Go | New | Find | Notify | Tools | Reply |
one of us |
Rob, Depending on how it's bent (i.e. how close to the root), you may need to file/Dremel a rounded relief channel in your receiver, to allow the bolt to close fully. I would also e-mail the seller, and ask how it was bent -- was a heat sink and heat stop paste used -- to prevent annealing the third lug area and more importantly, the cocking cam notch. All Turks that I've seen had a guide rib on the bolt, but you might want to ask that too. Finally, one of the Turk models (the 1903 I believe) is an intermediate length Mauser, the bolt of which is NOT interchangeable with yours. Ask the seller to measure the length of the bolt and make sure it's the same as yours -- don't assume he/she knows anything about what they are selling. A better / safer option might be just buying a curved, not bent, handled bolt from somewhere like Springfield sporters or Century Arms. Hope that helps, | |||
|
<robsguns> |
Thank you for the info. its very much appreciated, Ryan ------------------ | ||
one of us |
Ryan, There is an excellent gunsmith in Rolla named Mark Harris. He runs Harris & Company Outfitters. His phone number is (573) 364-7724. His place is 3 miles east of the Forum Shopping center on County Rd 3130. The Forum Shopping center is on 10th St. | |||
|
one of us |
I would really caution you not to mess around with a Bolt that was not designed for your rifle. That's why Mausers were designed to have matching numbers right? Any half competent gunsmith can take your original 1908 bolt cut off the bolt handle and weld on a beautiful properly bent smoothly contoured new one. Brownells even sells fancy ones with checkered pannels. This should cost you about $50 bucks and you won't have any questions about headspace or subsequent fitting. You should not have to do any grinding on your action following the procedure I described. Hope this helps.-Rob | |||
|
<robsguns> |
Mr. Lyons, I wish I'd have known this 3 years ago when I first moved here, now I'll be leaving in 5 months, too little too late as they say. I may look him up about this bolt situation, thank you for pointing me to him. gunbuilder, thank you too for your info. I see you are from San Mateo, I'll be a neighbor soon, I'm coming to CA in August, to Camp Pendleton. ------------------ | ||
one of us |
Let's hear more about the gun -- is it in original military trim, or a sporter? Do you know if the straight handle bolt is original (I always thought they had curved handles like the Argentines)? I am working on a lightwieght short barrelled 7x57 / 1908 for deer next year. Todd | |||
|
<robsguns> |
The gun is original, in theory, the stock has been refinished, looks beautiful. The bolt is original as far as I know, there is not a serial number on it, I've never dug into how to find out if it is, without a serial number on it. Every number on it matches, including the stock. The bayonet doesnt match, not the cleaning rod either, but I like it just the same. The bluing is worn from the receiver, but other than that, its sweet. ------------------ | ||
<eldeguello> |
Over the years, I HAVE NOT FOUND Mauser bolts to be easily interchageable. Often, they don't work at all, and in the best cases, headspace is quite variable (this is to say, between examples of Mausers made in different countries, or different plants or in different years of manufacture). | ||
Powered by Social Strata |
Please Wait. Your request is being processed... |
Visit our on-line store for AR Memorabilia