A question for Ray A. and others here that are pros at carving rifle stocks. When you first start inleting a stock, do you do the rough inletting on a mill or do you do it all by hand?
Thanks
Ray

On a vertical mill. Actually, there isn't alot of hand work left to do when I am finished with the mill just final fitting really. I only do flat bottom receivers though.

Todd E

What kind of mill bit do you use and is it CNC? Or do you just have a particular pattern that you follow?
Ray

I use a taiwan special. Cannot remember the name ( Enco I think). It has a 9 X 42 table if I remember correctly and it is manual.

I basically blue print the action and then transfer that male to a female in the stock. Elaborating, I measure all the dimensions of the action and create a drawing (specific for each action done so as to accomondate specific tolerances for that particular action). I then use a 1/8" (for fine detail work) through 3/8" end mill (for coarser stock removal). I should note that I use four flute end mills and the mill is set at max rpm (I do not remember what it is off hand, but it won't go any faster so I guess it doesn't matter anyway). I usually mill a rough barrel channel as well and then scrape out the excess.

If you decide to do something like this it is a good idea to utilize ways guards so that you minimize the wood dust that gets to your gibbs. That dust will absorb oil and begin to make everything very stiff and difficult to use. You then get to experience the joy of tearing down a vertical mill and cleaning/readjusting everything. I personally have a rig set-up to hold the end of a shop vac hose about 2.5" - 3" from the end mill to try and capture as much of the dust as possible.

There is another potential machine and if anyone here has any experience with one I would appreciate your comments. Jet (and I believe a few others) make a combination drill press milling machine. These machines are no were near as rigid as a true vertical mill, but that kind of rigidity is not necessary for cutting wood or synthetic.

I hope this helps you out a bit.

Todd E

I did one by hand and did another at work on the mill a Bridgeport manual. Let me tell you if you have access to a mill and know how to use it, It's the only way to. If you have a good selection of cutters then you will have very little to no hand fitting.
I will never inlet a stock by hand again.
You will get much better results then by hand. Unless you're a master stock maker then it's all the same.
Kerry

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If you can't hunt, fish. If you can't fish, Hunt

I have an enco mill/drill and was hopping to put it to good usage with my first compleated attempt at making a stock.
Ray

M1CARBINE,

How does that Enco Drill/Mill work. I have been thinking of getting one if they function well. The mill I use is my Father's beater and is several hundred miles away.

Please let me know how you efforts turn out.

Todd E

m1carbine, you can do it either way but if I am doing a one off stock I do it by hand, I have a Bridgeport mill. If I am going to be using it time after time, I will either use an existing pattern I have or make one and have the blank cut on a duplicator using the pattern. I only go with someone with a Heonig/Rodman duplicator. I can glass in the action and with the use of the two radial clamps (if they bought them) they can cut to a nats ass on the inletting. I would get the outside .010 or so oversize. You cant do that on a Starr or a Dakota.

I had a good friend named Maurice Ottmar who would use a mill to start the inletting on most of his actions. If he had an oddball he would just do it by hand but he was fast and very good. After 3 to 5 days he would have the stock looking pretty good and be sanding. His wood to metal fit was always perfect.

Thanks For you replies, I have a peice of maple that I'm going to try inletting a mauser into.
Ray

A voice alone here. I have never had access to a mill to do a project like that. I simply put in my headless stock screws, drill my two holes in the wood and get out the spotting stuff. If you know how to use chissels and gouges it is surprizingly fast. Maybe a whole day job?? How much time to set up the mill, drive there, scratch your head. Personally I just get on it and go to work.

M1carbine,
If you choose to do it from a blank you will learn more about how to do it and get an appreciation for the work. Want to add one more thing too. Inlet the bottom metal first, that is key to getting it right.

Chic

Todd, I see your from Cleveland?
CWG

Thanks for the info guys. I hopefully will have a stock to show you in the future.

Chic,
How long did it you before you got good at stocking?

Ray

M1carbine,
3 years ago I made it into the American Custom Gunmakers Guild. I was fortunate for the previous 12 years to have two wonderful mentors, Ray Price and Maurice Ottmar. Maurice was well known in gunmaking circles and Ray should have been. Getting accepted into the guild had been a goal of mine since I met those two gentlemen.

Every year I go to our annual exhibition in Reno and each year I marvel at the work of people like Gary Gowdy, Jerry Fisher, Darwin Hensley, Steve Nelson, and the like. And every year I feel priviledged that I get to exhibit in the same room with them and that they did not have the vision to see I wasn't worthy. I will tell you when I get good. I am happy with each stock I build but I see flaws in all of them and am not satisfied with my work. I don't think my work has leveled out so I guess I have to say I am not "good" yet.

If you are asking how long it will take for people to think highly of your work, if you take your time and have a clear view of what you are doing it can happen with your first stock. You will make rapid improvements with each one and there will come a time that experienced stockmakers will pat you on the back and that will depend on your attention to detail. It isnt in how glossy you build the stock it is how well it is fit, how good your checkering looks (particulary in the corners where it is a bitch), how well the lines flow and how well you understand what you are doing.

Don't know if I answered your question. I do know I got better compliments from the average guy than from legitimate stockmakers for about 5 or 6 years. I do remember when Ray and Maurice both told me I had done a very good job on a stock and they were genuine about it. I do better work now than I did at that time.

By the way, I am going to do a checkering seminar on this site in february if you are interested. I will email you the text if you prefer and you could save it. I was going to do it on Huntamerica and have been promising it there for several years so will likely it simultaneously.

I can tell you from personally viewing his work that Chic is an excellent stockmaker. One of my goals is to also be accepted into the ACGG. Im far from that level of work however. That does not bother me. It takes a lot of time to get it right and every stock I do gets better. I pester people like Chic and JBelk for help via email quite a bit. Without these two characters I would be lost. Keep asking questions and dont give up.

Chic, I would appreciate any info that you are willing to share. I don't plan on doing gun work as a living but I found that it is a great hobbie. Its like making art except it can actuly be used for something.
Ray

I have used a mill in the past, but like Chic I prefer to have it done on a Honig duplicater or just do it by hand..I have done them on a drill press with a mill table but thats tricky.....Actually in my lazy old years I have a person that is so good with a Honig that I see little reason to do it any other way...No, he won't do for anyone else except me and himself, so don't ask..thats my promise to him.

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Ray Atkinson

ray@atkinsonhunting.com
atkinsonhunting.com