I have a new haven lh m70 in 30 06. could it be rechambered to the 300 H&H? if so, what is involved? I understand the bolt face mod and the feeding but I mean the barrel specifically.

All you need to do to the barrel is chamber it.

Send it.

quote:

Originally posted by bluefish:
I have a new haven lh m70 in 30 06. could it be rechambered to the 300 H&H? if so, what is involved? I understand the bolt face mod and the feeding but I mean the barrel specifically.

I'm curious why you want to do this.

I already know the answer for bluefish and everyone else who gets s 300h&h.
The cool factor of nostalgia. Not for any practical reason but don't forget that this is a hobby so none of that matters. They just want it.

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
I already know the answer for bluefish and everyone else who gets s 300h&h.
The cool factor of nostalgia. Not for any practical reason but don't forget that this is a hobby so none of that matters. They just want it.

It actually doesn't count, unless it's in a double rifle. But I never tell people that until after they have spent their money.

I'm really quite an asshole once you get to know me. he he he

As a kid I got a 1917 Enfield '06 of course.
From '58 until '73 I didn't have another rifle except a .22. I shot several thousand prairie dogs with it and 110gr loads. I wanted a .300Win/m pretty bad.

Gunsmith checked the chamber and said it was getting loose from all the shooting hot loads and it would make a dandy 300 that I wanted so much. He knew of a brand new reamer handy. So I told him to do it. One of the best decisions I've ever made with guns.

Only thing you need to make sure of is the action and magazine are long enough.

Good luck with it.
George

All post 64 long actions are made for the 300 and 375 H&H. Mag box will need the spacer removed which is just spot welded in.

1. Rechamber

2. Recut the bolt stop

3. Remove the spacer from behind the magazine

4. Good idea to use a magnum follower

5. May need to tweek the rails,maybe..

6. Cut away the rear portion of the loading space (rear action ring). about a half inch or whatever.

7 cut a half circle in the front of the front ring..optional.

All this, assuming it requires the same thing as I have done many times on a pre 64. Don't believe your action is different in this respect.

The 300 H&H can be loaded to walk on the heels of the 300 WBY with the right bullets and right powder, much of an improvement over the 30-06..and Ive used both over the years..The 300 is really underated by those who have never worked with it..Its the best of the 300s in that it has the powder space and the long bullets do not intrude into that space as they do in the 300 Win. for instance..

Post 64 Model 70s are not like the pre 64s in length, and the way the feed rails are made; the feeding is controlled by the sheet metal mag boxes. Don't cut into the receiver ring; that is definitely not necessary. Don't cut a half inch or anything from the bridge; not needed. Post 64 receivers are all made for the long magnums. And are the only forged receivers, contrary to popular belief, pre 64 receivers were not forged.

bluefish. Were you planning on using a lathe to re-chamber or a hand reamer?

quote:

Originally posted by bluefish:
I have a new haven lh m70 in 30 06. could it be rechambered to the 300 H&H? if so, what is involved? I understand the bolt face mod and the feeding but I mean the barrel specifically.

umm, actually if I do it I'd use a dpcd.

The reason I asked is that I never tried using a hand reamer and could use more information if the need ever arises. I had viewed hand reamers as being used to clean up a chamber or open up a throat. Seems like it might take a while to remove that much metal. Interesting post. Thanks.
https://upload.wikimedia.org/w...300HHMagAnd30-06.JPG

Nostalgia? Hard to find that brass, even in good times of availability...

But, consider Ackley Improving your Winchester: Kind of a Nostalgia or Cool Factor with the AI, and if shooting 180gr and heavier bullets, you gain all that legendary AI velocity. The AI gets you much better case life and stability.

Another Nostalgia play would be a .30 Gibbs. Blown forward case with an AI type neck treatment. The Gibbs is a really fine choice, and you keep your 5rd magazine capacity and need no bolt machine work.

