So.

Now that I've ensured an welcome reception, I guess it's about time to post some of my work.

LOL.

About last September, I began obsessing on custom rifles. I had owned a few old Mausers years ago--at the tail end of my marriage [need I say why?]--and been a member of the excellent local gun club, but was not even aware of the concept of a Custom Gun.

I began buying books, hey, they're cheap, and sometimes a good investment.. and haunting the net for rifle sites.

I was particularly interested in the history and tradition of this arcane subject.

I started off with two 1909 barreled actions. These were not perfect, replete with the now legendary "minor pitting below the woodline," but I was pleased at the time. Looking back, from the perspective of a not-to-be-expected success, I wish I had known then what qualifies a receiver to be a donor receiver.

This is project #1:



I guess it's obvious to everyone that it's an emulation of an early 20th century custom rifle.

As noted, it's a 1909 action. The stock is by GAGS, and although I spent a good day pondering as to whether or not to send it back--it has at least 10 pin knots--I decided to keep it. Overall, I'm glad I did.

The tung oil finish--not a tung oil varnish--brought out figure that I did not know was there.

It was a lot of work, and I removed a lot of wood to fit the Niedner butt plate and pistol grip cap.

(Now, of course, I know it's probably better to buy a blank and have a cutter shape it, and that's what I did on project #2.)

Using only files, I narrowed the triggerguard bow.

I pillar bedded the rear receiver tang, and glass bedded the front.

I had help fitting a Lothar Walther barrel.

I had help from the local welder (a girl, hey this is California) tigging in the serial number on the triggerguard, and some nasty pits on the bolt handle.

I had help drilling and tapping for the Lyman aperture sight. If you're thinking I like Lyman sights, your correct. I like the improved sight radius of the aperture sight, and I think that this fits in with my traditional model.

I sweated on the barrel band sling swivel, and the NECG front sight. The front band sight was problematic: I measured the muzzle, and ordered what I thought was the correct band, but found it didn't fit. I was reluctant to try stretching the band (as the instructions direct) and I didn't have an old barrel to bang to sight onto. I ended up with the next larger sight, which was generously large.

I was particularly worried that excess solder would show when I blued the barrel, but as you can see, it's relatively clean. You'd have to be up close to notice any excess solder.

And looking for it.



I am also very happy with the SLOW rust blue. I researched this pretty extensively, and found the Dunlop book, and Jim Baiar's instructions that accompany his Gun Goddess blue, very helpful.

I'm also pleased with my decision to bead blast the parts before bluing. My only local friend who had done this was aghast when I told him I was going to blast the parts, but the final finish is a very smooth satin, which reflects more the condition the parts were in before blasting that the actual blasting itself.

Most importantly, I believe the blasting prepares the metal for the blue. It was suggested that parts should be blued immediately after blasting, and I believe this is good advice.

Mainly, I'm a slob, but was also very careful to keep the parts surgically clean before and during the bluing.

Really, I think of SLOW rust bluing as alchemy: turning dross to gold. It amazes me. Who knew you could improve steel by rusting it, and then boiling it?

The only part I didn't blue was the NECG sight hood, which came blued. It's a reasonably good match, and don't think I'll change it.

I mounted a Timney Sportsman trigger, which was a drop-in, with the exception of removing wood from the stock.

There are, of course, a few things left to do: I'll remove the Niedner grip cap and butt plate and blue them to match. I need to blue the bolt stop/ejector.

The stock needs a couple of final coats of tung oil, and a good rub out to bring up the luster.

In the end, though, despite the fact that aesthetics are important, we all know that there is one objective criterion by which rifles are judged: accuracy.

This rifle groups.

flaco

N.B. She's very light, comes naturally to the shoulder, and puts my eye where I want it. I've also been told she kicks more than a Springfield. Even with my girly man 7x57 loads. LOL.

Finally, and at the risk of offending even more, I'd guess it's obvious where my respect lies: With those who are building rifles.

Some of the best are right here.

Since this is a "Gunsmithing" forum?

I have had the help of many, many generous people on this project, and for that I am truly grateful.

Very tastefully done Flaco. Simple yet elegant. Pretty good caliber too.

If this is your first effort, then I'd say you learn very well. Excellent, even if it isn't.

You put your reading and research to good use. You should be proud of the effort. You wouldn't get a camera near my first project.

I particularly like your decision on the open sights. My eyes aren't good enough to use them anymore........but I sure like the "period" look.

I believe you're ready to tackle checkering now.

GV

flaco,

I don’t believe your skill at building rifles was ever in question...only your “chip on the shoulder†reactions to opinions, that you did ask for I might add, in your original post.

Nice work on the rifle...now perhaps you might consider buying a copy of Dale Carnegy’s book...I know I have to reread my copy all the time!

Get someone to show you how to alter the top tang, it is relatively easy to do and improves the grip lines immensly.
SDH

Nice work on the rifles, and nice photography! Are you a professional photographer?

George

Well done sir! You have every right to be proud!