Several Smiths have mentioned that they "glass" barrel band sights and swivels on. They said they use AcraGlass but how would JB Weld work for barrel band sights and swivels? I'm going with the "screw and glue" method from here on out, soldering just doesn't get it done.

Joe

For me... JB weld has cracked if spread to thick. Maybe others with even more experiance can comment.





I use Dev stainless steel putty or Ti putty if I can steal some

I have tried attaching things to a rifle with glass and had them pop off with the first shot.
Now I use glass to give a solid mating for the screws to compress.

JB and every other cheap expoxy is about a strong in compression as the most expensive.

I have used JB to hold together [with cap screws] an ARMS scope mount on a FAL. It has worked for years.

These days I am a Devcon Steel Putty fan.
The strength may be the same, I just like working with it better. It stays put, does not stink, and gives me some time to get it together before it goes off. The extra cost is more than offset by my reduced number of times to "chisel it all out and start over".

Should I let some epoxy get down in the screw holes to lock them in as well? I had planned on applying the epoxy then quickley tightening the screws. I do not wish this sight to EVER come off or move.

Joe

I try hard to keep expoxy out of screw holes.



I clean the screws and screw holes with alcohol.

Then I use Loctite 242 to keep screws in place.

That way, the screws can be removed without a torch.

I wonder why soldering does not get it done?



My smith solders all his on, never a problem.



Are you tinning both the barrel and sights first?



Are they clean, with just a thin solder coat on both first and then just hot enough to completely bond the two "everywhere" underneath?



Dave lightly sands the surfaces, cleans, melts some solder and heats the surface enough to just keep it melted as he wipes it to where it's needed with steel wool. The steel wool hairs stick when you keep from heating it excessively, but burns off. Make sure no hairs get left on it at all, and wipe off all but the thin layer it leaves on barrel and piece. Level the piece and clamp together, heat until it's "just" bubbling around the edges while adding solder if needed to fill any thin spots at the edges while working with a thin metal rod around the edges and steel wool to remove excess.



Must be CLEAN, and it won't hold unless BOTH are tinned.



Once it's blended and smoothed up, looks like part of the barrel, which I doubt bedding in epoxy comes even close to.



I'd trust the solder bond on his non-banded swivels, not epoxy though, although it may work.



I've yet to do any myself, but it looks easy enough to do.

J.B.Weld,does it all.But it's not in with the gun conglomerats.Like Brownells.

JB Weld works great for a lot of stuff, I agree. Here's a M7 synthetic I just skim bedded in it. I do like to let it set up for about 15 minutes before hand though, thicken up a bit. Great for tightening up splines too!