I have taken an old barrel off a 700 Remington rifle, and removed all the bluing from it, leaving it in bare metal. I then cut cicular grooves in it - about 1 inch appart. I have applied different oil to each section, and after 24 hours, I am going to rap a small tissue paper around each section. Then I will soak that tissue paper with sea water.

I will keep track of how quickly each section rusts. Final results will be posted here.

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saeed@ emirates.net.ae

www.accuratereloading.com

I ran a similar test a while back, and the paper I wrote the results on got used to paint something or other on! I could not read it any more.

I remember some of the results, but not well enough to document it here.

Wax was the best protector, followed by Shooter's Choice Rust Prevent.

Here is what I have in the way of oils:

WD 40
GUN SAV'R PROTECTOR
GUN SAV'R ARMOR-KOTE
SHOOTER'S CHOICE RUST PREVET
CASTROL SYTHETIC GUNLUBE
REM-OIL
PHILIPS SHOTGUN OIL
SHOOTER'S CHOICE FP-10
RIG # 7
BROWNING ULTRA FINE GUN OIL
SPORTS PAL
SLICK PAL
MARINE PAL
BROWNELL'S BEST PENETRATING OIL
ACCUPRO ACCUPROOF
WILSON COMBAT ULTIMA-LUBE
TETRA GUN OIL
BUTCH'S GUN OIL
CORROSIONX
DILLON SNAKE OIL
JOB WAFFENOIL
BOESHIELD T-9
BALLISTOL-KLEVER
CASTROL RUSTPROOF
KELLUBE M12
VFG OIL FELTS
DRI-SLIDE MULTI-PURPOSE LUBRICANT
VAPEN SERVETTE

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saeed@ emirates.net.ae

www.accuratereloading.com

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saeed@ emirates.net.ae

www.accuratereloading.com

I have the highest degree of respect for this forum and its core tenant. If I personally, were to enact some form of test, which I perceive on your part, I would attempt to identify an everyday lubricant with (s) specific viscosity against the harsh environment you have identified (which I suspect you are probably doing).

I am by no means an expert on this front - far from it. I am afraid however that you would be hard-placed to prove an overall solution, but perhaps only a previaling one to the conditions you have identified.

Hope that helps!

Best regards,
Alex

I wonder if Flitz metal polish would protect as well as the oils? Do you have Flitz you can try?

Sormi.

Z

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Good huntin' and shootin',
Bwanawannabe, Daktari Ron

We live very close to the sea, and we have very high humidity, which has a very high salt content. And a number of people always ask me what the best lube they should use to protect their firearms from getting rusty.

This test is supposed to show us which of these oils and lube are better at rust protection than the others that we have.

There is really nothing scientific about this test at all.

I think I have arrived at the same conclusion as yourself, that different metals might have different resistance to rust. That is why I have taken a discarded blued barrel off a factory rifle, and used it for our test.

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saeed@ emirates.net.ae

www.accuratereloading.com

Don't take your wife to the gun range after dabbing Hoppe's behind her ears. All the guys will be chasing her around the range!

May I offer a comment?

The test your are about to undertake is laudable, but, I question it's value in real life. Such test for rust protection have been done ad infinitum and published in magazines for as long as I can remember. You know, the salt water mist 24 hours a day for two weeks, etc. But is that what our guns are subjected to?

It is like testing expanding bullets in ordnance gel. An excellent comparative test *under those circumstances*. And we all know that many bullets that performed very well under those circumstances turned out to be poor performance in the real world. Ask any cop.

In the hunting world our guns will be subjected to temperatures varying from below freezing to over 100 F. They may be rained on one minute and dry the next. Then there is the dust cloud, or is it salt water spray? The metal will definitely be handled by dirty sweaty hands, and rubbed against clothing, vegetation etc. All of this is a far cry from the lab.

Have you considered throwing some monkey wrenches into the test to try to simulate some real life effects?

Until a miracle comes along, I'll stick with Rig. It hasn't let me down in over 40 years - and I have the spotless guns to prove it. Even the three Browning shotguns used extensively over salt water for many years are spotless.

