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Guys For several years now I have had "the urge" to build up a really nice .22. I have in mind square bridges, a slim barrel with banded foresite, sling swivel, 1/4 rib all hollowed out for light weight and a nice neat bottom metal set-up which hides the clip. All topped off with a lovely piece of walnut. Which action would my learned mates choose and why? GG | ||
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GG 375. CZ 452, or older # 3 thru 6 which uses the same single stage 70 Win style trigger. The 452 has narrower dovetails, I guess they are livable. A Mauser style and size guard bow with floor plate release lever continued into a strap cut out for the magazine can be added and the STEEL magazines can have a floorplate installed instead of the plasic or thin strip. You cut off the protruding release above the "strap" and utilise a link to the release in the bow. This is best done by adding a front receiver screw and a rear one with an added boss underside of receiver. To get the trigger back behind the bolt Knob the curved Yanker ought to be moved back by splicing a new one on to the shank of the factory unit moving the center of the pull back about 14 m/m. This means that the rear of the receiver will need about 5 m/m added because rear of a 6.35 m/m screw body comes out even with the present receiver termination. Because it is in the barrel thread area it is probably permissable to put a boss for the front screw acting as a locator block threaded for the front screw .Both of these can be silver brazed in place. The balance of your design is academic. Probably 1/2 of the 22's get done this way and as little brothers complete with Brit style dress parade leaf sights. M 52 wins can be done this way and were the top choice before there got to be enough CZ's out there The 1919, and A, and B are a bit complicated because of the damned trigger/ bolt stop, C and D are better, but you do the same outline of things from above and for the same reason, both need a bolt handle alteration and the best workable safety for the 52 is a tang safety, with linkage. I was not able to really get a Ruger style 3 position (receiver mounted) lever safety mock up that I liked for the 52. The Sportmodel, 1, and 2 use the double stage trigger also present in the PDR Chinese knock off. The Mauser Models similar to the trainer made for France Post WW II are probably a second choice, then the 52 3d choice. because of collectors the CZ would be cheapest entry. Cost is in the neighborhood of a similarly duded up '98 Mauser full custom rifle. takes about the same ammount of time to build. | |||
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The Dakota 22 has most of your requirements, I think they sell barreled actions. | |||
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To the best of my knowledge, the Dakota 22s have been discontinued. Best, Joe | |||
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Dakota has started offering the Dakota 22 again. If enough people sign up, they may even make a run of left-hand Dakota 22s. Check the website at www.dakotaarms.com Wayne E. [ 05-09-2003, 23:16: Message edited by: Big Dipper ] | |||
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Tom Many thanks for the time and effort that went into your answer. I understood the technical stuff but not sure about the rifle models you spoke of as ours may be different in Aussie land. Over here we have Brno mod 1, 2 and the newer CZ line of 452's. My Dad gave me his old (1952) mod 1 and I had originally thought to use its action. I think from what you are saying the mod 1 trigger is less desirable than the newer 452's?? The only trouble with the Brno is I want to do away with the receiver dove tails in favour of square bridges and Tally lever mounts or better still I have a set of your beautiful Brno detachable mounts (low height) that I bought off D'arcy Echols a few years ago. To my eye, square bridges look better done on a round receiver rather than what I would have if I ground the dove tails off the Brno. Do you follow my thinking? Mod 52's are as rare as you know what in Australia. Can .22 receiver's be welded - ie square bridges welded on or do the same limitations apply as for centrefire actions? fla3006, nextjoe and Big Dipper - Thanks - I will chase up dakota as it may be an option although very expensive. Also the new Kimber .22 might be worth considering. GG | |||
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One of Us |
GG375, you could weld on the action of a 22 rimfire. It does change the metallurgy and you have to be careful not to warp the action. The rimfire does not produce the pressure to make it erupt. I saw a Winchester 63, that the late John Hackley had square bridged by tig welding and running water through the barrel to keep it cool. Slow process but it works. Most smiths won't do it on a center fire for fear of having a major disaster on their hands. Might I suggest the Ruger #1. I have seen an article on a great little rifle that a very gifted farmer built himself. There a number of ways to change the center fire aspects to a rimfire. If I can find the article again I will give you a shout. You could just win the ACGG #19 rifle. It is an extensively modified rifle but for the life of me I can't remember the source of the action. Tons of money in this one though. ACGG #19 The Ultimate .22 [ 05-10-2003, 17:37: Message edited by: Customstox ] | |||
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GG 375, Hell's Bells man, The next jump beyond attempting to convert the receiver to what you want to make of it would be to make a new receiver. Use the residue of the #1 to fit. The bolt was made to be about same as Mauser bolt diameter,least wise the bore of the receiver is.710' to .711, a Reaming job. Make the barrel threads what ever you want but Imperial 20 TPI is close to the Metric, though odd diameter for that pitch., Make it longer so that no Pasting on of recoil block simulator is needed for front screw, nor a boss for the rear screw is necessary. M -3 thru six seem to be European renditions, some in training rifle for Military configurations. The firing pin modification is a light touch to make an angle release for the 70 W style trigger mechanism. I've danced around the above idea for almost 40 years, but since it is a smaller caliber the narrower dovetails seemed more appropriate. You will almost of necessity need an extension style front ring, or make the front base on the barrel. So far I am not overly pleased with what I made up in a Leupold style ring with 2 extensions to the lever release and clamps which are same as big brother. Done correctly for the purpose the design would incorporate 2 rings. A std. look alike to what you have and an extension front for the Hornet/ 223 as CZ now makes, and 2 extensions for those made like what you have in your Mod 1 (same dovetail) European Diopter rear irons can fit the older dovetail. Same dream, just one l o o o ng airplane trip apart. Cheers! | |||
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<JBelk> |
GG375-- I just posted some magazine scans of the #9 ACGG rifle HERE . In reference to the No.9 rifle.----- It started life as a M-1922 and that came to a halt about 1962 when it was cut in half by a goverment cutting torch and thrown into a gondola car full of equally destroyed M-1s, M-1 Carbines, M-3 Greaseguns, BARs, 1917 Light machineguns and squashed M-1911A-1s. I paid fifty cents a pound for ten pounds of scrap iron (all I had or could raise in a time when fifty cents allowed my Cushman Eagle to run a week.) The action was shortened, square bridged, M-98 bolt stop installed, tang reshaped, three position PME safety, bottom metal from scratch, trigger made from scratch, and the barrel with intergral quarter rib, banded sling mount and front sight cut from a two inch diameter Douglas XX. It was stocked by Maurice Ottmar and engraved by Eric Gold. The fitted oak and leather case is a Huey. Rust blue by Ottmar and French Gray by Eric Gold. The gun was actually finished after the photography was done. | ||
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