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I'm still struggling with recoil pads. I'd say 0ne out of three I just have to throw away. The other two are passable and once in a while I get one just right. wondering if I just need more skill or better /different tools. below are the jigs and belt sander I use. Never mind the belt as it got trashed on a recent household project ![]() Also, may latest two projects in progress https://share.icloud.com/photo...cMkGg9_B_ZSzHCGYmMPw https://share.icloud.com/photo...CTKvqEAGZczgT6Ml0A-g https://share.icloud.com/photo...cZXo3H-eAYxjcXFQRigA https://share.icloud.com/photo...NeodX4fZPO0ascO5rSAw https://share.icloud.com/photo...kzyFCL4Jg8W7nQS-kAHw https://share.icloud.com/photo...kLG_Z97gojpExnuxeAYQ https://share.icloud.com/photo...YJqIuLuiHKlJUZV5KM1A | ||
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One of Us |
I was taught to grind them free hand years ago and have fit hundreds of pads that way, it does take practice to get good at it. I like to look down on the belt when I grind so I stand on a small platform to fit pads. A sharp belt helps. I use a jig only for the final grind on a leather covered pad. YMMV. Steve | |||
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In the shop, we use the jig and a disk sander with a table. The pad is screwed to the stock and deeply scribed with a scratch awl. The scratch is filled with whiting to make it stand out. Then the pad is attached to the jig and the two are placed on the table. Sand until the white line just disappears. | |||
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One of Us |
WE had a gunsmith on board while I was workiong or a large sporting goods chain...Every pad he tried to install...Farked up the stock! The job fell on me to repair until I just made mention he was not to touch a pad...ever! Nice guy and knowledgeable...but the stars just did not line up when it came to pad installation....I'm that way with computers! | |||
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I see your problem; too many jigs; I do it like SB; iron grip and nerves of steel; all by hand. Also, start with a coarse belt; using too fine a belt at first will just take forever and cause you to lose concentration. Of course, fitting one to an unfinished stock is child's play; I fit them to finished stocks by scribing a line, and then removing it for the last .030. Iron grip. Tape method; only if you don't want a perfect fit. | |||
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One of Us |
I've forgotten his name now, but the old man who worked in stocks at CST was very polite in his urging that I never touch a stock again. ![]() Nathaniel Myers Myers Arms LLC nathaniel@myersarms.com www.myersarms.com Follow us on Instagram and YouTube I buy Mauser actions, parts, micrometers, tools, calipers, etc. Specifically looking for pre-WWII Mauser tools. | |||
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A pad on a unfinished stock is easy, on a finished stock it takes a skilled steady hand unless you intend to completely refinish the finished stock and thats easy also.. I sanded to very close and finish by hand with i80 and 240 with a flat sanded block made from walnut or whatever and take long swipes not back and fourth, a slow process and I use my fingernail to know when its done...Its much easier to send it out if you know the right guy. Ray Atkinson Atkinson Hunting Adventures 10 Ward Lane, Filer, Idaho, 83328 208-731-4120 rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com | |||
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For fun or for profit. Are you charging for your time :-) Scribe it, Bandsaw then, belt/disk sander then, mount it then, by hand with files then sandpaper Pachy's seem to work well, softer pads don't react well to hand filing. | |||
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Thanks everyone, nothing really new here so I think I'll make a place to get belt sander lower and just suffer the long hand finish. On stocks I make I do them before I sand the whiskers off. | |||
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