Good luck with the test.

Steve

There are a lot more of us who want to see the results of your tests than the nay sayers.

Your method of testing is superior to Alex's ideas due to the fact that you are doing and he is only talking about it. If his ideas are better then he should get off his butt and prove it, otherwise all that talk is only theory and conjecture.

One request though I would like to see you include Break Free, it is the official oil used by all the armed forces in the U. S. and it is probably the most popular oil used by sportsmen and hunters here too.

Good Shooting,
Craftsman

quote:

---

Originally posted by Saeed:
Alex,

We live very close to the sea, and we have very high humidity, which has a very high salt content. <snip>...

---

Saeed,

Thanks for the heads up. Sounds as if we are in a similar scenario (I am probably within 45 minutes from any sea shore line).

I was concerned about a "silver bullet" approach becuase we typically deal with ferrous and non-ferrous metal combinations.

Secondly, as we all know, a penetrant oil's properties are typically much lower in viscosity and have the ornate ability to run off or evaporate.

I am very interested in knowing what you find out based upon your approach and brands you have depicted.

Thanks in advance!

Best regards,
Alex

quote:

---

Originally posted by Craftsman:
<snip>...Your method of testing is superior to Alex's ideas due to the fact that you are doing and he is only talking about it. If his ideas are better then he should get off his butt and prove it, otherwise all that talk is only theory and conjecture.

<snip>....

---

Hello Craftsman,

As Edgar Caycee used to say, let me sleep on it, so I did so. Over the last 20 years I've been too busy chasing after my career and taking care of family in favor of enjoying a dedicated hobby.

I joined this group because it has provided immense help on a number of fronts to help jump-start my efforts, and have even made a few new friends. This forum has a good number of participants outside of the core group and offers a broad range of topics. One of the primary elements that drew to this group was everyone stated their experiences and minds emphatically, but do not attack people on a personal level (unless of course they knew each other , as in any other group).

I was concerned that your remarks resembled a personal attack, so hopefully I am wrong about that. I would ask if it was a personal attack that you would change your tact and approach and not do so. There is an excellent site on Netiquette located at: http://www.albion.com/netiquette/corerules.html. The reason I make a motion on this front is to ensure that that integrity of the group does not change its momentum because now suddenly, little comments resembling personal attacks are okay.

In my original post on this thread, you will notice that I simply offered a personal observation, and offered a solution and consideration based on that observation. And this was only on the surface, because I did not even get involved at any great depth (per say).

I can tell you from personal experience that as a facilitator, a key element that will rapidly kill a group dynamic is personal attacks. The second key element is that no idea is a bad idea. Personal attacks of any type are highly unproductive and really resolve nothing in the end.

I trust that you will find what you seek.

Best regards,
Alex

[This message has been edited by Alex Szabo (edited 05-16-2001).]

Z

Basically, my test was supposed to simulate our own conditions here. We live about 300 yards from the sea, and most of the times we go out to shoot, it is generally by the sea.

Our biggest problem is gettign some salt water on our guns, and then not remembering to clean and oiling them immediately after coming back.

Generally, by next morning, wherever the some salt water has touch any part of the metal, it rusts.

Also, I get asked what oil I should recommend for long term storage for guns.

I do not think any of the oils under test here will be 100% rust proof, but it would be interesting to sea which ones protect the longer.

So far, I have checked 21 types, only for 2 days, and I will continue this for 1 week.

here are the results - the names will be published at the end of the test when every other one has been checked too.

These figures show - approximately - the percenage of the coverd area that has rust on it. First figure is after 24 hours, second is after 48 hours.

5 - 15
0 - 0
5 - 15
0 - 10
10 - 20
0 - 20
5 - 15
5 - 15
0 - 5
60 - 100
5 - 60
80 - 100
60 - 100
10 - 60
70 - 100
20 - 60
40 - 80
50 - 60
20 - 50
5 - 10
20 - 20

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saeed@ emirates.net.ae

www.accuratereloading.com

Any updates???

