The Accurate Reloading Forums THE ACCURATE RELOADING.COM FORUMS Guns, Politics, Gunsmithing & Reloading Gunsmithing Lothar Walther barrelsGo | New | Find | Notify | Tools | Reply | |
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| <J Brown> |
Where can I buy a Lothar Walther barrel? Jason | ||
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one of us |
Jason, Heres their phone# and E-Mail 770-889-9998 Lotharwalther@mindspring.com | |||
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| <Don G> |
See also, http://www.lothar-walther.com/ Don | ||
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one of us |
Lothar Walter are great barrels. The company operates a bit differently than others but you will get used to it.  ------------------ | |||
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| one of us |
Bear Claw, What do you mean by "operates a bit differently"? They make barrels in some interesting calibers and I might try to use one some day. I know Ray really likes them. | |||
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I mean in a business sense. (1)You call them & tell um what you want. (2)They send you a copy of your order with the cost of the barrel on it. (3)You send them your money. (4)When they get your money they place your order in motion. It usually takes me around 9 weeks to get a barrel .
[This message has been edited by Bear Claw (edited 12-13-2001).] | |||
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| one of us |
what is the price range of their barrels? | |||
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GSF 1200, I talked to them last month and they quoted me $149 for a prefit, threaded and chambered barrel in .404 I would really like to try one. | |||
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| one of us |
Sounds cheap enough, I will give them a try. | |||
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| one of us |
I have been using all the better barrels for 40 years...As to Lothar-Walther? well THERE IS NO OTHER BARREL TO COMPARE. Please don't correct me on this, I'm very one way on this subject and I will never respect you in the morning if you argue this point with me ------------------ | |||
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| one of us |
quote: Tell um Ray, I'll stand shoulder to shoulder with you on this! Fine barrels they are indeed. ------------------ | |||
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| one of us |
I am trying a 30 cal 26" 1/8 twist barrel for a 1000yd benchrest gun finished at 1.250" with no taper. They quoted me $200.00 for a BR quality barrel but what was interesting was their proprietary barrel alloy that is a fairly soft Stainless steel with no sulfur in it. I decided to have them send a second barrel to the gunsmith because there were some machinability questions. The do some interesting this with their barrel like give them a 0.0002" choke at the end of the barrel that enhances accuracy. Plus they are producing thses barrels on state of the art equipment and sell here in the US about 60 to 3000 barrels a day according to Woody Woodson their manager. I dont think you can go wrong. Ted Sierocinski | |||
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Woody is a fine fellow & belongs to the fraternal order of the 338/06 too.  ------------------ | |||
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| one of us |
Did he say they were selling between 60 and 3,000 barrels a DAY??? | |||
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| one of us |
I have only used two. One chromoly and one stainless. They are good barrels. The stainless is not as easily machinable as the stainless used by most manufacturers but is claimed to offer better life. The barrel was not as straight as i would have liked which complicates setup but in the end it worked out well and is one of the best shooting hunting rifles I have barreled. The customer loves it. I don't know that their barrels are superior to others but they are certainly as good as most. I did find it a little more difficult to get the reamer to cut as smoothly as in a Douglas for instance but in the end was able to do so (this in the stainless the chromoly seemed no different from any number of others). I notice when reading his post that Ray sometimes comes across as being a little obstinate if not downright bullheaded. I'm sure this is not really the case! Regards, Bill. | |||
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Bill Leeper I have a rebarrel job coming up with a Lothar-Walther barrel in SS. Woody told me to use the thinist grade of cutting oil or deep hole drill oil for the the chambering job. He claimed I would have no trouble providing I dialed everything in for perfect alignment and used close fitting live pilot reamers (which I do anyway). What type of lube or cutting oil did you use? Do you chamber and thread between centers or through the headstock? I prefer to work through the headstock. I have a Clausing 5900 series which is pretty rigid and has gave no trouble with other brands of barrels. I'm just trying to avoid having problems that some smiths have experienced with their barrels. | |||
