Any advise on mounting a scope on a Swede 96? I've thought of drilling and tapping the reciever, the smith wants $20 per hole. Any one know of customs mounts other than B-square? I don't really want to use a long eye relief scope.

Spend the 20 bucks a hole. It'll be a cleaner, better looking finished product than a B-square or someother "adapter" type mount. You'll be happier in the long run, long after the 80 bucks is a memory.

1Swede
I agree with BigBores, Spend some bucks and do it right. You can however get by for $ 60.00 if you use Redfield onepiece type mount,( 3 holes), I beleive the model is "MK"
and will fit over the clipguide,on top of the rear receiver bridge.
Don't know what type of bolt you have,but you will most likley have to have it altered,Forged down or weld on new handle to clear scope?
Good Luck
Charlie S.

Thanks guys.
I guess I was leaning that way I just needed a little push.

Steve

$20 per hole??? EGAD!!

On my Turk, my gunsmith cut off and rewelded the bolt, drilled and tapped 4 scope holes, ground off the "bridge", removed the old barrel, rethreaded a Remington barrel, put it all back together, and sold me a Leupold scope base, all for $125. At that price, I had to grind off and polish the excess weld on the bolt handle, a fair sized chore.

Might be worth shipping your beast to Bryner's Gun Shop in Ogden, UT. I think you'll get your holes for less.

Thanks denton I'll give them a call after the 4th.

Good luck! Hope the info is useful.

If you're going to mount a scope, you probably have quite a bit of work to do. I re-did a Turkish Mauser, and found that the list is longer than I had expected.

1. Bend the bolt handle. If you don't already have a bent bolt handle, you either have to bend it, or cut it off and reattach it. Cutting and reattaching makes a better looking bolt. If you don't do this, the handle will not clear the scope.

2. Grind down the "bridge". This gives a flat spot behind the bolt opening to put your scope mount on. Of course, it also removes the blueing.

3. Replace the safety. In most cases, the safety won't clear the scope either.

4. Replace the stock. The stock is designed for iron sights, and your eye will usually be too low for a scope when you put your cheek on the stock.

5. Depending on how the bolt is done, you may get to do a little Dremel work on the receiver, so that the bolt will close again.

6. Buff off all the blueing, bead blast, and reblue.

I'm about done turning my Turk into a nice 30-06. I thought about scoping up my Swede, but decided to just put a Mojo aperture sight on it, and leave it stock. I don't mean to discourage you... a scoped Swede is a superb hunting machine, but I did want you to know all that can be involved.

1Swede
I agree with Denton $ 20.00 per hole is a bit much. Honest Smith should charge $20.00-$25.00 for first hole, (includes setup) then $10.00-$15.00 per additional holes.
If you use correct Redfield mount you don't need to grind off clipguide.
If you know somone who is handy with and has a lathe, you can do a neat bolt forge job as follows
1. Make a small pair of V-Blocks, that will fit tight against the square root portion of the bolt handle where it meets the bolt body.
2. Chuck the bolt up against a 4 jaw chuck with the above V-Blocks, ( The straight bolt handel pointing toward tailstock)
3. Turn the Bolt knob down to handel diamiter, , You now have a bolt handel with no knob.
4. Cut threads on the end 3/8th inch of handel, and slight shoulder.
5. center dril and tap an old bolt knob or 3/4" annealed ballbearing, and face to match diam of shoulder above threads on handel and screw on new (old) bolt knob.
6. then forge it lower and finish for scope.
This gives you about 1/4-3/8 inch longer
bolt handel than you get when just forging old straight bolt, (They usually seem kind of short.) Using the above method you can get them to look just like factory FN commercial with a littel carfull finishing.
Good Luck
Charlie S.

1Swede-just went through with the same thing you want to do. My cost for drill and tap,install scope,fit handguard, and boresite-$75.00+$35.95 for base and rings. Then add $57.15 for cost of safety($32.15cost $25.00 installation). $96.75 to cut and fit bolt,cut stock,true action,lap lugs,check headspace. With tax and shipping I'm out $284.73-and it was worth every penny. I now have the slickest bolt action rifle I've ever used, that gives me .5 groups. People balk when a smith charges $30-$40 an hour for labor-just look how much an auto repair shop charges per hour-or a plumber. Spend the money to get it done right,the Swedish steel is said to be superior than other mausers-just ask my smith he has done hundreds of mauser conversions over the years,and is always impressed with the Swedish steel and quality.

P.S.I really do need to throw this invoice away before my wife finds out the "real" cost.

Any scope mount designed for a small ring Mauser action is the right one and the Redfield 1-piece mounts designed for the charger bridge will work okay. You will need Medium or High rings since the unmodified bolt will not clear the ocular tube otherwise. Spend the money and have it done right or get one of those B-Square drilling jigs and do it yourself if you are up to it.