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Again I was bored & needed a project. So, here's a little makeshift rig I built to test a theory of dipping a wood stock, similar in process to dipping a hand made fly rod section. The pressure from submersion having an advantage to forcing the finish into the pores was a thought and just having fun testing something made me do it. I started off buying a unmarked (mfgr) drive motor from an E___ seller that was advertised as having an rpm rating from 0-200 using the so-called rheostat (potentiometer) that was included. Not true. The rpms never got below about 80 rpm's and the potentiometer was actually tagged Harbor Freight. So, back it went. No sweat. Time to move on. Next came a New Old Stock Dayton drive motor with a gear reduction claiming 7 rpm's under load. Also found was a KB Electronics fireplace blower motor speed control that seemed suitable for the job. Both off E___. Cool. Now I can build the tank. Some cheapo drain pipe and scrap plywood and sealant went together easily including a short piece of the pipe that was split in half and dropped into the bottom of the tank to displace some of the volume about the fore end. A bit of heating with a heat gun and a woodworkers clamp left in place for 10 minutes while it cooled gave me the shape I need to allow the butt of the stock to fit. Now, the new motor, after adding some connectors for quick disconnecting if needed, the test seemed fine although the motor took a bit to turn and the solenoid type brake chattered at low speed. So, the brake tension spring had to go. Saw no need for the brake anyway. In the meantime a bracket using an electrical cover served the purpose without much fiddling including an extra hole to clear a bulge in the face of the gear case. A hole made into the end of the shaft served as a place to tie off lift cord and keep the spool washer in place. Ok. Almost ready. Oh darn. The motor won't turn. Even after few drops of Break Free on the exposed bushings, nothing. Time to turn in for the evening. Next day still nothing. Just a hum. Reversed the polarity and still, nada. Pulled the yoke and removed the brake lever followed by the star wheel and rotor and inspected the gear cuts on the end of the rotor shaft where it enters the gear case. Dry. Same deal where it rides on the bushings. OK. No problem. A thin film of red grease and a couple ounces of Break Free in the case and time to button it up. Nothing. Just a couple turns on the star wheel and voila! There she goes. Test stock, nearly filled pores using Tru Oil. Motor with 5/16 inch diameter shaft mounted to joist. Position of stock in tank. First retrieval using 1 gallon of Varithane plus one pint of mineral spirits. Seems a little too fast. Numerous issues including scuffing from the walls of the tank and several sizable runs and sags. Added a 1/8 inch shaft (common nail) to slow the retrieval down. After about 32 hours of curing the finish, it was lightly scuffed and read for another dip. FINAL RESULTS - semi-satisfactory. Just a couple faint - shallow runs. With some more tweaking this might work for a production operation with a faster-setting/higher quality dip.Possibly replacing the cord with a strap to avoid rotation of the stock. Well worth the 'play time'. Cost was 'bout $150-ish. Note: Ran out of release agent. So, the stock will need to be de-glazed at the checkering and inletted areas with some mineral spirits and a Q-tip and possibly some scraping here and there. Life itself is a gift. Live it up if you can. | ||
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how many gallons of finish? | |||
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1 gallon plus 1 pint mineral spirits. Life itself is a gift. Live it up if you can. | |||
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Update: Varithane is not recommended for stocks. Takes forever to dry. Thick parts turn to gum when sanded. Life itself is a gift. Live it up if you can. | |||
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