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aaagh... My front banded site just fell off my barrel. I had it recently installed with a fancy scope mount and some other work on my Winchester 375h&h. Shot a box of ammo and found that the recoil had shifted it forward over my thread protector (I have a removable brake). Is it normal to have these things just stretched on (as this one appears to have been) or should they be sweated on or attached some other way? I plan on calling the gunsmith in the AM to have a discussion. | ||
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That sucks! Usually they are soldered on. They don't stay in place long if they are simply jammed in place. _______________________________________________________________________________ This is my rifle, there are many like it but this one is mine. My rifle is my best friend, it is my life. | |||
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maybe some of that good smelling ABS cement would work better,  in times when one needs a rifle, he tends to need it very badly.....PHC | |||
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I've heard of some that were epoxied on and a few that use a set screw. If the barrel and band are already blued, I'd try to epoxy it back on and see what happens. I'm not at all sure it can be soldered after bluing without rebluing. /////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// "Socialism is a philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery." Winston Churchill | |||
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solder will require polishing and rebluing the barrel and sight. If you can get it back on, get some Loctite 380 Black Max. This stuff is stronger than High Force 44 solder. I did not beleive it so did some tests and it blew my mind. One thing to be careful of-make sure you can get the sight exactly where you want it before the Black Max sets up. Once it is set up, you REALLY have to motivate it to make it let go!!! | |||
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Did you pay someone to istall it? If so, give them a call. Frank "I don't know what there is about buffalo that frightens me so.....He looks like he hates you personally. He looks like you owe him money." - Robert Ruark, Horn of the Hunter, 1953 NRA Life, SAF Life, CRPA Life, DRSS lite | |||
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I just did. They are standing behind there work and will figure out what happened and make sure it doesn't again. Regards, John | |||
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Marc, How does this loctite hold up to Hot Bluing? Is it as good in that regard as the Force 44? | |||
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It holds just fine through hot bluing. I don't hot blue, but the guy who finally convivnced me to try it does. He is in the Guild and it was several others in the Guild who convinced him to try it. Guns in Reno had stuff stuck on with it. That stuff just blows my mind. For a cramudgeon like me to say it is works took some serious proof! | |||
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Which "Guild" guns in Reno were glued? _______________________________________________________________________________ This is my rifle, there are many like it but this one is mine. My rifle is my best friend, it is my life. | |||
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PM sent with my experiences with it and how I have used it, but no names or gun examples. Sorry! I always felt funny talking babout others if something was not public knowledge. Not trying to be dodgy, just respecting their privacy. Hope you understand.  | |||
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I have used the Locktite #609 for final setting band ramps, banded swivels and other items for about 20 years now. Marc. Since I made so many of those items and sold them. I am most likley the person who started this method in the guild years ago. Westpac. Check out the #609, this is the locktite they use for cylinder wall bushings in engines, as well as setting bearings. Normally If I am doing all the metalwork, including the bluing I the locktite the parts on after bluing. However it will work as well by putting them on and them bluing the gun afterwards. Check out the banded parts on the #21 ACGG raffle project Jim Wisner Custom Metalsmith | |||
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Jim, I use the green 609 all the time, good stuff, but can't imagine any adhesive used solely to attach parts by itself. I take that back. There is a rubber based cement Brownells included with certain shotgun sights that held up well under the load. Though I didn't think it would have survived a 280 degree rolling boil caustic bath unaided.  Thanks... _______________________________________________________________________________ This is my rifle, there are many like it but this one is mine. My rifle is my best friend, it is my life. | |||
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Has anyone used the Loctite 410?  Doug Humbarger NRA Life member Tonkin Gulf Yacht Club 72'73. Yankee Station Try to look unimportant. Your enemy might be low on ammo. | |||
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Okay, confusion reigns here....what exactly are the differences between Loctite 380, 410 and 609? From these posts I am getting that each of the above will work for the purpose of putting on a banded front sight or barrel band sling swivel....so which exactly is the strongest? And is one any better than the other? Thanks in advance!! | |||
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David Christman swears by the 380 Black Max http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/380-EN.pdf Maybe this will hepl. Butch | |||
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Well I just ordered an ounce of 380. Can't wait to test this stuff. Doug Humbarger NRA Life member Tonkin Gulf Yacht Club 72'73. Yankee Station Try to look unimportant. Your enemy might be low on ammo. | |||
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Hello, If the sight band is NECG you will note a small allen head set screw under the sight insert. Merely cut a tiny indent into the barrel surface, top that is, after lining up with either dial indicators, spirit levels, or however you care to do so and tighten down and no problems. Mind you the OD of the barrel and the ID of the barrel band need to be considered and a near press fit spec used plus the pointed set screw and the sight will not shoot off nor will you need adhesive. Can if you want, but won't be necessary. Upon desire to remove, apply heat, loosen screw and drift off w/ nylon square edged block. PIA, but fairly easy to do and correct if need be. Good luck. | |||
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An NECG front site with a press fit and a the set screw in a dimple in the barrel will not stay in place under the force generated by a 145# man falling flat on his back on a snow covered rock. A Schmidt & Bender scope also will withstand that particular force. My skull has been field tested and proven to withstand such a force!.  THe NECG front site moved to the side in the fall, and it was on there with a very, very tight fit. Set screw rooted a small little furrow in the barrel under the site and was mo' natural hell to get off. After that little tumble, I won't have any front site not soldered, or now Loctited, in place, in addition to having the set screw in a dimple in the barrel. | |||
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Maybe tapping the masterpiece and inserting a set screw in the old Winchester hole would be better. I agree with a mechanical lock, and dimples don't give me the warm and fuzzy either. | |||
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I hear those front sights will not withstand a direct nuclear hit either. Nor wood stocks. Nor Leupolds. Not even figerglass stocks. Do silver-soldered sights fall off in a fire?  ------------------------------- Will / Once you've been amongst them, there is no such thing as too much gun. --------------------------------------- and, God Bless John Wayne. NRA Benefactor, GOA, NAGR _________________________ "Elephant and Elephant Guns" $99 shipped. “Hunting Africa's Dangerous Game" $20 shipped. red.dirt.elephant@gmail.com _________________________ If anything be of note, let it be he was once an elephant hunter, hoping to wind up where elephant hunters go. | |||
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Don't know how the sight and scope would fare, but given how hard headed I am, I think there is a pretty fair chance that my skull would survive a nuclear explosion! I know my ex-wife will tell you I am so hard headed that even if the rest of me was vaporized in the blast, mt head would still make it through OK. | |||
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Hello, Well, I doubt that the use of "super glue," solder, etc. will hold after such an impact as you describe in your fall. Tell you what, you can have solder,glue,detent screw, etc. and repeat the fall as you describe and advise of the results. Deal??  | |||
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