Gentleman,

The head of my Browning BPS 12ga pump gave way this afternoon, like to fix it ASAP as we're in the middle of deer season and Browning said "too bad, buy a replacement".

Here are some pics of where she let go. As you can see from the pics it's a through-bolt gun and I use it primarily with slugs for deer hunting.

Will Acraglas and agood clamp hold up or do I need some reinforcement on this? Should I put a blind screw down from the top to either side of the bolt channel?

What do you suggest? Right now looks aren't that important.

Accraglass and surgical tubing or inner tuber or any strong elastic band to suck it in tight. The repair should be stronger than the wood, even with a good waterproof wood glue like Elmer's. The Elmer's will be easier to clean up without damaging finish after it dries, too.

You probably want to look at the wear marks on the boss that butts up into the action to make sure that bad inletting wasn't the culprit.

And since you didn't say it, be sure to take it apart first.

[quote]Accraglass and surgical tubing or inner tuber or any strong elastic band to suck it in tight. [quote]

While your at it glass the end that fits up to the rear of the reciever for a nice snug fit to the wood and reciever...Just dont forget the release agent!

OK, Acraglass it is and I'll bed the receiver.

I dropped the gun about 12 inches today , it landed on the scope (whole 'nother repair). I shot a round to see if the POI had shifted and the stock popped.

My first gun, bought in 1986, heh, heh. I have a lot of others, more expensive, but your first is your first.

Thanks guys,

Rob

It sure wouldn't hurt to use some MEK or acetone on the raw wood first to remove any wood oils that may be present.....The acraglas will work better if the natural oils are removed from the repair area.....just soak some tissues in acetone and wipe the repair area thoroughly.

Will do dog, thanks.
Gotta love that Browning plastic finish, eh? That's going to be more work to smooth than the repair.

also, don't get too crazy with the wrapping pressure when you glue it up. unlike carpenters' glue, epoxy works best when there's a thin layer left between the pieces. many epoxied joints fail because of too much clamping pressure squeezing almosy all of the glue out, making a "dry joint" for more info on this go to the wooden boat forum and search "dry joint".

So the Elmer's or Titebond will give a better bond if I want the joint to be as close as possible?

I tried searching for dry joint at the Wooden Boat forum but they have one of those search engines that will return anything with the word joint or dry. I got a couple of pages of hits but non were pertinent to "dry joint".

There probably should be a spacer plate between the stock and the rear of the receiver similar to the Rem. 870 and 1100

I would relieve some wood from the middle area of the break so that the epoxy has somewhere to go after you squeeze the two pieces together.

Just a few splinters taken off with an Xacto.

quote:

Originally posted by Bob G:
There probably should be a spacer plate between the stock and the rear of the receiver similar to the Rem. 870 and 1100

I haven't had time to pull the stock yet but the diagram shows a plate, thanks, I'll look out for it.
Good idea Shopcart, will do.

Rob

Rob,
I used to build teak swim platforms for boats and I used one trick to stop the clamps from squeezing (out all the glue and it can do just what they was said). I bought bridal veil material and cut it so it was just a tad smaller than the glue surfaces. So when the clamps pulled down tight, the space could not go to zero. BTW, the oil in the teak wood did not bother the epoxy as far as sticking. I do not know if it will be a problem here but if you are concerned it is an easy solution. I used West System epoxies but acraglass would work just as well. I would glass the stock head against the action also.

When the season is over, check with www.gunpartscorp.com and see if they have a stock.

And I have not forgotten that letter I owe you.

No, please don't use blind screws! They won't in the long term work anyway!

Take the stock off the gun. Glue it. I use even here in England a superb American cabinet maker's glue the name of which I'll post later.

Then when it is dried drill down into the stock vertically and insert with glue two wooden dowels that should be a tight friction fit.

This will make it as good as new I promise. You can then shave off with a very, very sharp knofe the tops of the dowels to the contour of your stock.

It won't move!

quote:

Originally posted by Customstox:
Rob,
I used to build teak swim platforms for boats and I used one trick to stop the clamps from squeezing (out all the glue and it can do just what they was said). I bought bridal veil material and cut it so it was just a tad smaller than the glue surfaces. So when the clamps pulled down tight, the space could not go to zero. BTW, the oil in the teak wood did not bother the epoxy as far as sticking. I do not know if it will be a problem here but if you are concerned it is an easy solution. I used West System epoxies but acraglass would work just as well. I would glass the stock head against the action also.

When the season is over, check with www.gunpartscorp.com and see if they have a stock.

And I have not forgotten that letter I owe you.

Chic, my only concern with the wedding veil material is that the wood chip and stock would not come together completely leaving a small gap. I may relieve some of the wood towards the center, leaving the edges alone so the repair will be as clean as possible.

I do have some leftover MAS epoxy for boat building, similar to West. It uses the pump system but I guess I can measure a small amount by volume for this repair.

May I offer a suggestion seeing as adhesives are one of my things , Wood being another.

A quality glue such as Franklin Titebond 2 is all you need .

As suggested by others surgical tubing works well enough . The break is a common one and clean .

If your REAL CAREFUL it will be near invisible and stronger than the wood it's self .

If you like carefully use a rag with wax on it. Use only a finger wax around the

edge of the stock portion of the break only . Dry fit your broken piece too the stock .

Do you like the fit ? If not carefully remove any obstruction ONLY inside of the edges NEVER on

the edges . Place a fair amount of adhesive on each piece allow it to soak in for a few minutes .

If an area looks dry apply a small amount more . Now place them together position correctly use

a little pressure to force them in place . Now wrap surgical tubing only after wiping with a DAMP

paper towel or soft cotton cloth , So as to remove any excessive squeeze out .

Allow to dry your done . Epoxy is not warranted nor necessary for a job like this .

If the grip were sheared off then dowels or biscuits with epoxy would be advisable .

NOT ACRAGLASS !, this is a Bedding compound .

By the way surgical tubing can be wrapped loosely medium or tightly a medium wrap would be

what I would suggest . GL ...

quote:

NOT ACRAGLASS !, this is a Bedding compound

Damn, I guess Ive fucked up all the dozens of stocks Ive repaired using 'bedding compound'.

Come on man, Acraglass >>>>>>> wood glue.

Well, I didn't see the last posts until just now and I made the repair earlier this evening.

I removed a tiny Amount of wood from the interior of the split, left the edges alone and used MAS epoxy and surgical tubing. I'll pull it and clean it up tomorrow and let you know how it went.

Tomorrow I hunt with a muzzleloader, legal in shotgun areas.

Thanks to all, Rob

Doc, agraglass is an epoxy glue, pure and simple. When I glue something, particularly one that broke, I want the strongest bond I can get and that is epoxy.

Rob, I understand your worry about the edge. The material is very thin but it could have shown. You need to post an after photo.

I bought a Perazzi MX 2000 skeet combo set from a friend this year and I was fiddling with it at our state shoot (he still had it then and made the transfer after) and I noticed two small cracks that although narrow went most of the way through the grip. I pointed them out to him and his first reaction was to say they were not cracks. I flexed the grip and they (one on one side and one on the other) opened up and were very visible across the checkering. He was worried about having to get the stock fixed. Told him not to worry, I was going to just glue it and then restock it anyway with some better wood. I used an air gun to blow the expoxy from the outside to the inside. I thinned the epoxy a bit with acetone and it does diminish the strength but still quite strong. Wrapped it with tubing and then recut the checkering and it is virtually invisible. It was amazing how far I could get the epoxy to move on th inside.