My hunting pard has a case stuck, and bolt locked up closed on a 760 30-06. Because the bolt is closed the forearm hole that is used to unscrew the barrel assembly from the Receiver is covered up. I'm no willing to guess what to do so thought I would put a query out here for the experts including a reference for someone to ship it to for remediation. Thank you in advance!

How to open a stuck pump or semi auto; whilst pressing the slide lock, and grasping the slide or operating handle, slam the butt down on a padded piece of wood, vertically. The bolt will open. By intertia.

And if we indeed have a stuck case? Any concerns about the stock?
Thank you sir.

Put the barrel in a padded vise, remove the fire control and using big brass punch and hammer carefully drive the bolt shroud rearward without crushing or cracking the bolt shroud. It helps to have someone else pushing on the pump at the same time. Lots of times the shroud will not survive. They are getting hard to find for the 760 just for this reason.

Plastic bolt shroud and it's already broken. Another location to seat the brass punch? Going to go give dcpd's suggestion a try. Will let you know. Thank you sir.

DCPD's method moved something enough to have a tiny bit of slack in the pump but the bolt lugs have not unlocked yet. Going to take a break and wait for you Gentlemen's comments.
Thanks.

I guess Remington calls it a bolt carrier, not bolt shroud.


bolt carrier by Rod Henrickson, on Flickr

Yes, be careful with the stock; squirt some WD40 in it and try again; it will come out. Pull down on the pump handle while you are slamming down. We use this method in the Army to open M16 bolts, and it works on M1s too.
You do have to be more careful with commercial stocks but if you do it judiciously on wood block, it won't hurt.
The part Speer is talking about is the bolt carrier I think; remove the trigger group and you will see it; the bolt is in it. There will be a little gap to put the brass drift against. Numrich has them.

We were typing the same thing at the same time; that is very scary.

And I figured it out too. Will find a brass punch and give that a go. Thanks again.

A Barnes 220 brass 30 caliber solid was my punch and I used a little brass hammer. No damage to the carrier. Soaked her overnight, 3 times and the swelled head case came out. Haven't inspected more than that yet but it fed and extracted an empty just fine. The plastic port cover is broken. Are they necessary to retain the cam pin as some suggest they are?
Thanks again fellows.

The plastic cover is just cosmetic and to keep out dirt, leaves, twigs, etc.
But Brownells sells new ones for seven bucks so just get one anyway.

I slammed the action back and forth a few times and the cam pin indeed headed out of its hole. I should have done that before bothering you with the question. It appears to me the gun has been worked on before, marks on the receiver rails etc. it needs a real solid forward pump to lock up so I'm thinking a real gunsmith needs to look it over. What say you?

Probably, if it's one of the old originals with the goobery ball thingy on the front of the action tube assembly, the fore end nut has become slightly unscrewed and it's crashing into the action tube cap (the goobery ball thingy) and not allowing it to close. Or it's making it close hard. Try tightening the nut back up.

Thanks. We have to take it apart to install that darned piece of plastic ejection port cover so I'll look it over good and hope for the best. I might ask another question or two...
If that's ok.

I have a first year production 760 it has a nice metal ejection port cover.

I'm envious. Nobody makes one anymore.

There are two types of 760 forearm support tubes.

The first ones are a long one unit, with a ball type thingy pinned on the end with a groove in it, like Rod was talking about. They are the ones with the tube sticking out thru the front of the forearm. They came with a metal port cover

Yes check the forarm nut in the wood to make sure it is tight as it can come loose and bump the end. This will not allow the forearm to go far enough to lock the action.

Later when they came out with the Carbine version they went OHH we need to change. So you now have a two peice teleoscoping support tube. OK seems like a good thing BUT, to keep it from rattling they put a little O ring inside one end. This O ring can become brittle and break, and work out of its groove and then your action will become stiff as the O ring is not in the correct spot anymore. These are the ones that do not have a tube protruding from the front of the forearm. These are the ones you will see with a plastic port cover.

Over the years we had many of the later 760's come in the shop because of this O ring problem, and every one we would reblue we would remove it.

Just my 2 cents.

JW

This one has the older model tube. I'll take a look at the forearm screw when we take it apart to replace the Port cover. I would guess someone replaced the original metal one with plastic. Some complained about the metal one rattling, don't know as both I have been around had plastic. I found a used Steel one and ordered it. Owner is getting two plastic ones as the instructions say "some fitting required..." and a spare is cheap.
Thanks for all the help.