For those familiar with the Ruger #3 lever, does it need a hard stop, ie.the curved portion of the lever contacting the lower tang. I am going to modify a lever and need to know if I need to maintain contact with the tang for positive stop and lockup or can you rely on the spring plunger mounted in the lever to stop travel of the block upward and provide a positive lock. Info and visuals would be appreciated. Thanks.

The Number 3 lever does not need a hard stop. However, before doing anything else, I would check to see if the breech block is being lifted up enough by the link. The firing pin should center on the bore even if there is pressure downward on the block. If, as is usual, the block is a bit low, I use a couple of vertical posts on the lever, bearing against the bottom of the block, to lift the block fully into position. Regards, Bill.

The lever on the one I bought recently was cut/modified so that it kept a hard stop contact on the tang. I don't know if it is necessary but it seems to work just fine.

As Bill mentioned, I use a couple vertical posts to center the pin. My posts are in the bottom of the block and the lever contacts them.

Question for Bill. How would I check for the block being centered with the bore without cutting or modifying the lever. The spring plunger self centers when closed; any slop would be in the link. Also, I do not understand what you mean by vertical posts. Are you suggesting shims or some such to lift the block into position and permanently mounted to the lever. Thanks for your help to you and all the gunsmiths who contribute so freely to us cobblemasters.

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Originally posted by kda55:
Question for Bill. How would I check for the block being centered with the bore without cutting or modifying the lever. The spring plunger self centers when closed; any slop would be in the link. Also, I do not understand what you mean by vertical posts. Are you suggesting shims or some such to lift the block into position and permanently mounted to the lever. Thanks for your help to you and all the gunsmiths who contribute so freely to us cobblemasters.

You can usually tell just by the firing pin strike on the primer but, apart from that, one can use close fitting dummy to check firing pin impact. I made an aluminum stub which threaded into the receiver and checked the firing pin mark on that (last one hit about .015" low). The low breech block is all due to slop in the link.
I drilled the lever, ahead of the trigger and under the block, and put two 1/8" diameter pins in and silver soldered them in place then dressed them to the appropriate height. Mike apparently put his pins in the breech block. Six of one, half dozen of the other. Regards, Bill.

Very good explanation, I believe I can move forward with my project. Thanks to all.