I have seen it done and done correctly I might add and I am not impressed.
IT IS PAINT.
To me it seems like a waste of money as I would not think you could do any internal parts due to tolerances.
IT IS PAINT.
I believe the one I saw felt a bit tacky which lends me to believe it would attract dust.
To me $40 or so plus blasting and labor seems alot more 'expensive' than $100 and ZERO labor.

-Spencer

You might peek at the spray/bake fininshes thread a little way down the page.

No, 300 degree Fahrenheit is no problem for steel.

If Gun Kote works similarly to Baking Lacquer, that is to say it looks crappy and chips off immediately.

I can say the Ruger 10/22 receiver, the one I did with the utmost care and attention to instruction and detail, turned out ugly. On top of that, the coating chipped around the scope mount bases as I tightened the screws.

Someone on the other thread mentioned Krylon spray paint as an alternative. I doubt spray paint could look any worse, and I don't think it would have chipped like that. As a bonus, spray paint lends itself to easy touch ups and clean up from operating surfaces where maybe you don't want it. It can also be sanded to a nice glossy finish that doesn't look like spray paint at all. Last time I checked, there was no law against spray painting your gun, so long as you're 18 and can buy spray paint .

H. C.

Properly applied Gun Kote does not chip!! you can file it, grind it, or sand blast it off but you can't chip it off!!!

I have used it on a couple of guns with good success. Get your setup where you can spray the coating immediately after blasting-don't wait an hour or two. If you have a spray setup that you can use the bulk (not the spray can) I suspect you'll have better luck getting an even coat. The spray can is difficult to control. Take care of runs, recoats AFTER drying, and BEFORE baking.

I tried it and it worked quite well, but I only tried it on small parts. Biggest trouble with doing a whole gun is finding an oven big enuf to hold it.

I used KG Gunkote on my 20 tactical (Rem 700 SA w/ Shilen #5 barrel) and have been happy with it. Very durable and no chipping, though it has worn off the barrel crown, there is a sharp edge there. You need to blast with 120 grit Al Oxide, which you can get from brownells. I used an airbrush and got a very nice finish. Had to make a wire hanger to fit the 26" barrel + action in the oven but it fit. For a working gun this is a nice finish.

Gun Kote actually works great and is a sturdy finish ... if you use a coarse enough blast preparation before the application.

On an AR-15 A2, the coating on the brass deflector has hot worn off after many rounds.

Ain't pretty, but works pretty well.

I no longer have their answer but when I asked CZ about temperatures their barrelled actions could take for applying finishes, the answer came back as less than the GunKote cure temperature. Perhaps they just wanted to be conservative or have liability concerns. Since it would appear that quite a few have used it must be safe for certain kinds of steel.

I use it, I love it, I won't be without it. It's on four of my guns and about to go on a fifth.

Russ

300 degrees will not hurt anything as long as you don't have any plastic parts.

Haven't used Gun Kote, but I have used Moly Coat very successufully and have two firearms in the shop now to be coated.

Gun must be blasted with Al Oxide and not glass bead for proper adhesion.

Mac at Mac's Restorations uses the stuff and he says the secret is in the surface prep. He gets in special blasting media and his shop is set up for very precise work. I'm hard on hunting rifles and after 100s of rounds and several hunts all are really good with only one rifle showing extra wear on the action sliding surfaces. It's a savage that had a rough surface finish to begin with and I suspect the new finish didn't get contact with perfectly clean steel due to the metal pits, etc.