I have an early Model 7KS in 7-08 that I am thinking of rebarreling to a 6-250 Improved. What would it take to make a switch barrel out of this rifle so I can use the 7-08 barrel for deer and the 6-250 for hunting coyotes, ground squirrels, etc. The problem I see is how do you maintain bedding on these pencil barrels whenever you switch? Do you need to adjust the headspace on the original barrel as it will be somewhat less torque I would assume? I hate to give up the 7-08 barrel as it is a lifesaver in the 100 degree heat in the mountains when we hunt deer here on the coast of California. The rifle also shoots remarkable groups and I would hate to lose any accuracy. Thanks for any advice. Tom

I am not a Smith, but I have seen a few switch barrel rifles. The ones that I have seen used a bushing/spacer type of arrangement that was screwed into the receiver, and had interrupted threads in it. then the barrels had their original threads machined off and new interrupted threads machined on. (kinda works like a model 12 shotgun barrel)
Then the rifle had a latch type system installed to keep the barrel from rotating or coming off. Each barrel had its own forend stock. Who made these rifles I don't know.

Blue

There is no magic in making a switch barrel gun. The original barrel is removed, and a new barrel is chambered and fitted using the same recoil lug. A simple barrel vise, action wrench and a recoil lug holder is all that's needed.

As far as the barrel bedding, I would opt to free-float the barrel anyway, that way you don't have stock pressure problems in different weather conditions. And once free-floated, there is no influence with the other barrel.

Any competent riflesmith can set this up, but getting the original barrel off can be tricky. Once it's off, re-installing it is easy, and it doesn't need to be torqued like the factory does.

I'm fiddling with this very thing. Trying to get all factory pull-offs, new, if I can. Right now, I have barrels in .243. 7-08, and .308. Later on, I'll get the .260, and .22-250 barrels too. I haven't yet decided just how to treat the bedding/floating yet. They are all useable as is, with groups aroung 1 1/4", without much load development. That probably could be improved upon. One thing not addressed, is positioning the Recoil Lug. You could have your 'smith pin it to the receiver. Or, as I did, use a fixture from Brownells:
Badger Ordinance recoil lug fixture

It works well. As I said, I haven't done any floating or bedding on this rifle yet, but that will come. Maybe on the plastic stock I have coming. You also have to remove the scope to change barrels ('cause of the barrel vise) then you have to re-sight. A bore-sighter with recorded settings would help with this. Keep me posted on your efforts, and I'll try to do the same.................Bug.

you might want to consider a 243AI instead. get a mountain takeoff in 243 and rechamber. should be identical in contour or as close as you could bet anyway. would be on the cheap also
woofer

Bug,

Thanks for posting information concerning Brownell - Badger Ordinance recoil alignment tool.

Hammer

There is also another maker of lug positioner, it's a Kliendorst (sp?). Brownells sells them too. Pinning the lug is definately an option as well.



If I were going to do this project, I would true the action first, a precision ground recoil lug fitted, then set the headspace of the barrels. Personally, I wouldn't use factory barrels since I'm into the accuracy game, but for hunting there is nothing wrong with them.



You do not HAVE to remove the scope to change barrels. You can clamp the barrel further down to clear the scope, use a rear entry action wrench, and it's no problem. Once done, a recording of scope settings can get you real close with the first shot.



I use a steel framed barrel clamp fixture and have fitted hardwood blocks that fit the barrel profile, and apply pressure with a 6 ton jack. Simply bore a hole thru a split hardwood block oversize, then "bed" the barrel in the block with epoxy where you would clamp it to clear the scope. You will have a skin tight fit, sprinkle a bit of rosin in the block halves, and you have a great barrel vise.

I was thinking of going with a Leupold quick release base and set up each barrel with its own scope. I think the idea to true the action first would really help. I think I have the first few inches of the barrel bedded now. Should I free the entire barrel? I was going to have the barrel maker match the contour of my 7-08 but probably go with a 20 or 21 inch barrel. Thanks for all the input. Tom