I have an older Ruger with tang safety that has been rebarreled with a "varmint taper" Hart barrel.

I am using an original Ruger wood "sporter" stock and want to know the proper sequence to torque the stock bolts.

Also how about the amount of torque to apply?

TIA,
$bob$

I used 36 inch-pounds, front and rear, and it improved my groups on a pencil-thin barrelled M77 RL .270. It now shoots around an inch and a quarter for three shots with factory loads.

As for screw sequence, I can't say it'll work for everyone or for every rifle, but for the Ruger I alternated the tightening. I started with the front, angled, screw to snug it where I wanted it. (Can't recall what the snugging level was, but say 18 in-lbs.) I then snugged the rear to about the same level. Then I finished the front, then the rear.

I don't alternate with my M70 Classic, FWIW.

Jaywalker

I've had good luck with Rugers and my method of tightening , but don't have any measurement of the tourqe used .

I first loosen all three screws . Then I tighten hell out of the front angled screw , about as tight as you can get it with a good fitting screwdriver. This pulls the angled lug back and down firmly into the bedding like it was desiqned to do . I then tighten the rear screw , good and snug , but don't bury it like the front. This keeps most of the tourqe on the front ,again to keep that lug pulled firmly into the bedding . Lastly , just barely snug the middle screw enough to get the floorplate to latch properly . You want very little to no tourqe on that middle screw .

sdgunslinger gave the sequence I also use. This technique works for me on 5 different 77's and all shoot groups better than I can hold with quality handloads.

Thanks Guys... That's what I needed.... Appreciate it...

$bob$