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I have a Gentry 3 position safety that I will be installing on a Kodiak K98. Would one of you fine gents please post a picture of an altered cocking piece. I have struck out finding pictures of one on the net. Thanks “I am an American; free born and free bred, where I acknowledge no man as my superior, except for his own worth, or as my inferior, except for his own demerit.” Theodore Roosevelt (1858 – 1919) | ||
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I've never done a Gentry one but all, repeat all, of the others I've done included an instruction sheet with shaping details and dimensions. This obviously leads to the question, did Gentry include such a sheet or did you acquire a used part? The reason I ask is so I can get a better idea of Gentry's quality. I can show a pic of several done for other brands of sleeves but not a Gentry. Probably much the same, but.... Regards, Joe __________________________ You can lead a human to logic but you can't make him think. NRA Life since 1976. God bless America! | |||
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J.D. Thanks for the reply. Yes the instructions were included with the new parts and I have read them many times. I have several cocking pieces that have been practice. I have come very close to a proper fit but I think I am removing too much material. I do not have a mill so files, stones and a Dremel tool are it. This project may be more than I can handle but before I hand it to a smith I need to try a little more. Thanks “I am an American; free born and free bred, where I acknowledge no man as my superior, except for his own worth, or as my inferior, except for his own demerit.” Theodore Roosevelt (1858 – 1919) | |||
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Dick, I feel your pain! I've hosed up more than one cocking piece while trying to fit it, always by removing more metal than necessary. It's been largely a cut-&-try learning experience for me over the last few decades since many rifles have a considerable tolerance spread. Machinist's layout dye helps tremendously, as does patience, some good polishing stones, and a lighter mainspring for use while cutting-&-trying and (later) while lapping the sleeve & cocking cams. You can always weld up the too-small cocking piece & re-heat-treat, or else cut back one of the sear surfaces to allow more-forward positioning. Like Paul Simon said in the song, "There are fifty ways..."(G) Regards, Joe __________________________ You can lead a human to logic but you can't make him think. NRA Life since 1976. God bless America! | |||
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This may be helpful. When I have to alter the cocking piece, the angle for the lever so it will cam back, I take a little off and put it all back together. I then take a dial caliper and, using the depth gauge portion, measure the distance the cocking piece sticks out when cocked and then when in the firing position. The difference it close to how much additional needs to be removed from the cocking piece cam surface. I usually allow about .015" max. Now, if you end up taking too much off, you need to remove a small amount off the face of the sear on the bottom of the cocking piece. Hope that helps. Jim Kobe 10841 Oxborough Ave So Bloomington MN 55437 952.884.6031 Professional member American Cusom Gunmakers Guild | |||
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I've always just cut the angle until I got a good smooth action and then just cut cut the sear ledge to reset the enguagement. Then reharden the whole thing. I never had any luck cutting the angle into spec and get a smooth operation. I don't think I'd want to do one without a mill though, I'd be scared I screw up my sear angles unless I had some sort of stoning jig. Don | |||
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I cut mine in the surface grinder. Jim Kobe 10841 Oxborough Ave So Bloomington MN 55437 952.884.6031 Professional member American Cusom Gunmakers Guild | |||
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I cut mine in my bread slicer! Maintaining the proper angle is key. Trying to do that with hand tools can be a bear. Although, I'm always amazed at how many folks simply freehand the safety notch. No wonder the bolt will open halfway when the safety is enaged.  Aut vincere aut mori | |||
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I use the Bridgeport and carbide cutters...a little at a time. John Farner If you haven't, please join the NRA! | |||
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I have always found it safest to keep files, carbide, cutters and other sharp objects away from my cock ing piece Mike Never under estimate the internet community's ability to reply to your post with their personal rant about their tangentially related, single occurrence issue.  What I have learned on AR, since 2001: 1. The proper answer to: Where is the best place in town to get a steak dinner? is…You should go to Mel's Diner and get the fried chicken. 2. Big game animals can tell the difference between .015 of an inch in diameter, 15 grains of bullet weight, and 150 fps. 3. There is a difference in the performance of two identical projectiles launched at the same velocity if they came from different cartridges. 4. While a double rifle is the perfect DGR, every 375HH bolt gun needs to be modified to carry at least 5 down. 5. While a floor plate and detachable box magazine both use a mechanical latch, only the floor plate latch is reliable. Disregard the fact that every modern military rifle uses a detachable box magazine. 6. The Remington 700 is unreliable regardless of the fact it is the basis of the USMC M40 sniper rifle for 40+ years with no changes to the receiver or extractor and is the choice of more military and law enforcement sniper units than any other rifle. 7. PF actions are not suitable for a DGR and it is irrelevant that the M1, M14, M16, & AK47 which were designed for hunting men that can shoot back are all PF actions. 8. 95 deg F in Africa is different than 95 deg F in TX or CA and that is why you must worry about ammunition temperature in Africa (even though most safaris take place in winter) but not in TX or in CA. 9. The size of a ding in a gun's finish doesn't matter, what matters is whether it’s a safe ding or not. 10. 1 in a row is a trend, 2 in a row is statistically significant, and 3 in a row is an irrefutable fact. 11. Never buy a WSM or RCM cartridge for a safari rifle or your go to rifle in the USA because if they lose your ammo you can't find replacement ammo but don't worry 280 Rem, 338-06, 35 Whelen, and all Weatherby cartridges abound in Africa and back country stores. 12. A well hit animal can run 75 yds. in the open and suddenly drop with no initial blood trail, but the one I shot from 200 yds. away that ran 10 yds. and disappeared into a thicket and was not found was lost because the bullet penciled thru. I am 100% certain of this even though I have no physical evidence. 13. A 300 Win Mag is a 500 yard elk cartridge but a 308 Win is not a 300 yard elk cartridge even though the same bullet is travelling at the same velocity at those respective distances. | |||
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I've done more than 6 but less than 10, all with hand tools and all are snug when the safety is engaged. Had to recut one cocking piece's sear surface and another one had to be used with another brand of bolt sleeve, but all eventually worked well with no slack. All it takes is patience and expertise. Many smiths seem to rely totally on their machinery when often the hand tools are both faster and less problematical. I don't possess a mill or even a powered buffing wheel but somehow still manage to get the work done properly (G). Gunsmithing ain't rocket science and it certainly doesn't require a shop full of big machines to do it, but it DOES require some care and expertise. Sometimes, regrettably, we tend to think that the use of machinery with its resulting fine & smooth surface finish will make up for any lack of expertise on the smith's part. IMO that simply isn't true, the machinery's smooth surface finish just makes the smith's FUBAR look a little neater and less like a FUBAR. Regards, Joe __________________________ You can lead a human to logic but you can't make him think. NRA Life since 1976. God bless America! | |||
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I'm not saying you HAVE to use a machine. If you can do it with hand tools great. My point was that so many of the parts that I've seen done by hand should never have been given back to the customer. No matter what you use to do the work, the end product should work PROPERLY. Aut vincere aut mori | |||
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What I learned: AR talks about Mausers, a real man's rifle, but then worries about the rifle's appearance. Someone makes an $80 book of tooling drawings on CAD with construction lines the same width as dimension lines withe no dimensions shown, and contributors are too phony to complain. Sniper's hide talks about Rem700, a real pussy of a rifle, and then spray paints them. They need scope mounts attached with 8-40 screws, because 6-48 is not strong enough. They need scope rings with a 1/2" nut for clamping and 6 screws to hold on the cap. That on a rifle with the bolt handle soldered on. | |||
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