I have a m94 swedish mauser that my dad gave me. It had been halfway sporterized(stock chopped). So being the genius that I am I decided that I would do a good job and make a number one shooter out of it. I had the whole thing reblued and put in a laminate stock from Richards. It LOOKS GOOD but you can't hit the broad side of a barn with it unless you put it back in the old ugly chopped up orginal stock or swing it by the barrel in a backhand.
Back to the gunsmith and glass bedded the action and took out more wood. Made SURE it was totally free floated. Now you can hit the barn 3 out of five times. Still shoots 1.5" groups at a hundred yards in the old stock.
Then my brain finally turns and I put it in the old stock and sure enough there is pressure on the barrel for the last 1" of the forend on the left side and bottom. So what can I do to simulate this in the new stock. Or do I just burn it for heat this winter and shoot at deer with the gun in the old stock. My gunsmith said that he would make it right and I would like to take it back to him with some ideas when he gets sorta caught up from all the "can you fix this I wanta go huntin' tomarra" guys he gets this time of year.
Thanks in advance. I will try to provide anymore info if you need it, just ask.

Why not try bedding the barrel? At this point it might be worth a try.

It sounds like your rifle prefers a bit of fore end pressure to shoot it's best. I have a couple rifles that exhibit this irritating quirk, but it is best to give it what it wants if you want it to shoot as you expect.

First, put the barrelled action in the new stock and start putting a business card between the stock and the barrel near the fore end, shooting a group each time you add a thickness of card. When it starts to tighten up, you've found your sweet spot.

This is a project you can tackle yourself, if you are a bit handy.
First, you must determine how much pressure the fore end is putting on the barrel while in your stock. The best way I heard to do this is to put the stock in a padded vise with the barrelled action mounted. Use a postal scale or something that will measure fairly accurately and push up on the barrel until you can slide the business cards out easily. Read the amount of pressure you needed to use to separate the barrel from the temporary pressure points (the business cards). This should be around 6-10 lbs.
Now, get the barrel ready for bedding by using some parting agent (wax or manufacturer's parting agent) on the part of the barrel that will be coming into contact with the bedding agent.
Mask off the spot on the fore end where the business cards were, for about and inch and place a couple pieces of clay or putty on each end to act as a dam to keep the bedding from flowing down the barrel channel. This won't take much bedding compound, so don't mix up too much.
Now, mix up the bedding compound and place in the barrel channel in the designated spot and place the barrelled action in the stock and tighten down. Now place the stock in the vise at the action upside down, so you can hang something from the barrel. Now, before the bedding compound can set up, hang a coffee can or some other container from the barrel at the location you took the reading with the postal scale and place weights in the can to match the weight reading with the business cards in place. Now let it set until the compound sets up completely, probably overnight. The compound should flow down to fill the separation between the barrel and the wood and create a pressure point.
If it is too much pressure after it is good and hard, simply remove a bit with a file (very little) and try shooting groups until it settles down.
Hopefully, this is much easier to do than to read in this long winded explanation. This is how I had it explained to me years ago, and it works great. Of course, you could just leave the business cards in and it would probably work just fine. I did just that on one of my 22-250's because it finally got to shooting so well I'm afraid to mess with it. I get some strange looks at the range, but the varmint don't seem to care one way or the other.- - Sheister

So your saying you think it needs alittle pressure at the bottom let of the end off the barrel?

Thats strange ,that swede barrel is a pretty thick /heavy.
My costum swede has a new swede barrel and I just glass the rear tang, under the recoil lug and under the first short step out from the reciever in a cheap boyds walnut JSR stock. Barrel is floated. Its cut and crowned to 22"

My first handloads through the barrel 1-10 shots sighting it in . then #11-13 shots I got a 5/8 " group. Norma brass ,48 gr R-22,sierra 120gr bullet. Im happy!
I would think your swede should shoot good with that
barrel floated. Its not a light skinny contour barrel.
If you have a origanal M94 carbine I would put it back in a origanal 94 complete stock.
Is your drilled and tapped? What else has been done to it?

Maybe try some different bullets.
Rick B

Friend of mine tried this:

Lay out 2 popsicle sticks about 6 inches apart and put wax paper over them. Then lay out a whole gob of silicone RTV (the bathroom type)and put another layer of wax paper over the mess. Smooth it out into a sheet and let it cure for the recommended time. After it cures, cut it into squares and you have little pads that you can put between the barrel and channel at any position you desire.

Weather resistant, won't degrade over time, they stay put, and will keep a constant pressure on the barrel between firings. You can stack them up to give the tension you desire.

No guarantees it will work, but it might be a cheap and easy fix.

irwin

I dont get what the popcicle sticks do. Better explain again it sounds like what I should try.

They give you a relatively uniform height for the sheet. Anything will work, but I've got 2 rugrats so popsicle sticks are easy to come by.

After you put the second piece of wax paper over the RTV gob, mash it down with your hand and then you can roll a piece of pipe or something over the whole mess, sticks included, to flatten and smooth it out

If you want to really get messy, you can use another stick or ruler or whatever and use it right on the RTV like a screed for cement. Terminology might be wrong, as I'm not a mason.

I've made the little pads, but haven't had to use them so I can't 100% say they're going to work, but it might be worth a try.

At any rate, you'll at least get to pester your significant other with the aroma of curing RTV.

mmmmmm.....tasty

Measured those little pads and they're .080". Might be a little thick; haven't used them but they will compress. If you want to go thinner and do the stacking thing, you could definitely try something else to get the height you desire and then stack as required.

irwin