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One of Us |
Why would Ruger make such a poorly designed bolt for their Precision series rifles. I have a new 338 in my shop that became uncocked and out of alignment. It cocks on lift, after the customer fired his 18th ever shot from it. The bolt will not close unless it is cocked first. You cannot remove the bolt shroud unless it is cocked and you need a vise and tools to fix it. I don't see how it could be repaired in the field. If you were at the range or on a hunt. After researching it, it appears to happen quite often with the Magnum calibers. Very poor design. Im suggesting he return it to Ruger. What the hell were thinking. Rant over | ||
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Money. Comes down to saving pennies per rifle. | |||
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^^^^^^^ EXACTLY! Lots of cheaply made firearms being manufactured these days | |||
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Became uncocked? There is notch in the bolt that holds the cocking piece, thereby holding the bolt shroud in position. That is the way 99% of modern bolt actions work; so literally tens of millions of them out there designed like this. If you turn the bolt shroud, out of the rifle, it will unlock and you have to turn it back into position. Most of these modern rifles, and I mean designed after WW2, shoot better than any of the old ones you guys worship. It ain't 1940 any more. I have three Ruger Precisions; zero problems. BTW, the standard Ruger 77 operates the same way, and so does Remington and every one else. Except the Win 70 and 98 Mauser has a bolt sleeve lock. Bolt sleeve locks are only needed and used on three position safeties. Did the bolt become un cocked on it's own? Or did someone turn it. I just checked two of mine; they require quite a bit of force, turning the plastic bolt shroud/cocking piece assembly in order to un cock one, certainly mine would not uncock themselves. And on the RPR, the bolt sleeve is enclosed in the stock tube. I always go back to the operator; these Americans are largely spoiled and untrained on their equipment. Now, if your RPR magically uncocked itself, then yes, send it back to Ruger. Although I could fix it. Ruger RPR bolt/cocking piece/notch; just like about 100 million other riles out there. This is from a 338 Lapua. Shoots great.  | |||
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You do realize that the bolt shroud plug (yes it is all plastic) on the RPR is actually the firing pin removal tool and is very easy to use. Actually an innovative design. Watch this video. Your bolt contains an Allen wrench, and the rear cap is used to remove the firing pin. Note that the bolt has two cocking cams. One on each side, providing two detents in the bolt body to hold the cocking piece in place. I do not know how it could uncock itself. But it is easy to rotate back into place. https://www.google.com/search?...vid:CYvQ3YwZzT4,st:0  | |||
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Hmmm field stripping the antique and outdated design we untrained and spolied Ameicans worship actually does nolt reuire a tool for field disassembly. I quote "Every improvement to the system 98 is a step backward." | |||
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I have no doubt some decent ones exist but yes it became uncocked or out of position internally after he fired. Uncocked wasn't the correct term. Im aware how it operates and I cannot remove the shroud even with pulling back on the firing pin assembly and trying to rotate. It broke I believe. When I tried to research a fix to gain access I found this issue to be quite common with the magnum size action. It has to be sent back to Ruger or cut the shroud off. Thus my comment about Ruger in general. I do understand how to disassemble them I have before. However this one you can't because something happened inside that will not allow it to rotate and come apart. I have tried placing the tab in a vise and pulling it back under sping tension to rotate the shroud. It will only move 1/8 of an inch and will not rotate. I tried pushing a punch against it with the bolt head in soft jaws in a vise, same result. The only way I see to remove the shroud is cut it off. This one is aluminum and not plastic. Customer is sending it back to Ruger | |||
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DPCD the rifle is in a chassis which I personally hate and the shroud is almost like a buffer tube, when you open the bolt and bring it rearward the shroud goes into the stock. Very weird to me design. The shroud is almost 6 inches long and aluminum. Customer says its a brand new gun and it was the 18th round he ever fired in it. Its also a 338. | |||
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Quite common failure of the RPR is not something I have seen. The RPR design is straight line, and the bolt does go into the butt stock. Nothing wrong with that. Not everything is or can be, walnut and steel. I have two 6.5s that are the same design; no issues. As you can see in my picture, they are very easy to disassemble. What happened to yours, will forever be a mystery it seems. BTW, the long bolt shroud is removed by rotating it Clockwise, about 30 degrees. And DW, no, the system 98 is not perfect and is unsuited to many applications, and it is very expensive to produce. That is why there are many other designs made today which are cheaper to produced, are stiffer, have faster lock time, and are more accurate. New designs out produce the Mauser and Model 70 by many hundreds to one. You know all this. And I do have 200 Mausers so I am sort of familiar with them. | |||
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It's a race to the bottom.  | |||
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I get it DPCD. I know it is supposed to rotate but it won't. I messed with it a little more and think something is definitely broken. When I push it all the way forward there is no firing pin protrusion and now you can hear a rattle inside when you shake it. Im wondering if the spring inside is binding and not allowing it to rotate. I didn't dig deeper so I don't void the customers warranty. I just hate having a customer bring me something that could have been designed better and cheaper. Pipe dream I know  | |||
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Anything made by man is a product of failure Ruger is the the hunting best rifle out there today and even the pre 64 Win has had failures, The Mauser? well its perfect unless the wrong smith gets his hands on it  Ray Atkinson Atkinson Hunting Adventures 10 Ward Lane, Filer, Idaho, 83328 208-731-4120 rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com | |||
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While I don't quite understand the OP issue, I'm not a fan of the Ruger 77 since my buddy's 9.3×62 misfired the first three times I pulled the trigger. The problem there seemed to be a lack of oil on the mainspring, which looked a bit light compared with the 98 Mauser's. I've read since that Heath's Zimbabwe PH training report was not impressed with the reliability of either the push-feed or CRF versions - but can't recall why. This is all a great pity and a mystery to me considering the excellent reputation of the No.1 and their other products. | |||
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The RPR is nothing like the 77 in any design way. I have owned at least 8 model 77s; first one was the dog legged ones with they first came out; a 308. I fired a ton of 7.62 Nato ball and tracer out of that, when we went to the MG range. Don't tell anyone. Ok, not a ton. A hundred pounds at least. Only problem I ever saw was when people tried to shoot short ammo in them. It ain't the spring, it is ammo that has short headspace. Oil is not required on mainsprings, and in fact, you remove it in sub freezing hunts. Like here now, where it is 15 below. The real 15 below zero. I have three now; tang safety 257, tang safety 350 Rem mag, and a MK2 7mm rem mag. Zero issues, always with hand loaded ammo. Now, you might have had one with a less than standard FP protrusion, I suppose it's possible. | |||
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Still shooting tang safety's too. 30-06, 338 WM and 458 WM. bought them in the early 80's and they have never let me down. | |||
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