I realize that most custom rifles in Mauser configuration have the triggers changed...but is it possible to work on the one that is there, get rid of the two stage pull part, smooth it up, perhaps work with the spring and get a reasonable 3 lb. pull???? Interest perks here due to old correspondence with Jack Lott and Mr. Belk and Mr. Burgess posts on the wood left behind the magazine box for bedding...new triggers use up a lot of wood that the original triggers did not, both in length of cut and width...ideas???? Arthur

Arthur,
I have had some military actions where the trigger once the first stage was taken up, broke like glass. I often wondered why I replaced them. You can use a set screw in the trigger to take up the first stage and they work fine. A smith like Jack who is good with triggers can improve the surfaces and decrease the pull.

Even with that and for all the work, I would replace it with a Timney.

Chic...thanks for the reply...the only reason not to replace the trigger, that I can see (probably with the Blackburn), is the amount of wood needed to be removed that weakens the stock in a difficult position...random thoughts from Jack Lott...wonder if "new ideas" are in the offing...Arthur

Arthur, I approach a big bore a bit differently. I do not allow the magazine box to act as a recoil surface and then that issue goes away. Some people do and I feel it causes more problems. On a big bore I would put a cross bolt behind the recoil lug, pillar bed the rear action screw and a second lug on the barrel in the forearm. The second cross bolt is not needed in that situation

[ 12-22-2002, 11:24: Message edited by: Customstox ]

Arthur this might help. I also swept the trigger back so you don't have to "reach" for it. it breaks like glass at 3 1/4#.

P.S. Anybody that has any old Mauser triggers laying around in their way I have a home for them.


[ 12-22-2002, 19:32: Message edited by: Bear Claw ]

P.S. Anybody that has any old Mauser triggers laying around in their way I have a home for them.

Bear Claw, email me!

Tsturm you have mail.

Bear Claw
Thanx for posting the picture, got me to thinking of things I had NOT thought of before as far as triggers. Maybe it is because I started out with two stage triggers, but I actually prefer them, if they are crisp (your picture solves some of the other issues with them).
Do you change springs, or just clip?

LouisB

Nosey minds want to know.

What happens if one creates a radius the face of the sear to reduce the amount of surface area in contact? Does that decrease in surface area increase the friction or decrease it?

[ 12-22-2002, 21:56: Message edited by: TCLouis ]

Louis you can do it either way. I prefer changing to a wee bit lighter spring of the original length. I buy the tube full of springs that Brownells sells. There is another modification that uses a 1/4# ball bearing. I'll see if I can find one & post the pic here.

Doug how the hell do you drill and tap those things? I tried putting one of the screws up front like you have and eventually gave up. I thought about trying to anneal that area, but that would be too complicated. I've only tried on that one trigger, but I bet they're all 'hard as woodpecker lips.'

Todd

Todd the extentions you see with the screws were bent then Drilled & Tapped then silver soldered on to the trigger.

Doug,
Thanks for posting that. The set screw in the front was what I was talking about but the rear adjustment is a new one on me. I like it.

Paul Dressel is working on a trigger that looks like the ones that Browning put on their FN actioned rifles. Very similar to a Winchester model 70. He is going to have them out soon.

The rear screw is of course for overtravel adjustment. The reason I do these is pure & simple economics.

Someone should mention here that if you take out the first stage of a two stage M-98 trigger you are reducing the amount of sear engagement by two thirds. That, in my opinion is dangerous.

Jack thank you! Two heads are always better than one & you got me scrutinizing this design more closely. I have a modification that I need to make. I will post it here when I finish.