I just got done adjusting the trigger on a 300WM of mine but am having reservations about using superglue in the screws to hold them. Is this what is used or something else. Someone told me once that fingernail polish is used too. I just want it to hold but also would like to be able to get it apart again too. It looks like epoxy would work like the original stuff and not bond too tight but hold real well though.

Thanks.

BRENT,
I strongly suggest that you donot use superglue on your trigger. Superglue is very thin and apt to get into the working parts of the trigger. If it does, it's time to buy a new trigger. I've found the carpenter glue works fine. This is a case of a little bit goes a long way. A single bead the size of the screws works fine. Once I put the glus on, I lay the rifle on my bench in a horizontal position to keep the glue out of the trigger works. Good luck.

Finger nail polish works also.

Brent-

Take a Q-Tip with some alcohol, clean off any oil, etc on the screw "head" & front of the trigger around it, let it evaporate, and hit it with a dab of fingernail polish. I use some shade of red (whatever the wife has handy) to immediately identify a trigger that I've adjusted vs an untouched factory trigger.

I use red fingernail polish as well.

Thanks guys, That's what I was thinking would work best, the polish. I just wasn't sure how it would stick.

Brent,

or, go to a fly fishing shop and get a bottle of "head cement". This is the stuff they use when tying flies to keep them from coming apart while being beaten against trees and rocks. It is pretty tough stuff, it sticks like napalm, dries fast and works very well for trigger ajustment screw. Acetone will attack it if needed.

Malm

Degreased, polished and back together, thanks guys.

I try to stay away from red nail polish. I think it is too gaudy and makes me look cheap. I use a muted pink. It is much more refined.

Fast Ed

I went with this pearl glittery stuff my wife had, it's sexy but not too flashy.

Fast Ed,
Good call! This is a fine example of what sets this forum apart from many others...That touch of class! Regards, Bill.

My young girls insisted it had to have the "glitter" in it. They thuroughly instucted me on "how" it was to be applied, making fun the whole time too.

Brent,
Loc-Tite, This is what it is made for. It will flow even around those small screw threads, but not so far that you gunk up the action, and when finished, you can still flush the trigger with lighter fluid to clear any extra cleaning solvents that may be in there. The ligher fluid will attack the fingernail polish.

Also the ligher fluid is not pure solvent like acetone, it contains a little oil so will provide the slightest amount of lubrication. Uh, don't do this while smoking

By the way, Loc-tite "blue" will allow you to disassemble later, "red" will forever set your screw. If you go to an industrial supply, you may want to look into the "fine thread" solution, I don't know it's color designation, or if it is even made any more... works great on your scope mount screws too!

Safe Hunting

Clint-

I'd hesitate to use Loc-Tite only for the reason that the screw "head" slot is so small, I'm afraid that you'd strip it if putting any significant torque on it later.

I've never had a problem with solvent/lighter fluid/etc attacking the nail polish, due to it being on the outside of the housing, and running the fluid on the inside of the housing.

[ 12-14-2002, 18:14: Message edited by: Cold Bore ]

Cold Bore, I haven't experienced any problem with Loc-tite blue. It is much less of a "locking" agent than a "binding" agent. It makes something like a non abrasive grit that provides more of a "ny-loc" antivibration quality than a Loc-tite red "welding" effect. It doesn't break down and migrate until you try to loosen the screw. Residual material in the threads will usually provide a locking effect for one or two dissassemblies too.

Safe Hunting.

You gys can remove lok-tite by touching the screw head with a soldering iron to heat it up. It will return to a liquid state and can then be flushed with a solvent. That is the "blue" lok-tite of course.