You gunstock makers have been great to be so patient with so many questions and I've learned a ton here. But, as usual, I have another problem I need some expert advice on.

I'm putting the finish coats of Truoil on my stock and it looks pretty good at first glance, but in the right light I can see the swirls in the finish from rubbing it in with my fingers. So, each time I have to wet sand down before the next coat, then do it again. Someday I'd like to get to the end of this process.
How do I eliminate the swirls in the finish or should I use a different finish to finish up this stock? How do you guys apply Truoil on your stocks? Would some other finish work better and could I put it on over the Truoil I've already put on this stock without having to start over from scratch?
Any help is appreciated- Sheister

Sheister,
Tru Oil is a bit thick for my tastes when it comes to the final build up coats. I would thin it with some solvent and apply that and rub it. Do some very thin coats with only a few drops on each side and rub it like you did before. There will not be enough to create those swirls. Just do more of them to get the desired luster. Once you get it built up you can go over it again with the thinned mixture and rottenstone to give a matte finish. (stay away from steel wool)

give that a shot, you cant hunt now anyway.

Try puting a few drops on a dry cleaning patch and then rub it in as usual instead of with your fingers. I have found that this will take out the swirls as the patch leaves only the smallest amount of oil and the dry part of the patch helps the drying to begin immediately. The more such patches you use over time, the glossier the finish will be. Wait a day or two between the patches. I have found that at this point, one or two patches are all that is needed to do the entire stock (4-6 drops of oil). I just hold the patch around my first finger with my thumb and middle finger and dab the patch in the oil lightly once and then start rubbing the stock.

Hope it helps.

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Larry

Guys, I buy a box of heavy duty mechanics wiping cloths, I think they're called Workhorse or something like that. They are probably a paper product but they don't unravel, come apart or leave any lint what so ever provided you don't wear them to death. I cut them up into strips and then into cleaning patches. I also use them for applying stock finish. They work absolutely great. Just dab a folded edge into your Pro-custom or whatever you're using and spread it on. If you get the finish too heavy in a spot you can pick it back up cleanly and even it out. They are better than regular cleaning patches for durability and cheap as all get out if you don't mind spending a bit of time with a straight edge and razor knife cutting them up.

Thin it a bit and use a cleaning patch to put a small amount on. And work very quickly, you want to have it all coated before it starts to dry...

Thanks for all the help guys, I knew I could count on you guys for some pointers.
I tried a couple of the ideas and they worked fine. One thing, maybe I'm just not holding my mouth right or something- when I just use a drop or two on my finger or the rag, it doesn't seem to cover very much area before it starts to dry up. Am I using too much, too little, or is this how you "build up" the finish until it is uniform across the entire stock?
I've used Truoil before, but never took the time to do it right, I guess. Especially not rubbed in in this manner. Sure is starting to look good, though.
Keep the info coming- Thanks- Sheister

Sheister,
Wet sand it back to the wood with 360 grit. then mix 1/3 true oil, 1/3 walnut Watco, 1/3 Mineral Spirits, then apply with a camels hair brush, let set for 15 minutes and wipe lightly with an old T shirt material...let cure for 48 hours recoat, recoat, recoat..Now lightly apply rotten stone and oil rub...Now lightly hand rub with Pilkington red oil from Brownell for a satin finish..let cure for a week and rub down lightly with rotten stone and oil one more time and wax.

True oil and Linspeed are way too thick from the bottle. the Watco is hot and will facilitate drying..finish from start to end should be of water consistency IMO...with any finish.

The other big secret to stock finish is pour the finish to the wood in the beginning and when it is shiney and won't take any more finish, hang it up for 45 days...then wet sand back to the wood and start your finishing....

I have never worried much about it looking like it is drying. As long as it blends seamlessly it will be fine. If you use too much, it will not blend seamlessly and it will begin to show overlap lines. With each successive coat it should last longer on the patch as everything is very positively sealed. Just remember, more coats, higher gloss.

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Larry