I have used Devcon with excellent results but dont like the grey line that I end up trying to hide. Considering using acraglass with brown tint added. What have you used on bad stock cracks with sucess?

Any of the clear epoxies, dyed, will work well...and if the crack isn’t too big and isn’t in an area that needs maximum strength I have also used HOT-Stuff super glue with really good results and you don’t need to dye it. I fixed a small, but long, crack on the bottom of the forearm on my M1A with Hot Stuff and also have used it on splits on the upper handguards of 1903’s. You can open up the crack or split slightly with a razor blade if you have to to let the Hot Stuff flow into the area...just get the blade out really quick!

Regular AcraGlas, not the gel.

-Spencer

quote:

Originally posted by ShopCartRacing:
Regular AcraGlas, not the gel.

-Spencer

I second the Acraglas. (Not gel) dyed to match. If you can "open" the crack somewhat and work the Acraglas all the way through the crack the repair will be stronger than the original wood. Brownell's also has a thinner for Acraglas where you can thin it like water for the hard to "get into" cracks......

BigRx

Thanks for the great info...just curious why down on the GEL version? I ordered a new tub of Acraglass and just realized they sent GEL version. With the consistency being lighter I assume it would penetrate wood fibers better. Is it weaker?

I use West Systems epoxy. The resin has a great shelf life. The hardener will still function at 5 years plus but it starts to give the finished product a red tint.

Ultraman, the gel will sit in one place and has less of a tendency to spread with gravity. A thinner liquid is more desirable for repairs.

If you can get to the back side of the crack a shop vac can help pull the epoxy in.

Ive used Evercoat laminating resin a few times , cause thats what I have in the garage. More hardener makes it hotter and goes off faster. Ive used it for cracks and a medicine seringe with a basketball air neddle end cut off to inject it into the crack .

I like regular AcraGlas better for two reasons:

First, the gel does not harden quite the same as regular, it sets as sort of a hard nylon and has some degree of flex to it, unlike the regular which dries hard as a rock.

Secondly, and more important on a crack repair, is that the regular flows much easier and goes EVERYWHERE for much more contact on the surface of the two parts being joined.

Think of it as trying to fill a crevice with toothpaste (the Gel) or with honey (regular).

-Spencer

I use West System epoxy also. You can buy thickening powders of different types to get the material properties you want, and the viscosity that you need.

Tip o' the day.

Use superfine Walnut sawdust (Hopefully from the same stick.) for a filler to hide the repair.

Good for a million different jobs around the house also. Hell, I've used it as a stock finish on a Savage 99 recently.

You can buy it online at WestMarine

Elmo

Here's a little trick I've learned to get AcraGlas into a crack. Spread the crack as much as you can. Spread a small amount on the surface of the crack. Use an old hair dryer to warm the AcraGlas and push it into the crack. The heat from the drying immediately drops the viscosity of the AcraGlas to the consistancy of water, the blower helps move it to the crack where you want it. You may have to apply more than once.

I've found that dying AcraGlas when used as a crack filler makes it stand out more than applying it as-is. The brown dye always makes it look like I used a dog turd to repair the crack. Depending on the wood and the size of the crack, black dye may work well. It looks like another mineral line in english walnut.

THANK ALL OF YOU FOR THE THOUGHTFUL REPLIES...MANY MANY GOOD TIPS HERE. I have the making it stronger than before part down but really need more work on hiding them....great pointer on the black dye instead of brown...I have noticed the same.