I want to build a rifle off a mauser action, but I have some questions for the experts before I start. First off is the swedish a good action to start with? Also I'm wanting to build it in either 25-284 win or 257 Weatherby mag, third choice would be the 6.5 STW. Would the bolt face in the swedish mauser fit these calibers?? What about the mag lenth? Also is there any other actions I should be looking at? I want to stay with the controled round feed like the pre 64 win w/o having to pay 600+$'s for the action. Would also like recommondations on barrel brands ect... Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Posts: 439 | Location: USA | Registered: 01 December 2003
There is a pressure issue with the m96/small ring action. IMHO if the swede barrel is in good shape consider sporterizing in the 6.5x55 caliber. If you really need to rebarrel that action I would go with something like the 7x57 or 308 size case.
Posts: 281 | Location: MN | Registered: 27 May 2001
for the calibers you are considering, I would definitely stick with later model large ring mauser actions (such as the FN or 1935 Brazilian or VZ24)as the pressures from the cartridges you mention are on the high side as compared to the pressures that the military actions were designed for, which are of course the 7 and 8 mm mausers. That is not to say that you could not use an earlier action like a 1909 Argentine, which is a very fine action indeed, but repeated firings by high pressure cartriges in that action have (rarely)caused lug setback (I know from personal experience) so to avoid that you would probably need to have the action recasehardened.
All in all, if you really want to stick to a mauser type action for your Rifle and you don't want to pay to have a military action dolled up by a good smith, try a Mark X action from interarms. The require little cleaning up and can be made into a real nice custom rifle (my brother has one custom stocked in 7mm Mag that is very nice). The only thing is that you might want to spend a few bucks to get rid of the side safety and trigger that comes with it. A timney or a Blackburn will work well for the Trigger, and a fellow that frequents these boards by the name of Jim Wisner makes a beautiful 3 position safety that will work on them (I have owned one and they are very nice). then its just a matter of picking your smith to chamber your barrel and then picking a stock. For barrels, you have to determine what type of accuracy you want. if this is a hunting Rifle, you probably are not going to want to spend the money it takes to get sub minute of angle accuracy (and an expensive cut rifled barrel is not the sole guarentee of accuracy). So a Douglas XX or a regular Shilen should do just fine.
Good luck. Whatever you use, please come back after you are done and show us photos of it.
What about the Mauser 98K's the Mitchells is selling?? Says they were made in 1943. Are these good platforms or are they to "collector grade" Also does Interarms have a website or information that you can look at? I'm looking to make it into a long range tack driver not just a hunting rig, would the Douglas AG work for this or is there a better option out there. Thanks
Posts: 439 | Location: USA | Registered: 01 December 2003
I'm not familiar with the company's that sell these type of actions. Is there anyone in particular that I should go to, (websites ect...) To take a look at these actions. Is the VZ-24 as good as the Mark X M98? The $75 sounds good as long as it is good quality. Thanks again and sorry for all the questions, I'm what your would call a Mauser newbie.
Posts: 439 | Location: USA | Registered: 01 December 2003
Any military action is going to require hundreds of dollars in gunsmithing to bring it up to par with even mid-level quality modern hunting rifles. Ad 2-450 bucks for re-barreling and you could've bought a damn nice rifle right off the shelf that'll fetch more money used than your "custom" mauser will. Custom guns built on military actions don't bring spit on the used gun market unless a big name smith built the gun from the ground up and even then, you're gonna lose your butt when you decide to sell it.
I find most people talking about building these do so thinking they can get a high quality, accurate rifle "cheap".
It ain't happening.
I've seen too many guys bury between $1000 and $2000 bucks in these things only to find that they don't shoot as well as guns costing half as much... and the dealer wants to give em $300 or less when they go to trade them back in...
Steve, you've missed one giant point. That is, if you build a Mauser, YOU get to build the Mauser. I started a couple of years ago, built a .338-06 on a 1942 Model 98 with Shilen barrel, Timney trigger, GAG (yes, gag) stock, Beuhler type safety and have at least $1250 in it. No, I couldn't sell it for that, and NO I wouldn't if I could. It will group 210g Nosler Partitions inside an inch all day long. I've got a 1909 Argentine in the works that will have even more invested in it by the time I'm done. But it's not leaving the family. So, what's my point? There's more to the value of a gun than what dollars you've got in it or what you could sell it for. I have gotten unmeasureable enjoyment "rolling my own". So, go for it, Bearcat, but don't be surprised if you end up with more than one....
MKane160 aka BigDogMK
P.S.: Regardless of what has happened, thank you, Jack Belk for planting a seed......
Posts: 488 | Location: TN | Registered: 03 January 2004
Very very well said. If one has as a purpose to make money having a custom gun built they will not succeed. But there is considerable pride of ownership and the satisfaction of knowing one helped to plan the firearm and pick out the components.
I would say that nobody usually makes money on the cars they buy and drive either but that doesn't stop them from buying and using cars.