All,

Would like to get some input from those that have played around with the FWT barrel contour.

I have bedded a few, and always take the approach of floating the barrel out from under the chamber, which has always worked well for me.

With the this FWT contour, I am thinking that it may not have adequate stiffnes when totally floated. It is, by the way a p-64 in 30-06, so I am sure many of you have some experience in this area.

I know that each and every piece may be rule onto itself, but was hoping to hear from other as to what has worked for them.

This rifle appears to have very good potential, shooting sub-moa groups regularly, but the POI shifts more than I would like it to. What I would like to achieve is acceptable big-game type accuracy (under 1.5 MOA), that has a consistent POI, which is most important to me.

I have done all of the other stuff, crown, trigger, not onto the stock. I am not opposed to pillaring this thing, which I think I will probably do.

By the way, "out of the box", so to speak, this barrel has a pretty good contact right at the end of the forearm which does not appear to be adding too much pressure to the barrel as there is only the slightest perceptable movement at the bbl/tip area when the action screws are tightened and loosened.

Thanks for any thoughts!

Bob

I just got done last week bedding a new model Classic FW in a McMillan stock.

Couldn't stand the sight of the factory synthetic, although it shot well in it.

Anyway - the factory tupperware stock was bedded tight around the recoil lug and under the chamber/taper area. The stock touched the barrel through the whole channel, but no upward pressure at the tip to speak of.

I bedded the lug on the rear and sides, left the front open(a little bit of clay as filler to make it easy to get in and out). Then bedded the front ring and first 1" of chamber.

No change in POI and its shooting as good or better as before(and looks a helluva lot better, and no change of POI with a tight sling).

Fireball-

Thanks for the input. It is good to know that the free floated bbl worked for you in this case. What is your fwt chambered in, if I might ask?

Do you notice any difference in the groups as the barrel warms up now that it is floated? In it current configuration, the groups mine produces open up quite abit after 3-4 shots. Been wondering if that will change (for better or worse?) without any bbl to forend contact.

Regards

308, and 3 shots is about it until the group starts to open up.

Yes....there's no reason to not glass bed and float the barrel on a featherweight rifle. The fact that they are thin is not an issue.

I have a .30-06 and a .257 Roberts in the featherweight model and both are bedded and floated and work very nicely.

I have had two Weatherby Mark V's (.300 & .257), and a Win SafariClassic in 375 pillar bedded and the the barrels full lenght bedded and have excellent accuracy. The Weatherby's shot horrible until this was done, gunsmith says the figured wood on the forends usually warps and strings the shots and I believe it as I have seen the results while shooting. Think of it this way, You can always freefloat the barrel afterward and will have the benefit of a much stiffer foreend.

Bed it tight all the way..

Bed it 3 point lug tang and at he end of forend

free float it...

Do it in that order and stop when it shoots to your satisfaction..

You have to do it in that order because you can't put wood back and by doing this you find its preference...To think that all guns shoot better one way than another is just inexperience.. It's up to you to find out where it shoots best.

Thanks for the follow-ups guys!

I will start experimenting and let you know how it goes.

I just shot two 3-shot 0.75 inch groups yesterday with this so as to establish a baseline of sorts.

Bob