I have two thatcould really benefit from smoothing up the raceways to let the bolt move smoothly. I hard of using some abrasive paper wrapped around some wood to special tools from Brownells made for the job.



What do I really need to do this on 2 stainless actions? Right now the bolt grinds a bit when closing, a whitetail would hear it a 1/4 mile away.(g)!





Thanks, Rob

Jack Belk has a site on how to do it.



http://community.webshots.com/photo/78706180/78707783xfNuIx

If it grinds "on closing" it ain't the raceways that need smoothing.

Is the locking lug area clean?

Rick

Rick-

While you have a good point, I think he means when sliding the bolt forward to chamber a round and "close it", not actually rotating the bolt/lugs.

I know one of mine does it, while the other doesn't. I'll be interested in the responses....

Sorry I wasn't clear on that, it "grinds" when sliding the bolt forward, not when closing.

I looked at Jack pictures, is that a special stone that's shaped to fit the left dovetail shaped rail or will it work on both sides? Where do I get such a stone?

Rob

Rob,

Sorry I misunderstood you.

Start out by carefully examining the bolts to see if there are wear marks on them. If something is that loud it would just about have to score the bolt a bit.

Just a thought, though...Try a process of elimination by applying a real slick grease to different parts of the bolt and see if the noise goes away or lessens at all. Sometimes finding out what isn't causing the problem is as helpful as finding out what is.

From what you describe I would start with the bottom of the bolt where it rides over the sear and see what happens.

The other option I would try is coating the bolt with dykem and working it a few times to see where it is rubbing.

This last one may sound stupid but what the hell it's happened to me a few times. Are there any scope base screws or a tang screw coming in contract with the bolt? Does the noise happen when retracting the bolt also or just when pushing it foward?

Good Luck,

Rick

Sorry Rick, I may ahve mislead you. There's nothing wrong with the bolt or receiver, I just want to smooth it out. The raceways are a bit rough from the factory is all.


Thanks, Rob

Sorry, brother...from your original post it sounded like something was really wrong with your actions.

I have one of the Brownell tools and they work fine.

Rick

I whittled a little stick to fit the dovetail on the left rail and glued a small piece of paper to it. Ditto the right, its just a different shape.

tiggertate-

What grit paper did you use? And, did you use siliconcarbide or garnet paper?

Thanks in advance.

I use aluminum oxide paper for this (Norton 3X, 320 grit but 220 would work) because the paper backing is very very thin and it fits in the raceway well. Glue it on with an office type glue stick or buy some of the better quality self-adhesive discs from an auto body supply shop. They are thin too and peel right off when you need to change pieces. Don't use a thick glue or you defeat the purpose of hunting down thin paper.

Stay away from garnet paper unless you just like cleaning grit out of you action. Garnet stays sharp by fracturing like flint as you use it so you're always shedding a lot of grit while it works. Lastly, it doesn't have to be baby-bottom smooth to feel right. Just take off most of the casting high spots. If you take too much you get a sloppier bolt.



The stone route on the Belk post is great for Mausers and others that have square rails but that dovetail on the left side of the MRC is harder to get into with a stone.

Thanks Tigger, one last question.

Do you glue the paper on all three sides of the stick to get all three sides of the dovetail or just the main, vertical face?

Rob

I do each face separately because I'm a klutz and I cannot control the cutting on more than one at a time. Just like a "safe" file. I don't know for sure that you'll have to do all three faces; start with the side and then check the upper and lower surfaces as necessary. You might try grinding or filing the back of an old toothbrush to fit. That's what I'm going to try next.

If you use a soft stone as Jack recommended in the Mauser files, it will conform to the shape of the dovetail within a few minutes. Use lots of ATF.....

MKane160 aka BigDogMK

BigDog-

I have had a long day, so, the brain is not totally up to speed. In your reference to ATF, what were you referring to?

Thanks in advance.

I received a very nice, tight action from MRC. I followed Jack Belk's recommendations about which I talked to him at the Reno show. Those polishing stones work super in the dovetail rail as well as at the rear bridge where I had to do a good bit of polishing. All they do is knock of high spots as they quickly conform to shape. Besides, there's very little friction there anyway. It doesn't take all that long. I had to go one step further to have a super slick action. I jewelled the bolt. That didn't remove any measureable metal but it also made a tremendous difference in the smoothness of the action. I didn't use any lubricant and have no clue about the reference to ATF. Lubricant wasn't necessay.

If I were a betting man I's say it's Automatic Transmission Fluid. I've been following these MRC threads closely I still might order a left hand short.

Quote:

---

BigDog-

I have had a long day, so, the brain is not totally up to speed. In your reference to ATF, what were you referring to?

Thanks in advance.

---

You'd win your bet. I though everbody knew it was automatic transmission fluid. It is nothing more than a highly refined oil with additives. It works great as a gun oil as its freezing point is way, way down there.

Yep, Automatic Trans Fluid. It's the cutting oil for the stones. I sure wish Jack would come back and give us a professional discourse on this subject. I miss the old fart.....

MKane160 aka BigDogMK

I read all the Belk files too and have some hard stones for the outside surfaces. I decided that since I would have exactly 4 rails to smooth in my entire lifetime that I would save the $6 or $10 on those stones and figure out this one with stuff on hand. Total investment is about 50 cents so I'm up $5.50. I quit drinking so I guess my wife gets a birthday present this year after all.

Friends-

If a fellow wanted to spare no expense, where is the best place to purchase the actual stones? Brownell's?

ATF=Automatic Transmission Fluid. Of course. Boy, I was tired yesterday.