I need to "steel wool" a stock I am refinishing using Pilkington's finish before I rub it out with rottenstone and linseed oil. Instructions say to use 0000 steel wool. I HATE to use steel wool on wood and am instead planning on using a Scotchbrite pad.I think the white color pad is the equivalent of 0000 steel wool but am not sure. Does anyone know? Thanks!

White scotchbrite is a little coarser than 00000 steel wool, you might try it and let us know how it works. The grey and red are much coarser so be carefull with them.....DJ

Maby go to www.3m.com and a look,,Good luck, Clay

Wiktor:

I don't think you will need the steel wool or the skotchbrite. The only reason you would need either would be if you need to even out the finish or remove dust nibs or other blemishes.

If/when I get the occassional imperfection in the finish I wet sand lightly with 1000/1200 grit sand paper. Then I rub out the finish with rottenstone and linseed or coconut oil.

From 3M, the white is courser than 0000 wool, but I havent tried it. Since you are interested in finding out, why dont you try it, if it ruins one of your guns, warn us so we will know

No one likes to use steel wool but nothing seems to substitute it when ya need it. Just dont sprinkle it on your Salads, and you will be fine.

good luck

I once went though the whole series of Scotch brite colored pads to get a 22 barrel liner spinning at 3600 rpm to be smooth enough to replicate Varmint Al's test of Flitz vs JB bore paste.
So I blued it, and it looked shiney.

Finding the Scotch brite color code on the internet is not easy:
http://www.ameritech.net/users/knives/grits.htm#scotch

Can you eloborate a little on coconut oil? I hadn't heard much about it 'til you mentioned it.

The white scotch brite pads I have wont even buff a dryed tung oil finish. They are like plastic. probably just mess up your finish if they even can cut the shine.
0000 Steel wool is about the best thing I used. I just blow everything with my air compressor when im done then wipe the stock down with a cotton sock.
I only use steel wool last to cut the shine on final application of tung oil after wet sanding and the oil is in the wood, grain filled

scotch bright pads tend to leave color in tung oil... which will REALLY piss you off the day you take your finished rifle out in the sun.... as the stuff abrades, it leaves a micro filler....

i too hate steelwool on stocks, but there aint a choice, so I use the compressor after.


jeffe

Sorry, I misspoke. I actually use paraffin oil. Coconut and paraffin oil are simply non-drying oils used for rubbing the stock finish out. I prefer the non-drying oils so I won't change the look of the finish with another finish.

do not use steel wool for anything regarding a stock. Do what scrollcutter said on the super fine grit (1000-1200)sandpaper and wet sand. Buy a good grade of automotive paper 9the black stuff) You will get a very uniform fine cut that you can control.
Make SURE your finish is cured. You would be amazed how different it is to final cut a 2 month old finish compared to a 2 week old one. Polyurethane, oils or blends doesnt matter...Forget drying cabinets and what your local humdity is....give it TIME and you will be rewarded.

I won't use steel wool on a stock...I will use red green or white scotchpads with oil and with rotten stone and oil...I like it to knock down a finish after I am through finishing a rifle, then I stain with a stain that duplicates the color of Alkanet root, then polish with white and come back on the finish with several layered coats of Pilkingtons red oil...A nice dark red London oil look, but with the pores filled and much more weather proof...lastly in a week or two I give it one more rotten stone rub and then wax..Gives me an egg shell luster, or leave it flat.