I went .30-06 AI in place of .300win mag. I've also worked a bit with a .35 Gibbs.

The Gibbs ctgs are some real hotrods.

NOOOO do not try to hand ream that much out of a chamber. You will end up with a whopper jawed base for sure.

Ohhh man...what are you smoking???

Good question though!!! Probably many have thought, but not asked...ME included many, MANY years ago...sometimes learning the hard way teaches way more that just the muck-up.

I have to agree with Rod...not much nostalgia/cool factor attached to a 300 H&H in a modern bolt gun except for what YOU want...it you think it's cool, then it IS!!!

300 H&H can be made from other belted mag brass who's parent WAS the 300 H&H, i.e., 8mm RM, 7mm STW, 416 RM, 375 H&H and so forth...something in the 2.85" belted mag range is usually available somewhere.

If you are even considering a conversion to a wildcat or larger case, why not go with the modern 300 RUM...little problem getting brass or ammo...basically the same process that Ray pointed out. Load it from 30-30 to just below busting the boiler room.

Pro's and con's no matter which way you go...

Luck

Kinda figured that. Thanks for the clarification. Seemed like the reamer would tend to 'walk' a bit.

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
NOOOO do not try to hand ream that much out of a chamber. You will end up with a whopper jawed base for sure.

Yep. well put.

quote:

Originally posted by NONAGONAGIN:

for what YOU want...it you think it's cool, then it IS!!!

:

I had a 300 H&H in a Pre'64 Model 70.....nostalgia is it's ONLY strong suit....come to think of it I also had one in a Rem 721, even with the 3.70" box you cannot get a bullet near the lands.

One thing is abundantly clear, a lot of folks profess knowledge of the old work horse, and its obvious their actual use of the gun is non existant..

The 300 H&H, properly loaded will walk on the heels of a 300 WBY, by far better than a 300 Win. mag or 30-338 or 300 Norma. Those that claim the cases stretch is old hat by those that don't know how to resize a case. That long case and long neck allows the use of very heavy bullets seated out and gives abundant powder capacity, something fabled 300 Win mag cannot do with its runty neck..I could write a book on the 300 H&H, and like the .375 its a grand old caliber in grand old guns, and deserves more respect than some "experts" are giving it...

That long tapered case feeds like poop thu a goose, but better yet it extracts better than any other design and if a case seperates you can pull it out with your fingernail..BTW, its a very popular caliber in Africa to this day, they still love it, just a bit of trivia.

I have built all of mine on a Mod. 98 Mausers, mod. 70 pre 64s and a few Rem 721 and never had a problem with any of them..With modern powders they will hold their own..Your welcome to my casa, bring your 30 magnum, I have a chronograph we will contest..

To those uneducated souls that say the 30-06 is as good as the 300 H&H I will betcha all you have read is the factory ballistics..A 180 Nosler at plus 3000 FPS, A 200 gr. Nosler at 2950 is my pet load, I can load a bit faster with both but that's where the accuracy has been at with most guns. I call that substantial improvement over my 30-06 or my sons 300 win..

Its a lot more than nostalgia, and who says brass is hard to find. Grafs and others have a supply of it. I have a lot of it and if it ever disappears, I'll run a .375 case thru my die.

DPCD,
The half moon cut in the rear of the forward ring (ala the pre war 64 300 and 375 H&H factory rifle) is a good idea especially if you seat bullets out, and apparently Win. thought so, even though it was designed for clip feeding I suppose on military rifles, the two cuts I refer to make it easier to unload the gun with loaded ammo by cycling it out, if one is so inclined..The rear cut makes clearance for free extraction..Are they necessary, I think so, but I suppose its optional and enhances extraction if for some reason you need to quickly extract a loaded solid to use a soft point or visa versa, or load the rifle with long seated it out bullets. it preferred more often in the .375 I suspect...All pre 64 actions are magnum length. In fact only one post 64 is on a short action as far as I know.