Howdy, I am having A Rem 700 rebarreled and the smith was asking if I wanted to have him true the receiver and lap the lugs. Rifle will be a heavy barrel in .221 fireball, used mainly for varmints ect. I will be using factory loads most of the time since I do not reload. Will I really benifit from the extra service? Any input will be helpful. Thanks Bill
Posts: 216 | Location: Port Lavaca, Tx | Registered: 21 April 2004
It is a very rare mass produced receiver that ends up with the barrel threads truly in line with the bolt ways or square to the receiver face. Receivers are normally heat treated after all machining and threading is done.
If you want the upmost accuracy potential from your rifle it certainly doesn't hurt to do this when installing a new barrel and it doesn't cost that much extra anyway.
Rick
Posts: 494 | Location: Valencia, CA | Registered: 22 May 2004
My experience has been that when everything is parrallel and concentric, or perpendicular as appropriate (that means lapped and trued for real people), you have a much more stress free system. That usually makes for a very stable gun that makes small groups in the same place for year after boring year. I say go for it, and not just because it's your money. I believe you will be much happier. The .221 is a dandy cartridge. When you shoot that barrel out get it redone in 300 Whisper and pick up a suppressor. Cats will fear your name..
JCN
PS Stock Remingtons are sometimes accurate. Most all of them have the potential to be very accurate.
PPS Former 91B4S (now called 18D), 12th Group (now called extinct).
Posts: 7158 | Location: Snake River | Registered: 02 February 2004
Anything that can be done to true and square an action, ensure proper lug contact, relieve stress, etc., should be done if fine and consistent accuracy is your goal. This sort of work is money well-spent.
As has been stated, most factory are not square, and some of them are WAY off -- so much so that they are sometimes rejected by savvy gunsmiths.
Thanks to everyone for the great advice, looks like the action will be there alittle longer getting the extra work performed. Cant wait to try it out!!
Howdy Brother JohnCharlieNoak, 18B/18D 1st then 5th Grp
Posts: 216 | Location: Port Lavaca, Tx | Registered: 21 April 2004
Quote: Do you have to re-heat treat the lugs and stuff after?
No. This is simply very light machining or lapping, very little pressure, no heat, not dealing with "casehardened" surfaces. Probably less than the thickness of a pc. of paper being removed from any surface. Except for threads, sometimes that requires more material to be removed.
Posts: 275 | Location: NW USA | Registered: 27 May 2001
