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22 match reamers
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Picture of Paul H
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My kids 22 boys rifle is a bit weak in the accuracy dept. I'm thinking setting the barrel back and cutting a match chamber and re-crowning it should help out.

The question is, there are so many different 22 rf match reamers out there, I'm not sure which one to get. I know the 22 bentz is designed for auto loaders, but it looks like there are 1/2 dozen other configurations. Most shooting will be with bulk 22rf ammo not match ammo.


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Posts: 7213 | Location: Alaska | Registered: 27 February 2001Reply With Quote
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I think that the secret now is a chamber without taper and a 1 1/2 degree lead. Ask your reamer person for Bill Calfee's latest.
Butch
 
Posts: 8964 | Location: Poetry, Texas | Registered: 28 November 2004Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Paul H:
My kids 22 boys rifle is a bit weak in the accuracy dept. I'm thinking setting the barrel back and cutting a match chamber and re-crowning it should help out.

The question is, there are so many different 22 rf match reamers out there, I'm not sure which one to get. I know the 22 bentz is designed for auto loaders, but it looks like there are 1/2 dozen other configurations. Most shooting will be with bulk 22rf ammo not match ammo.


What gun is it?
 
Posts: 1374 | Registered: 06 November 2005Reply With Quote
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It's one of the relica falling blocks.

I'm also thinking there Taurus pump action could use a little help as well, though setting back that barrel would be a bit more work than I'd want with the tube mag.


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Posts: 7213 | Location: Alaska | Registered: 27 February 2001Reply With Quote
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IMO if you’re going to shoot bulk ammo a match reamer might be a waste of money. I see you have an Alaskan address, your welcome to borrow (break it buy it) my regular LR. reamer and headspace kit. 907-522-4628
 
Posts: 808 | Location: Anchorage, Alaska | Registered: 04 January 2005Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Paul H:
It's one of the relica falling blocks.

I'm also thinking there Taurus pump action could use a little help as well, though setting back that barrel would be a bit more work than I'd want with the tube mag.


For that, I would recommend using a standard LR reamer, crown the barrel, sort and shoot the ammo by groups according to weight. See what that does.
 
Posts: 1374 | Registered: 06 November 2005Reply With Quote
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I measuered the chamber last night, it's 0.228" at the breach face, and tapers to 0.227" at the throat. I'm thinking that would explain the mediocre groups ie 1-2" at 25 yds

So what are the dimensions of of a std 22rf chamber? I'm thinking a 0.224" body, but what sort of lead at the throat?

It's not going to be a competition gun, but I'd like reasonable good accuracy with bulk ammo, ie 1" or so at 50 yds.


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Posts: 7213 | Location: Alaska | Registered: 27 February 2001Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Paul H:
I measuered the chamber last night, it's 0.228" at the breach face, and tapers to 0.227" at the throat. I'm thinking that would explain the mediocre groups ie 1-2" at 25 yds


No, not necessarily. A bad barrel, or, crown can cause that. With the barrel and forend essentially one piece (screwed together), how and where you hold, or, rest the forend can affect the size of the groups.

You can cut a tighter chamber but I doubt that alone will change anything. There are inherent design problems with those style of guns that need addressing if tiny groups are you goal. Good luck.
 
Posts: 1374 | Registered: 06 November 2005Reply With Quote
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Well then, I'll go for the target crown first and see what the results are.

Would bedding the foreend, and providing a bit more gap between the forend and the frame have some benefits?


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Posts: 7213 | Location: Alaska | Registered: 27 February 2001Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Paul H:
Well then, I'll go for the target crown first and see what the results are.

Would bedding the foreend, and providing a bit more gap between the forend and the frame have some benefits?


For that style of gun you need to support the barrel. And it needs to be uniform support. Since the barrel and forend are joined together, then you might try bedding the two together to make the contact more uniform. As far as contact with the frame goes, I would go the opposite direction to provide more support to the barrel and forearm. Let the frame take as much of the load as possible.

If you remove the support provided by the frame, then the barrel assembly basically becomes an unsupported hose and would likely spray the bullets all over the place. I would go for solid contact and support first. You can always try it different at a later date.

Before getting too wrapped up in it, I would recrown, sort the bullets and make sure that the rifle sits on the rest in exactly the same position for every shot and see what happens. Try some ammo like Winchester Super X or some of the Remington sub sonic stuff. Good luck.
 
Posts: 1374 | Registered: 06 November 2005Reply With Quote
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