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Guys, I have several Sakos in my collection that could use some TLC in the form of stock refinishing. I am thinking about doing just that on a couple of beaters. However, I have never attempted to remove the crossbolt that is located just behind inletting for the recoil lug. My question is, whether there is a specific tool or process for removing this crossbolt? Any info or guidance would be appreciated Thanks GWB | ||
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Just wondering why you want to remove them. Judging from the look of the stock, it doesn't look like a whole lot needs to be removed for refinishing. Were it me, I would carefully mask the bolts and go for it. To answer your question, a cross bolt wrench is what you need. Brownell's has one for Mausers, can't say if it'll work on a Sako or not, but you'll get the idea. http://www.brownells.com/aspx/...il.aspx?p=416&st=&s= | |||
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I use a set of very strudily built snapring pliers; the kind with changeable tips. The trick for me is to get a good fit between the holes and pins. If the fit is sloppy, they will turn out and mar the bolt head. "Experience" is the only class you take where the exam comes before the lesson. | |||
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Craigster, The stock in the photo was a Sako rifle I had at hand and only has a couple of nicks. I recently picked up a "deluxe" at a very reasonable price. The stock has a number of dings, scratches and mars to the fininsh. I tape the checkering when sanding and can do the same to the crossbolt if there is not another option. I figured some of you "gurus" might know off hand of a tool in existence to help a novice. Tiggetate, enjoyed seeing you at the shoot yesterday. Thanks for the suggestion. I had thought of that and have a set of the snap ring pliers you mentioned. Thanks for the replies. GWB | |||
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Depending how tight those bolts are, I would have a hard time trying the sanp-ring pliers; too much room to slip and mar it up. I have taken a simple bolt, shortened the threaded end and, in the indexing head, with the hole spacing and diameter measured, drilled two holes and fitted the correct size pins and, VOILA, a custom made spanner wrench. I may already have one that fits. I have made a few, mostly for firing pins for doubles. Jim Jim Kobe 10841 Oxborough Ave So Bloomington MN 55437 952.884.6031 Professional member American Custom Gunmakers Guild | |||
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Jim, years ago, before I went broke the first time I had a reasonably complete machine shop. Today I do not. The closest thing I have is a dremel tool w/drill press attachment. I will call the people at brownells next week as my curosity is now piqued. Otherwise I will try the snap ring pliers. Failing that I will tape the crossbolt head and carefully sand around the bolt. However, if you had such a tool I would be happy to negotiate a price or borrow it for a while and send it back. I would be happy to pay shipping. GWB | |||
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Just let me know what the hole spacing is, center to center and the diameter of the holes. Jim Kobe 10841 Oxborough Ave So Bloomington MN 55437 952.884.6031 Professional member American Custom Gunmakers Guild | |||
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I tried the snap ring pliers idea. Removed the attachment. Placed prongs in holes. Used cresent wrench choked up close to bolt head. Worked like a charm. Thanks for the help and suggestions gentlemen. Best to you and yours. GWB | |||
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OK I used sako cross bolts on my Ruger rebuild and screwed them in myself Like you I didn't have a tool.....So here's my suggestion I own a GOLF shop so this is what I did, go in and ask for a basic golf shoe spike remover disk or plate, you should get it for nothing, they cost two tenths of nothing anyway It will be a little wider than you need, so bend it in the middle to bring the spikes closer together and sharpen up the spikes to fit and it works perfectly Here it is: | |||
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Have had the crossbolts out of over 30 Sako's of the model you show, snap ring pliars worked flawlessly every time. I tinkered with a golf shoe spike tool once as well, got it to work, but the snap ring pliars are easier for me. If the bolts were rusted or seized, than the slipping factor might be relevant with the snap ring pliars, I just haven't encountered any that needed a whole lot of leverage to break loose. | |||
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Cool info guys! Here's a question to piggyback onto this thread, I bought an AV 338 recently that came in a single CB stock, I put it into a laminated sako stock with double CB's. It got me to thinking. Were there any AV magnum calibers ever put into single crossbolt stocks? When did they change? The prior owner mentioned having a twin in 30-06, and I'm thinking he may have swapped stocks before selling this to me..maybe. I can't recall if he told me the '06 was an AIII or an AV. Doesn't matter, it's in it's permanent handle now anyway. TIA, Gary Damn right its loaded, it makes a lousy club. -JW | |||
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The late A-V's used two crossbolts after the trigger was changed from the original "Sako No. 4" trigger. Those with the No. 4 trigger used only the recoil lug crossbolt. Speaking of Sako crossbolts, are you aware the the early crossbolts were flat-sided so that the action recoil lug was bearing fully against them? The later crossbolts were round so that the recoil lug only bears against the radius of the crossbolt along a single line rather than a plane. | |||
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Stonecreek, Don't know if you will revisit this thread, but I recently concluded a transaction with fellow who know you, goes by the initials WTB. He said you like Sako rifles. I told him I was aware of that and that I liked them too. GWB | |||
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WTB is a straight shooter! I bought a really nice Sako .25-06 off of him. We met at a cafe in a little town about halfway between where each of us live to do the exchange. After he drove off, my wife and I went in the cafe to eat. A few minutes later, WTB showed back up to bring me the original sling swivels off of the gun which he had forgotten to give me. I would have never known the difference, but he went out of his way to make sure I had them. | |||
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