I've got a couple Dressel English grip caps to install. Nice product. They came with a 10-24 screw. a) do folks drill and tap the wood? b) install a threaded insert? c) any other methods used? Thanks, Ron

I would D&T the wood. It makes the screw fit so much better.

Jim

I usually drill a small pilot hole, about as small as the minor thread diameter, with a larger-dia relief for the first 1/8". Then I coat the threads with soap (same soap you use in the bathroom, just scrape the screw threads across the bar to accumulate lots of shavings) and turn the screw into the wood VERY CAREFULLY. It should take a lot of pressure so be careful to not let the blade slip and to use a blade size that completely fills the screw's slot. The soap acts as a lubricant and will allow the male screw threads to compress the wood and form female threads in it, and these threads are normally sturdy enough to permit repeated removals without wearing too much.

By the same token however, the all-too-common practice of slightly forcing the usual wood-screw threads in order to achieve slot alignment is Not A Good Thing here, it's too easy to strip the threads. That's why most makers will supply a screw head that's deeper than its recess in the cap, so that the smith can cut the bottom of the screw head instead of forcing the screw a little deeper.
HTH, regards, Joe

Which ever method you choose if you screw up you can always use epoxy in the screw hole being sure the screw slot is pointing North before it sets up.

I use a method similiar to J.D. but use teak oil as a lubricant. If I screw that up I know the epoxy will still stick. Yes, I've screwed up one or two.

Dressel's has two sizes of screws.

The large head, .375 OD has a 10 x 24 thread pitch.

However the small head .219 OD has a 7 x 24 thread pitch. Good luck in finding a tap in that size.

Both screws are made from LaSalle 1144, so it is not recommended to case harden them.
FYI, the same screws are used in McFarlands buttplates.

James Wisner
Custom Metalsmith

Thanks for the replies. Jim...I'm currently installing Dressel's standard size cap that uses the 10-24 thread pitch. Will be rust blued after the screw head is profiled. Would like to purchase an insert that can be permanently installed in the stock. Other methods are good as well however this is my preference...most likely have to make something up.

I pilot drill and tap every new screw hole. If I do not have a matching tap, I cut a longitudinal slot in the first few threads of the screw with a thin cut-off wheel or triangular file, making the screw self-tapping. Run in a few turns and back out to remove the chips just like tapping metal. Takes more time but eliminates the chance of splitting the stock.

rgg-7, I have made inserts for machine screws into wood using brass machine screws. Chuck in lathe, drill, tap, cut off, slot one end for screwdriver. Drill and tap hole in stock. Picked up the process years ago when I worked on aluminum engine blocks.

I forgot to mention that I too use a pilot bushing to ensure the holes are aligned correctly as both SDH and Mike Ryan suggested. I also do the same as Mike on the "tap screw".

Jim

i'm not a gunsmith, but have done enough stock work to know alittle and have 30 years of wood work under my belt, so my advice is worth just what you might value it, but here goes....
my method is to use a brass( or steel) insert that is epoxied into a counterbore. the main feature is that i drill the counterbore a bit larger and deeper than the insert and "bed" the insert and cap together by screwing the insert tightly to the cap, installing the assembly onto the grip. the larger counterbore ensures the cap will align with no problems and the epoxy will bed the cap and seal the endgrain nicely on the grip. make sure you use release agent on the bottom of the grip so that it will come off. a shallow counterbore in the back side of the grip will form an epoxy alignment dimple in the bedding so that the grip won't move around.