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Howdy-

I just picked up a new Winchester Coyote in .300WSM. I love the looks and the feel of the rifle. I mounted a Weaver Grand Slam 3-10x40 scope in Leupold QRW rings on Weaver bases. The hot-glue bedding bothered me, so (and I know I should have shot it first to see how it did)I rebedded it with Acraglas Gel. I Bedded the recoil lug, the 1st 1" of barrel, and the rear tang area.

My problem is that it WON'T shoot. I have only fired factory 180gr Power-points in it 'cause I'm waiting for the dies to arrive. But, the inconsistency makes me believe that it is more than just the rifle disliking the load. Here's a run-down of what I got out of it today. (all groups were 3shots with the exception of the last)

1st group- 1 1/2" triangle
2nd group- 3" horizontal string
3rd group- 2 within 1/2", then one 2" out

Then, I decided to try the ol' business card trick.

4th group- two into one hole, then one 3" out
5th group(six rounds fired)- 4 within 1", but two more 3" out and 2" apart between the two.

What's the deal? Is it the scope? Did I mess up on the bedding? (I don't see how I could have screwed it up, but stranger things have happened )

I'd love to figure this darn thing out so that I can start load developement soon. Any ideas?

Thanks for any help y'all can provide, and sorry for the length of the post.

Gib
 
Posts: 130 | Location: Fresno, CA - again | Registered: 13 May 2003Reply With Quote
<allen day>
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With a barrel the diameter of the M-70 Coyote, I would bed the barrel so that it's completely free-floated.

Also, when I bed a Model 70, I do it so that the recoil lug makes full contact with the bedding on at the back of the lug only - not the sides or bottom.

I remove the trigger group, bolt stop, magazine box, and all pins related to those assemblies. I fill-in the various holes and slots in the receiver with Silly Putty (easy to remove later), then coat everything twice with release agent.

I bed the receiver full-length. After the bedding is setup, I trim all excess bedding from the magazine box mortice and then re-drill the screw holes of the stock slightly oversize to remove any bedding material that might have gotten inside. The screws must NOT make contact with these holes, and the magazine box must not bind......

Also, when you reassemble, make sure that the recoil lug is in full contact with the bedding. Tighten the front screw first, then the rear screw. Snug up the middle screw (not too tight), then back it off a quarter turn.

AD
 
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allen, might I inquire as to why you only bed the back surface of the recoil lug? I have done several mod 70's with the full bedding around the lug with very good results. I do agree with floating the barrel.
 
Posts: 1605 | Location: Wa. State | Registered: 19 November 2001Reply With Quote
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Allen-

Thanks for the help. I'll try floating the barrel completely. As for the lug, I put two layers of electrical tape on the front, sides, and bottom when I bedded. While I only bedded front and rear of the action, I did redrill the screw holes so they don't touch. Thanks again.



Gib
 
Posts: 130 | Location: Fresno, CA - again | Registered: 13 May 2003Reply With Quote
<allen day>
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Jimmy, opinions and experiences vary on the question of bedding the lug on not only Model 70s, but Model 700s. Most custom riflemakers and target shooters advocate bedding behind the lug only. Kenny Jarrett is so adamant about it that he once told me, "If you mess up a recoil lug, you might as well kiss a sow in the ass for accuracy!"

Other guys, like yourself and John Barsness, freely admit to bedding the lug, and with no ill effects on accuracy that anyone could tell from the groups.

I've done it both ways on Model 70s and Model 700s, and both ways have worked. However, I've had some rifles that didn't come around after the first try with the lug bedded. Ultimately, I'd remove the bedding around the lug, re-bed behind the lug only, and those rifles then came around after that proceedure. Probably relieved a stress point........ I've never had it work in reverse, though.

AD
 
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<allen day>
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Gib, a couple of other ideas:

Check and see if your scope mounting system is creating stress that is, in effect, flexing your action and causing uneven locking lug contact.

Use a magic Marker on the rear portion of the locking lugs, work the bolt, and see in locking lug contact is even all around.

Check and see if the bolt handle is making contact with the stock. It should not.

AD
 
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I've seen some new coyotes needing a recrown from the factory lately, Just something to check. anther testemony to the Q.C. at winchester of late
 
Posts: 100 | Location: anchorage,alaska,USA | Registered: 15 April 2002Reply With Quote
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I checked the locking lug contact, and it only seems to be contacting a little bit on one of them, and virtually not at all on the other. I could be wrong, but thats the way it looks to me. My Remingtons show good contact, and this one doesn't even compare. What now? Is lapping them something that I could do myself, or do I need to take it to a 'smith?

Thanks - Gib
 
Posts: 130 | Location: Fresno, CA - again | Registered: 13 May 2003Reply With Quote
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