All right guys, you'd think I would be happy that I didn't totally destroy my stock last night when I installed the pad, but I'm not, there is still a slight edge that you can catch a fingernail on. Looks like on the original pad this was taken care of by the finish which was built up just a touch in that area (finished with the pad on it looks like). I am not refinishing (except that tiny spot I slipped with the sander )

How do you go about getting that last edge off, I was thinking about a block and a finer sandpaper, gives me better control and I can get a smoother finish as well. maybe a 320grit? Input welcome.

Red

Spots add character. And something to talk about around the campfire .

I use a fine flat file then the very last with a sanding block. But more in the 120-240 range.

Wrap one layer of Duct tape right at the stock/pad junction. Hold a length 220 grit emery cloth on the face of a large/long file and sand it down until you start abraiding the duct tape being very careful not to completely sand the duct tape away.

Tape works OK, but .006" SST shim stock is what I now use.

At this point I would go the duct tape, emory cloth and file route. But, in the future, a good set of reading glasses and a bright light will help get it done in one pass.

I had a good light, but two layers of masking tape, and had it so there was no catch, but when I took the tape off I could catch the edge. i am probably just being too picky. Thanks for the suggestions, I'll say this, the wd40 on the sander was a good suggestion from Limbsaver, I noticed when it would wear off the pad would start grabbing.

I have some other take off stocks laying around I am going to practice this on, see if I can't get faster and better at it. my sander is mounted too high also, works fine for normal work, but since I need the look straight down to see the sliver of light between the wood and belt I had to use my step stool so that I could bend my head over without removing my hairline.

I'll try wrapping a single layer of tape and using a block with 240.

Thanks again guys.

Red

What fixture are you using?

quote:

.006" SST shim stock is what I now use

I'll have to try that.

I wrap .005" masking take just ahead of the pad, on the wood.

I use a big belt sander in a vise.
I go to the fine grit belt.

The key for me is keeping my eye in the same plane as the belt, and keeping the angle of the stock parallel belt, as I rotate the stock.

Red,
Loosen the screws for the pad and push it to one side just a skosh, tighten them and then sand it down a bit more. Do the same to the other side and you will be too close to mess with. You can also do it up and down to get the heel and toe areas. Works like a charm.

quote:

Loosen the screws for the pad and push it to one side just a skosh, tighten them and then sand it down a bit more. Do the same to the other side and you will be too close to mess with. You can also do it up and down to get the heel and toe areas. Works like a charm.

Brilliant!! I guess that's why they pay you the long money!

Geronimo

Thanks Chic, I thought I had it as close as I could get it using that tape and sanding block, just came in from the shop actually, I'll loosen them and do that. Can't really catch much of an edge now, but there are a couple spots I feel could be tighter.

I talked to a Winchester repair center, they said walnut stain and a finish like Tru-Oil should work for the touch up spot.

No fixture guys, this was not a planned foray into pat installation, I am hunting with my 375 this year because the rest of the rifles are for one reason or another not ready (most of them are at the gunsmiths for various little things) and after shooting a bunch a couple of weeks ago I decided I should put a new pad on it. Gonna try and get out to double check the sights on thur (I leave Saturday for a week of hunting) after I reassemble it. should get to see the difference at that time.

Thanks much.

Red