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Quote: What difference do you find in the NECO system? Have you tried it? | ||
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While I completely agree with rootbeer, I did use some flitz polish on a stubborn Abolt 7mm-08 that wouldn't shoot well, and it worked amazingly well. I wouldn't have believed it made that much difference if I hadn't done it myself and seen the results. It went form shooting consistent 1 1/2" - 2" groups to shooting very consistent 1/2" groups. In my mind this was a fluke and probably not the norm with all rifles that refuse to shoot. | |||
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Quote: Wally , I bought the Neco system but never used it, I didn't like the looks of the abrasive, too course IMHO. You could accomplish the same thing with valve lapping compound(Clover) in various grits. It's a do it yourself system that I believe contains too many variables. Tubbs system comes with long for bore bullets already coated with "abrasive". Even the most coarse grade does not feel gritty. Just my personal opinion. | |||
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Hey Wally, I have used the NECO system on a half dozen rifles for myself and my dad. I got it before the Tubb system came out. When I am flush I use the Tubb system because I am lazy. When I am not flush I use the NECO system because there is enough stuff in there to do twenty guns which works out to about $2.00 a gun, not counting bullets. Here is what the NECO kit looks like: sorry about the blurry picture. I need to get a copy stand. Anyway, with the kit you get small tubs of 220, 400, 800, and 1200 grit lapping compound in a moly paste, a very complete and understandable set of instructions, some soft lead bore slugging bullets (you won't ever use them), and two steel plates. To use you smear some lapping compound on the big steel plate, put three or four long for bore size bullets (eg 220 grain RN in .308, 250 grain RN in .338, etc) in the goop, and grind it in with the small plate. For a rough bore I usually treat 5 @ 220, 10 @ 400, 15 @ 800, and 15 @ 1200. Then clean the bullets, load for a muzzle velocity of about 1500 fps, and shoot. Clean every thing involved in the process like crazy before changing grit sizes. If the 220 grit makes you nervous, don't use it. It ain't hard to use, and since I don't have my television hooked up, it helps pass the time on those winter evenings. It won't cure cancer, but it does smooth up a bore nicely. Like I sort of mentioned above, don't get too frisky with the coarse compound, it can move your throat forward a bit. Not enough for me to notice in a hunting rifle. After about five years the moly gets a little dried out. I just squirted a little Kroil in the tubs, and stirred the mess around until it was again smooth as fresh cake frosting. Maybe one of those folks who bought a kit and haven't used it would sell you their kit for ten bucks. Those colored dabs of nail polish on the cans were a tip I read about years ago. I color code the tips of the bullets with the various sizes of grit so I don't shoot them out of order. 220 is blue, 400 is green, 800 is black, and 1200 is red (in my sick little world anyway). Always go coarse to fine (of course). JCN PS Where this system really shines is when you are going to set a factory barrel back and recut the chamber anyway, because the chamber is not centered, has too long a throat, or has too much headspace (did I leave out any factory chambers?). Lap the barrel, then set it back and re-cut the chamber. Presto change-o, smooth barrel, clean, centered chamber, nice rifle. | |||
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Quote: The grit of the abrasives used in the Firelapping kit is actually finer than that used by custom barrelmakers to hand lap their barrels. The advancement that Final Finish offers aside from convenience is that the abrasive is impregnated in the bullet to a much higher degree than is capable with the NECO kit. | |||
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