his pocket and told him to buy some beer with it. Cylinder head shops frequently have bead blasters, you don't want it sandblasted.

A friend of mine is a machinist making orthopedic equipment. He'll occasionally take a stainless barreled action into work with him and bead blast it for someone. They look like new afterwards.

Scotchbrite or wire wool will make a glaring blemish fade into a background that has had some use. It won't be exhibition grade but should look in keeping with stock scratches filled with black permanent pen