I'm close to start inletting the Sunny-hill bottom metal for my 404 Jeffery. The back of the Sunny-hill bottom metal is about .052 smaller than the facotry bottom metal. And best I can tell my stock came off the machine patterned for factory bottom metal or close to it. In round number is looks to be about 1/16 gap on both sides.

So I have a pretty fair gap at the back, and Jeffe, don't even start on me, I have't touched it yet, it came that way .

Anyway, I have a nice piece of English with a good size gap at the back of the trigger gaurd. I would like to use this stock but no doubt will have to fill it. I have some of the wood from the blank that I can fill it with or I could try to match it with acraglass.

Not sure if I need to cut a piece and fill entire back of the stock where the TG goes or or just the sides. Not sure if I explained this correctly or not, but hope some will understand.

Comments please.

Gringo,
If it is 0.052" smaller then it should be half that on both sides. Right? When you inlet it if there is enough wood proud of the bottom metal, you can wet it and push it over to fill the gap at the top. 0.026 may be a bit too much but gaps in bottom metal intletting are common and that method is often used to eliminate them.

Gringo...

I was also going to mention the procedure that Chic posted.

Are the gaps in the rear tang area.....or the rear of the magazine box......or both?

GV

Chic, I thought about wetting it, but figured it was to large a gap, I should have stated that in my post. But I can give it a shot.

Hey Chic, where Ole Bill Soverns been, havent seen him online in a while. Figured he would jump in a ask me how my foot was from dropping that damn blank he sold me on my foot.

Grandview,

The gap is at the back from the back trigger gaurd screw, about 1/16 of an inch on each side of the trigger. The front screw seems to fit pretty good. I thought it was to large and long a gap to wet and move it over, its about 1 inch long gap or more on each side. If it was a small area I think I could move it over. I may inlet it tomorrow and take some pic and post.

You could also cut some wood from a hidden area and acraglass it in. Another way would be to shave many thin slivers of wood. Put some glass in the area behind the triggerguard (make sure the guard and screws are coated with a good release). Jam as many of those wood slivers as you can into that area. I have used this method for filling defects and it works pretty good.

Good luck!

Roger,

I have two large pieces of wood from the blank that I can use. I've got plendy of wood. The wood slivers would be easy enough, thought about that two, just never had one this bad before.

Billy,

If you have big pieces you could make a piece that would fit into the inletting (very closely). Glue that in then re-inlet the triggerguard.

The repair will almost disapper if you match the wood color and fit as closely as possible before glueing.

I'm not a stockmaker, but I do know you can take sanding dust from that particular blank and mix it in with clear epoxy to make a putty that matches the wood color very, very closely. I've done this for various woodworking projects.

Billy,
If you have 1/16 on both side it is too much to move. If the gap is at the rear also, it is very difficult to glue wood in with the end grain running across the small piece. What I would suggest is to cut a piece that fits the complete slot and then reinlet the bottom metal. It is far easier to glue in this way, the problem comes in finding the best wood match. Inletting that portion should then only take 20 minutes or so. Using glue and wood shavings is a good idea in some situations but unfortunately, along the inletting it ends up looking like it was glassed in.

Chic:

I misread the original post. I thought he said he had a 1/16" gap at the rear only. After I found out he had extra wood from the blank I replied with:

Quote:

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If you have big pieces you could make a piece that would fit into the inletting (very closely). Glue that in then re-inlet the triggerguard.

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