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Inletting swivel bases
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I'm still in the pattern-making stage so I'm getting ahead of myself, but I was hoping someone could give me a quick rundown on how you cut the small oval mortises for the fancy 2-screw "super grade" sling swivel bases.

Absent advice I'm liable to crank my Dremmel tool up to max speed and......
 
Posts: 324 | Registered: 15 October 2003Reply With Quote
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Belaw,

DON'T DO IT. i tried the dremel thing on a stock of mine, luckily the inletting was already poor so I couldn't make much worse. although I got it to sit totally flush, I had one spot on one side where the dremel got "aggressive" and there was a tiny gap between wood and metal.

that stock is going bye bye when it returns (sent it with the rifle for work) so won't matter, but good lesson. Dremels should only be used for ROUGH work.

Red
 
Posts: 4740 | Location: Fresno, CA | Registered: 21 March 2003Reply With Quote
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Belaw -- While shoping at one of my favorite stores --Harbor Freight-- I came across some forstner bits 7pc. titanium 1/4" thru 1" on sale, not knowing what to do with them I bought them anyway just in case! Well I was presented with the same problem you have and as luck would have it the 1/4" bit is the right dia. for Dakota sling bases. Set the stock up in your drill press with the dimension of the center of the 2 holes, and carefully cut out the wood between the 2 holes with a small gouge.
 
Posts: 63 | Location: Fla. | Registered: 27 May 2003Reply With Quote
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Inlet them just like you do the rest of the action with inletting black etc., just use smaller tools........DJ
 
Posts: 3976 | Location: Oklahoma,USA | Registered: 27 February 2004Reply With Quote
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Find the Gun Digest Book of Riflesmithing, by Mitchell (Jack, I think). There is a chapter on just this task, with good pictures and some excellent tips.
 
Posts: 1366 | Location: Houston, TX | Registered: 10 February 2003Reply With Quote
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Depending on which bases you get, you'll need to check the width of the bases.
Then, get a router bit the same width or a couple thousandth's smaller, and build a jig so it cuts just a big enough hole to drop the bases into. Practice on some scrap wood until the jig is just the right size, then build a "bridge" to set the router jig over the stock with the final dimensions cut, and carefully rout out the mortises for the bases. Adjust depth carefully as you go and they'll look like a pro did it. Let us know how it comes out- Sheister
 
Posts: 385 | Location: Hillsboro, Oregon | Registered: 22 May 2002Reply With Quote
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I install them after the stock is completely finished. Why? 'cause it's easier to finish the stock without them. How? With hand tools, chisels, just like the rest of it. It takes a couple of hours. Nothing good is very easy.

And forget those stupid pedistals around them, they just break up otherwise clean lines.
 
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Okay, I hope everyone realizes that I was joking about the Dremmel tool, but it does point to what has me scratching my head: what tool do I use to cut that small mortise?
 
Posts: 324 | Registered: 15 October 2003Reply With Quote
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Belaw,
When you inlet those you will find they are built with a slight draft (taper) to the sides. Don't go overboard when you inlet and make it fit tight at the top.
 
Posts: 4917 | Location: Wenatchee, WA, USA | Registered: 17 December 2001Reply With Quote
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The two worst enemies of guns, Rust and Dremmels.
 
Posts: 4739 | Location: London England | Registered: 11 May 2003Reply With Quote
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I mark the holes and drill them..Lay the base on the stock (center line) and screw it in...then mark around it with a fine scribe. remove the swivels and chuck the stock up in a mill and cut an under size cut inside the marked lines...The swivels should have some draft to them, so black them and start inletting, tapping very lightly as you go until you get a nice snug fit then go a little deep..Now put a thin shim of glass bed in the cut and screw holes, grease the swivels and screws and pull them down to flush with the wood, let cure a few days...when you work them out you will have the cut and screw holes with a thin glass job (lineing) that will keep things tight and oil proof from now on...This last step is not necessary but is a nice finishing touch IMO..
 
Posts: 42158 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000Reply With Quote
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