I ordered a new manufacture Imbel FAL. Took it out for the first time yesterday for a try out. Tried the single shot mode everything was fine but when I went to shoot it semi auto it would shoot the first round load the second one but just leave a small indent on the primer. I then ejected that one and the next would fire. then the next would not. Did I may $900 + for a peace of junk or is there something about it I don't know? This is my first semi auto rifle'

try adj. the gas regulator on the barrel.
what cal. and load are you shooting? i have one that was built in .243 win. with a heavy barrel. with 90g berger bullets it holds moa out to 400yds.

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born on a mountain, raised in a cave, hunting and fishing is all i crave!

Sed,
This is a problem with the fire control group. The Hammer/Trigger/Sear. In the FAL there is a very close relationship between these components in spring tension and the angles of engagement of the surfaces of each part. From what you describe, the very small raised edge on the bottom of the hammer is not being engaged by the sear, thus the hammer follows the bolt carrier into battery. This will also occur of the weight of the hammer is too light. You should be pleased this is all that happened. Sometimes when the hammer "follows through" the rifle will empty the mag with no input by you except your wet shorts. I take it this is a IMI-444? You should call them immediately and send the lower unit back for them to replace the fire control group.

Also you need to be at www.fnfal.com where there is everything you ever wanted to know about FAL's. I know, I am a FALoholic myself.

[This message has been edited by Roger Rothschild (edited 09-24-2001).]

I am loading 150g hardball behind 43.5 g of IMR 4064, yes its in 308. The gas regulator on the front of the rifle has no markings and will NOT turn. Like they say "buyer beware" for the same money I could have bought a Bushmaster in the same caliber. I think that any new rifle you have to take back to the factory to be made "operational" isn't worth owning.

I made an IMBEL/STG-58 kit rifle. I loved it. I think you have some learning to do. First, don't test a rifle with handloads. Is the bolt closing all the way? Insufficient gas may allow for feeding but notfully reset the hammer. Use factory ball. 90% of the problems are due to handloads. Loading for a gas gun is a whole other world from a bolt action. Second, The regular WILL turn. There is a detent. Adjust it for more gas and use factory ammo. I bet it will work. Study up before you condem the rifle. Lastly, it may have some problem with the fire control, if so take it back. You have one of the best military rifles ever made. It is on a par with our M-14.

Sed,
Are you using a small base sizing die? Cobalt

Im just a dumb guy from Missouri I took it back... thanks for the info.

Tell us what happens.

I went to the dealer and picked the gun back up. picked up a box of factory ball and the rifle still only fired every other round. I noticed it was ejecting the cases 20 feet away so I thought that might be to much. I opened the gas port until it was throwing brass about 6 ft way. then the rife would start firing every two rounds. Am I looking at the right thing? could the rear movement of the slide not be cocking the hammer every time? Also I have been oiling the gas rod is that a no no? Could I be gumming it up? Like I said I'm just a dumb guy from Missouri. Maybe the gun just needs to be shot and broke in?

Sed,
There are very few truly dumb people, stop that.

Sitting down with the rifle pointed towards your left, look just in front of the gas block, this is the part that has the front sight. The thing right in front is the "gas plug", you will see maybe an arrow on it or a letter. Push in the round thing sticking out of its side and turn the plug. It is removable, hold onto it tight or your gas piston will fly across the room. You can see there are two different sized flats on he plug so you cannot mess up putting it back.

Now, with the bolt forward, open the receiver halves using the locking body latch located on the left side of the receiver just behind the safety. It should be either a vertical latch or horizontal. Vertical moves back, horizontal moves down. If it does not want to move, press on it with you thumb and bang the rifle on floor butt first. With the halves open remove the dust cover (stamped metal thing covering the innards) and remove your bolt/bolt carrier assembly.

Remove (carefully) the spring from your gas piston. Find a nice flat suface and roll the piston on it to make sure the piston is not bent. If it is bent you'll need a new one www.dsarms.com has'em. Without the spring, insert your piston and then tilt the rifle up so it slides into the receiver. It should slide in without binding. If it binds then the barrel is not timed properly and you'll need to have the manufacturer do it.
Note: The gas piston is supposed to be dry and the spring has only the lightest of touches of oil on it.

Does the bolt carrier ride smoothly in the receiver rails?

Look up into the magazine well from the bottom. Do you see any brass marks on the bottom lips of the receiver mag well? Put in a magazine with a few rounds in it. Look to make sure the cartridges aren't hitting the shelves there. This can be corrected with some carefull filing.

Look on the side of the receiver and tell me who made the rifle. CAI (Century, IMI ect..)
Do these things and post back.