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Craftsman, In the end I handled the barrel much as I would any other with some exceptions. I threaded between centers as usual and chambered in the steady. I have chambered both ways over the years and in the end prefer to use the steady. I should mention that I indicated the bore and turn the center in the barrel to ensure that it runs true when I thread and turn the shank. I use a carbide dead center and recheck the bore in the steady to make sure that it is running true. I use a test spud to set the barrel so that the first part of the barrel is running paralell with the machine. All pretty standard stuff and probably not worth mentioning! Anyway I used Sulflo oil in the thick grade (sorry Woody) and ran the lathe at 90 RPM. I tried running faster but didn't like the way it was cutting. This steel does show a real tendency to work harden and this seemed a bit worse at the higher rpm. I roughed with a new drill bit leaving about .020 on the diameter to ream. I used cutting oil with the drill. I felt that the barrel chambered a lot like a pretty tough 4140 barrel. Not nearly as bad as some of the stories you hear but not like the average ss barrel either. I threaded the waste piece first just to get an idea how the material acted since it was my first experience with this steel. By the way my oil of choice is Rigid Nu-clear and I used the Sulflo because I had it and was out of rigid. Can't fault it. Regards, Bill. | |||
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Bill I have very good results using "Tap Magic" to ream those stainless barrels. It cost a bit more but well worth it. When I do use cutting oil I go with the sulpher based oils. ------------------ [This message has been edited by Bear Claw (edited 12-18-2001).] [This message has been edited by Bear Claw (edited 12-18-2001).] [This message has been edited by Bear Claw (edited 12-19-2001).] | |||
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Bill Thanks for the info. I've been at this for quite a few years but still want to know everyone else's technique. I'm open minded to new and differant ways of doing things, suprising how much you learn. I haven't used any of your recomended fluids, I'll have to give them a try. On chrome moly, I still get very good results from a common sulfer bearing cutting oil. Lately I've been testing Relton cutting fluid. I can can detect an improvement with it and it's fast becoming my favorite. Dave Kiff at PPG reamers recomends Rust Lick WS600 AC sold by MSC. I plan to try it when I convert to a through the bore coolant system. Bear Claw Tap Magic was also recomended by Woody (at Lothar-Walther) and Dave Kiff at PPG reamers. That stuff seems to evaporate so quick I was always scared of running dry. Do you squirt it in as the reamer just starts cutting or do you brush it on like any other oil? How about speeds and feeds? | |||
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First I am not a machinist but I wanted to prep Howard Wolfe who never used these barrel and I relied upon Woody Woodson's advice. Which was a speed of 325 to 375 rpm and a feed rate of .030". If this sounds too off call him he offered an out of spec barrel so Howard Wolfe could get used to the steel and break in the reamers. We are using PPG reamers also. | |||
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| One of Us |
Ray, I had a thought that was very astute but when I got to your part of the post where you said "will not respect you in the morning" I got a visual image and started to shake. My thought process is totally messed up now. DON'T EVER DO THAT AGAIN!!! It was very scary.......I am starting to feel better. Need my blankie. | |||
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Craftsman I squirt it in the chamber & on the reamer. Tap Magic used to evaporate MUCH faster than it does now. They reformulated it several years back. have been using it for over 20 years. I think I own part of the company now! 90rpm. ------------------ [This message has been edited by Bear Claw (edited 12-20-2001).] | |||
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Tsiero and Bear Claw Thanks for the input guys. On the subject of speeds with PPG reamers. When I first tried their reamers I experienced a lot of torque needed to drive the reamer and some mild heat. Gave Kiff a call and he advised me to kick up my spindle speed from 55 rpm to 125. Man was I scared, It seemed more like 125 miles per hour for chambering but all my problems went away and the reamer cut the chamber like butter. The M-7 steel used in their reamers requires the higher speed to cut properly. | |||
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Craftsman don't worry you will devolope a "feel" for the right amount of feed. I felt the same way when I cut my first chamber. My worst nightmare is ruining a barrel and/or breaking a reamer!$$$$$$$.. Just stay focused.  ------------------ | |||
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