I have a Ruger #1 in .300 WM. Is it possible to have it re-barreled in 6.5 x 47 Lapua without doing much with the action?

Well you need all the internal parts that are different on a 30-06 based case than a 300 H&H based case.

Beyond that it's pretty much easy.

A couple barrel companies do them. Give them a call.

Thanks. I wonder how much those internal parts will cost?

Not really true; there are no internal parts unique to any caliber on #1s, and even the extractors are very forgiving and universal; I converted a .225 to a 375 H&H and didn't replace anything, So, it will be very easy to do what you want. No mods at all to the action and worst case, new extractor; but it will probably work. they are spring loaded and fit a variety of cartridges. Not like a bolt action.

Looks like a #1 ejector is $10.
http://www.brownells.com/rifle...el_1=Ruger__Noxzzx+1

They are caliber specific

Mark

Wow! That is really good news. Thanks a lot for the info.

Like I said; I have used these for cartridges different from what it came in and the extractor worked fine so you might not need one. They are spring loaded and move side to side to snap over the rim.

Damn gunsmiths, saving the world, one internet idiot at a time.

I didn't know how to put into words the exacting details, just knew there wasn't much to it.

Thanks for keeping me honest.

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
Not really true; there are no internal parts unique to any caliber on #1s, and even the extractors are very forgiving and universal; I converted a .225 to a 375 H&H and didn't replace anything, So, it will be very easy to do what you want. No mods at all to the action and worst case, new extractor; but it will probably work. they are spring loaded and fit a variety of cartridges. Not like a bolt action.

Hope you don't discover that I make this stuff up as I go along. So far, so good.

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
Hope you don't discover that I make this stuff up as I go along. So far, so good.

You fooled another one didn't you! Great work.

I was just wondering how easy is it to mount the scope base? Is it difficult to match the base to the new barrel and do I have to buy a particular contour to get it to fit? I'd like to use the original base and find if I can.

Well, funny you should ask; I have a customers #1 223 and a new Bartlein blank he bought; I told him I would have to contour his blank to exactly the same as the original Ruger barrel in order for the quarter rib to fit right. He was surprised. Is it difficult?; not if you have a lathe. You can also try to fit the rib to the new barrel; Since the rib only touches in two places, it is not that hard to do it either way. As far as buying a particular contour; well, there ain't any so you will have to make it. Also, remember that the barrel shank is limited in OD by the forearm hanger; That is gunsmithing.

I'm no gunsmith so it all sounds complicated to me. But I have a pretty good gunsmith that I trust. He probably knows exactly what you're talking about. It's good to know that it's do-able. Thanks for your help.

No, it is not complicated at all; child's play for any journeyman machinist. Maybe a little gunsmithing involved but nothing above basic barrel fitting involving an extractor cut. Rib installation is drilling and tapping. Front sights are just held on with a set screw. Sling swivel; same.
It is a lot more work than a Mauser, for example.

We all know that dpcd never tells his customers this, because he wants to make a couple hundred bux custom contouring the barrels to Rugers fun and funky dimensions. But I figured it was time that someone busted him and let it be known that Dan Lilja will custom contour barrels to just about every known, and some unknown factory standards for next-to-nuttin when you order a barrel from him.

Solly Bud. he he he he

That is not an option for my customers who prefer cut rifled barrels. Which this one does.
But for those who want his barrels, then yes, he does contour them to Ruger #1 dimensions.

quote:

Originally posted by speerchucker30x378:
We all know that dpcd never tells his customers this, because he wants to make a couple hundred bux custom contouring the barrels to Rugers fun and funky dimensions. But I figured it was time that someone busted him and let it be known that Dan Lilja will custom contour barrels to just about every known, and some unknown factory standards for next-to-nuttin when you order a barrel from him.



Solly Bud. he he he he

So will Krieger for a cut rifle barrel.

So will McGowan. Doesn't matter though. dpcd describes the necessity of matching the contour to the rib and he is not incorrect in this. It should be pointed out that this is a bit of an issue with any rifle which mounts the scope wholly or partly on the barrel. Regards, Bill.

Possibly I was just reinforcing my hatred for turning down barrels. Or the fact that I'm unusually lazy !

Didn't we do away with cut rifling back in the 70s when we finally figured out that buttoning was a better system ? he he he he

Turning down barrels is fun.
I do what customers want; if they want a smooth bore rifle barrel, and if I can't talk them out of it, that is what they get. True, the customer is usually wrong, but he is also paying for it.
An UPDATE; I removed the rib from the one I am working on now; two of the screws would not budge; so I drilled the heads off. No problems; they are easy to get. BUT, the rib popped off like a spring (which it is) the rib was warped .029 like a banana. They are hardened, and most I have seen are not flat, until they are screwed onto the barrel. I guess the assemblers are used to it. Just don't be surprised by what you find.

Yeah, those ribs can sometimes be pretty twisted up.

Next time I buy a bigger machine I'm going to make another air steady. I had one for my Taiwanese machine but sold it to a friend with the intent of making another. I had helped VanOwen make one some years hack and we used 3, 40 mm Bore x 150 mm Stroke Pneumatic Tie Rod Cylinders with 16mm piston rods. The one I had only used 8mm shafts and the 16mm model we made worked much better. With a full flood of water and carbide he could take .050 inch cuts with no chatter or warpage. This system also allowed cutting with an offset tailstock which eliminated the need to double cut the barrel using a conventional taper turning attachment. Still not as good as a hydraulic steady, but those things are a few thousand bux that I'm not willing to spend just to turn the odd barrel.

My lathe taper setups are somewhat less sophisticated, but still effective.

Right now I'm just tying a big lead block over the tool post and resting on the barrel dpcd. But I have to use HSS tools and I have to keep my cuts pretty light. A follow rest makes life and barrel turning much less traumatic. The problem is that my current machines don't have enough swing for a bigger air steady. I'm not going to bother making another lightweight one just to end up giving it away and making another when I get a bigger machine. I don't turn many barrels anyway.