Note: On the FAL gas adjustment nut 0 or 1 means the gas system is closed, all gas is directed to the piston. On 7 the gas is vented to the atmosphere. If you are not sure where your is right now look just behind the front sight and you'll see a hole being covered when you screw the nut forward. Ejecting 20 feet away means you had the gas closed. Six feet away may cause probs. Close the gas to 2 and do the above diagnostics and post back.

My bet is that you have "hammer follow". Some of the kit FAL's I've seen have retained the 3 position safety. Now it won't go full auto because you don't have the auto sear or the full auto ejector block. The 3 position safety is not as far as I know illegal. A real easy way to see if you have hammer follow is to take the dust cover off the gun so you can see what is going on. With the gun UNLOADED cycle the action. This should cock the hammer back. Set the safety to the fire position, which should hopefully be the only other position besides safe. Pull the trigger (the gun is unloaded and pointed in a safe direction, right?). With your finger firmly pressed against the trigger, cycle the action back and release it. Now release your finger from the trigger.The hammer should have cocked and stayed cocked. If the hammer followed the bolt down as the bolt went forward you have a hammer follow. If the hammer stayed back the gun is functioning properly.
Does your safety have 3 positions? You can easily tell, the first setting, semi-auto, is only about 45 degrees clockwise from safe. The third position, full auto is 180 degrees from safe. If so use only the safety and the next position. I'd highly recommend you get the 2-position safety from DSArms.

Shoowallagager:
Great point, another reason, a cop may get very exited to see that your rifle has a full auto setting. For sure get a new one.
Imbel receivers a very good. I don't think any adjustment will be necessary there.
Hope you get it worked or I really enjoyed my rifle. Felt I had to sell it to stay off California gun regristration lists. Too bad, I miss it.

Roger, I pulled the piston and rolled it on a table and it seems striate but when I put it back in the rifle with out the spring it has a slight bind so I noticed if I turn=urn the piston there is a place that's pretty smooth and its exactly 180 degrees from the black spot on the piston, I assume that's where the gas has been entering the piston so I put it back together that way. Shoowallagager I did as you asked the bolt assembly is very smooth and I did the trigger test and the hammer stayed cocked. I also could not find any brass on the receiver. Scot_A what to hear something funny my FAL was sent to Calf from Brazil then shipped to me from there. My dealer even thought that was funny lol.

That rod kept nagging at me, so I put it on my bullet run out gauge, and yes it was bent ever so slightly so I ordered a new one from that website you suggested. If it fixes the problem it will be the best $42 I have ever spent. I also was looking thru that site and I didn't realize you could buy so many accessory for the FAL? I'm not going to shoot the rifle anymore until I get the new rod, that way I don't have to worry about it galling the cylinder...I'll then let you know if it fixed the problem. and who do I send the thank you card to? LOL

www.fnfal.com go on to forums. There is simply a concentration of information available that you will not believe it. I have two (used to have three) Century FrankenFALs. I retimed the barrels, massaged the interior of the Hesse receiver and feed ramps, polished ALL contact points in the fire control group,remade bolt hold opens...It took time but I tell you I have raised eyebrows at the range not because the way the rifle looks but how it shoots. I put on humback stocks for better eye relief and this past Tuesday I put six shots in a small diameter circle. I does not impress me as I need more practice (time is dear) but I was told it was good for peep sights.

Keep your gas system oil free and like I said just the tiniest bit of oil on the piston spring.

Did you get a stock removal tool with your rifle? If not do this: remove the butt-pad and you will see the butt-stock bolt. It is designed to use a long rod that goes into the stock, when the spring comes out it keeps things in order. Just carefully unscrew the the bolt, the spring has about ten pounds of pressure so it won't break anything, just be prepared and keep the rifle under control. Good idea to do this with rifle laying on a towel. You can use a small diameter rod from a hobby store to go into the stock if you want. It makes putting the spring back easier.

Once you have the springs out clean the recoil tube using some spray degreaser like CRC-Electro clean. Clean the springs and plug then ever so lightly touch them with some LIGHT grease. Most everyones favorite is Lubriplate Assembly Grease (white). Any tractor shop worth its salt will have some. Just a dab.

[This message has been edited by Roger Rothschild (edited 09-27-2001).]

The Rods are back ordered, bummer.

Received my new gas piston yesterday and all I can say is thank you, thank you, thank you. To think I was going to return a great rifle because of my total ignorance. You guys where great help. Thanks again...Ron

I hope it works!

Sed,
When you take it to the range, remove the dust cover so you can see what is happening inside. Of course it will be real quick but you should be able to see if the hammer is being cocked. If it is also look for it moving when you pull the trigger. I am interested to know how it goes. My first Century FrankenFAL I had to take back so don't worry about it.