Pete

Pete

Just looked at your list of products and I do recognize about half of them. As Bill Leeper mentioned, I've found good old "RIG" grease to be pretty good stuff. But, it seems to work the best on Parkerizing for me. I coat all the metal parts with RIG and set it in the sun so the RIG gets pushed into the phosphate. I do it every year whether they need it or not. Once it gets up in the high 90degs, it goes real fast. And it is still avalable over here.

Also had pretty good luck with regular old car wax on blue steel for many years. However, it "does not" hold up against DEET which is in our current bug repellants. As you sweat while hunting and the DEET drips onto the rifle, it cuts through the car wax as if it wasn't there. Or at least that is what it did for me.

Good luck with your Testing.

------------------
Good hunting and clean 1-shot kills, Hot Core

I am afraid I do not have this particular oil. I am just using all the oils that I have.

May be another 2 weeks and we should have the test finished.

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saeed@ emirates.net.ae

www.accuratereloading.com

Ed's Red is a solvent, not a rust protector.

Don

First time I've heard of this stuff was on the cast bullet thread. I followed one of the
links:
http://www.prairienet.org/guns/use/edred.htm

and this version of the home brew seems to indicate it is a rust inhibitor as well as a cleaner. I 've sourced most of the components
but I just want to know if there is any reason not to use it in my Sako to remove
powder fouling or my .22lr to remove lead &
powder fouling.

regards,

Pete

[I already know that RIG works; when I stored guns untouched for a couple of years in a storage shed in Norfolk VA, I WD-40'd the inside to displace any existing H20 (there probably wasn't any), RIG'd the outside, and dropped in a plastic bag or saran wrap to protect the foam in the case. Two winters and summers later, no rust on anything.]

Z

quote:

---

Originally posted by Zero Drift:
4pwr - Welcome aboard. May I suggest decaffeinated coffee. Must have been a long Winter up North. Please share your knowledge/thoughts/experience/beliefs/conjectures on the subject of rust protection....

Z

---

I would be glad to share my rust preventive secret. Use any good oil and check your guns more than once in a blue moon. Actually I thought some of the posts were tongue in cheek and responded in kind. I think it is a good test and am intersted in the results. I will however pull a leg now and then.

This is sort of incomplete, but it may be of help for the long term storage.

A smith I once used had a spray can of a marine product that provided a finish on metal that seemed half grease and half plastic. It sticks like crazy. I wrote down the name but have lost it. Some day I'll get to a marine store. The can was pale blue. He would use it on the metal parts covered by the stock. It sprayed on like thin motor oil but quickly dried leaving a heavy coat of translucent brown finish that was not tacky and not real hard. The unexposed metal of my .375 have been finished with the one coat for four years now and the coating is still there and no rust at all. As I recall, most common solvents will remove it.

Good luck,
Steve

Common grease on the action/barrel hidden by the stock has worked for 2 years on my rifles without replenishment. They get wet, I dry them as best I can, oil the bits I can reach and put it away. The underside is protected - no rust after 2 years.

Bottom line?? Nothing worked as well for pure rust protection than plain ol' Vaseline or RIG gun grease. Read the article by Gun Test: they suspended stell panels below the high tide mark so each panel was immersed in salt water, then left to "dry" in the salt-laden air.

Rifle magazine did a similar test several years ago and Boeshield came out number one, even beating Rig and I know it's pretty good.
I think Brownells even started carrying Boeshield for that reason.

I have posted the results we have got so far. It is on the FAQs, and here is a direct link to it.

www.accuratereloading.com/rustest.html

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saeed@ emirates.net.ae

www.accuratereloading.com

I will be interrested in Your results SAeed...

------------------
Ray Atkinson

ray@atkinsonhunting.com
atkinsonhunting.com

The Rig #7 that we have is an oil, not a grease. I understand they make many types of oils and greases, though.

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saeed@ emirates.net.ae

www.accuratereloading.com

Just to make sure this country boy is following the test results correctly, the 100% figure equals totally covered in rust i.e the higher the figure the more the rust??

Pete