Remington1

I was hoping someone with a lot more experience would answer your question. We have a large number of more qualified people than me. But I will start.

1st look up, http://community.webshots.com/user/jag1989

2nd you did not state what type mounts you are going to use on the bridges. But it doesn't really matter.

As far as color case, I would recommend against it.
One is the warping that you will encounter. Especially with the welding and different steels involved. Two, it is almost impossible to find some one with the knowledge and ability willing to color case a 98 receiver. It is beautiful when properly done.

NEVER use an oxygen/acetylene torch to weld a receiver!

The rear bridge can be welded on, but only with a TIG
welder (in my opinion).

As far as the front bridge, I recommend screwing it to the receiver. The amount of heat reguired to weld on the front bridge would warp the action. If you did not want the screw heads showing, make screws from the same material that you used for the bridges. Leave enough shank that you can get a pair of vice grips on to tighten. If you want a seamless fit mix epoxy with black dye and put between base and receiver. Install screws and tighten. Let epoxy cure, cut screws off about 1/8 inch above base and peen to fill void. When the base is finished screws will be invisible.

I hope this helps and you understand what I have said.
I am not good at putting things to words. I work with my hands. Maybe someone else will add their thoughts.

James

Soon I am going to TIG weld pieces cut from the upper half of an AK steel ring and mount system on a Mauser.



Because the weld will be so much closer to the centerline of the Mauser than it was intended to be mounted to the left of a thick mount on an AK, the top half of the rings will be canted to the left.







I have one of these mounted on the side of an AK, and it is a huge heavy obnoxious thing to put on a rifle. I intend to keep only 20% of the metal.

Square bridging an action, whether they will be cut for scope bases or left square, is a major operation and is not something that is easily described in a few sentences on the internet. It is also not soemthing I would advise for anyone who is just starting out. See if there is anyone in your area who would let watch them work (pay them for their time). That is the best way I know.

You need the basics under your belt before you square bridge and cut bases. It would be kind of like learning to ride a bike without training wheels and then jumping straight to flying an F 117.

I only TIG when I square bridge an action. I never weld with a torch for anything on a gun. You have to sink an aweful lot of heat in a reciver with a torch to get things up to welding temps.

And I also will not color case a Mauser action. YOu will not get the proper material properties for a rifle action by doing this.

I do have an old type written copy of in structions on how to square bridge. I do the procedure differently than how it is described, but it will work (did my first one that way). If you like, I will see if if I can scan it in and email it to you. It has basic TIG info as well. If you do not have good TIG skills, you need to either hire this out, go with another method of attaching the scope bases, or TIG every day for several months until you get the skills required to do this.

Marc

You are 100% correct. Square bridging an action is not
a simple nor easy task. You have to be a fair gunsmith but you have to be an above average welder and machinist.
This is not a job for a first time hobbist to undertake on their own.Although it is nice to have the knowledge of what is involved, reguardless of the intended use.

I would like to have a copy of your instructions for my files if possible. bgw@citynet.net
Thanks,

James