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Lapping Lugs
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<500 AHR>
posted
Has anyone tried this?

The typical lug lapping jigs utilizes a threaded plug with a spring loaded plunger to provide the thrust while lapping.

While this is nice it doesn't provide the truest lapping from a rifle system stand point. I therefore, want to lap my lugs while the barrel is installed. To do this I will essentially use a head spacing gage (go) with a spring loaded plunger (working just like a standard lapping jig) and then lap the lugs with the barrel installed. This will true up my lug surfaces to the chamber of the rifle. I therefore eliminate any error do to the squareness of the action threads/face and barrel.

I am curious if anyone has tried this before.

Todd E

 
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<centerpunch>
posted


[ 06-15-2002, 02:15: Message edited by: centerpunch ]
 
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It's a little unconventional, but I don't see any rason why it wouldn't work Todd. I think you would just have to watch out for headspace and cleaning issues (after you're done lapping). Be careful and go slow. Take care - Dan
 
Posts: 5285 | Location: Alberta | Registered: 05 October 2001Reply With Quote
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Picture of Bob338
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I've done it somewhat similarly. I put a brass rod through the muzzle to rest on the bolt face, gooped up the lugs with grinding compound, then worked the bolt with the weight of the rifle on the rod, which was butted on the floor. That particular rifle is the most accurate hunting rifle I have today and I did that over 20 years ago. Not problems of which I'm aware. Not the best nor the most scientific, but it works.
 
Posts: 1261 | Location: Placerville, CA, US of A | Registered: 07 January 2001Reply With Quote
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Picture of Chris Jamison
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Todd--
I'm sure you are aware that lapping the lugs will change the headspace of your chamber. Using a go gauge will probably keep you from overdoing it, but if you start with a median range headspace measurement, you could possibly take your headspace measurement right out to the max, thereby creating a situation where you overwork your brass in just a few firings. The inherent misalignment you get with the standard tool will be negligible if your 'smith did his job truing the action and threads. Also, if you have a plunger type ejector,it will create more misalignment than the lapping tool ever would if it's used properly. You also run the risk of scratching the inner wall of your chamber with the gauge while lapping. If you decide to do it anyway, let us know how it turns out. I guess I just don't have the nerve to possibly ruin a good chamber job...
 
Posts: 168 | Location: Memphis, TN, USA | Registered: 27 March 2001Reply With Quote
<500 AHR>
posted
Thanks for the thoughts guys. I apologize I should have stated in my first post that head spacing would be checked and corrected after lapping if required. I have done this on my 416 Rigby and am getting ready to do it my new 300 Win Mag M70 Super Grade. This rifle is VERY BAD and I probably will have to rechamber the rifle when I am done. Actually I may slightly short chamber it first and then lap it in.

I was only curious to see if any of the resident gunsmiths had done it this way.

Centerpunch,
To keep all your negative responses the same the german response should be nein not verboten. Verboten means forbidden, while nein means no.
Todd E

[This message has been edited by Todd E (edited 05-05-2002).]

 
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quote:
Originally posted by Todd E:
Has anyone tried this?

The typical lug lapping jigs utilizes a threaded plug with a spring loaded plunger to provide the thrust while lapping.

While this is nice it doesn't provide the truest lapping from a rifle system stand point. I therefore, want to lap my lugs while the barrel is installed. To do this I will essentially use a head spacing gage (go) with a spring loaded plunger (working just like a standard lapping jig) and then lap the lugs with the barrel installed. This will true up my lug surfaces to the chamber of the rifle. I therefore eliminate any error do to the squareness of the action threads/face and barrel.

I am curious if anyone has tried this before.

Todd E


Good idea Todd for occasions when removing the barrel is not desired. Same cautions as just using bolt less extractor/ejector. Keep compund out of area it doesnt belong.

I don't see any accuracy benefit, however. Whatever method used, the spring tension is just to keep bolt lugs against receiver lugs until 100 % contact is made. Whether there is a slight misalignment in thrust of spring tension is not going to effect results IMHO.

Wally

 
Posts: 472 | Location: Oregon | Registered: 08 March 2002Reply With Quote
<Tom Blimkie>
posted
Have you considered chambering an empty case, and inserting a hardwood dowel down the barrel into the case,then using a piece of surgical tubing or even an old bicyle inner tube looped around the trigger guard and the exposed end of the dowel to provide the pressure required when working the bolt as you lap the lugs. The empty case will assist in keeping the bolt head square and the pressure even, and also helps keep any junk out of the chamber.

Tom

 
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<centerpunch>
posted


[ 06-15-2002, 02:15: Message edited by: centerpunch ]
 
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quote:
Originally posted by centerpunch:
RE: your criticism of the writing style and intent of my comment---Oofdah!, yah sure, you betcha, Ole

Todd E wrote�

A rhetorical question, wasting bandwidth.

(n.b. I added a comma, can you find it ?)


[This message has been edited by centerpunch (edited 05-05-2002).]


I just can't see Todd's post as rhetorical. Looked to me like he was offering another way to lap lugs.

I sometimes ask for an opinion re something I'm already doing hoping to elicit alternate methods or improvements on my own. Hardly rhetorical.

Wally

 
Posts: 472 | Location: Oregon | Registered: 08 March 2002Reply With Quote
<centerpunch>
posted


[ 06-15-2002, 02:15: Message edited by: centerpunch ]
 
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quote:
Originally posted by centerpunch:
wallyw:

This reply is off topic, but you raised the question of what I meant.

Sooooo, I do hope you would agree that there are rules valuable to, and for, effective discourse.

One that is universally accepted is:

It becomes problematic to all effective communication when a the listener's internal viewpoint i.e., personal interpretation is allowed to distort the meaning of what was, in this case, written.

If I may refer you to < http://www.m-w.com/dictionary.htm >

:Main Entry: rhe�tor�i�cal
Function: adjective
1 a : of, relating to, or concerned with rhetoric

b : employed for rhetorical effect; especially : asked merely for effect with no answer expected <a rhetorical question>

Given that Todd E stated in a subsequent post, that he had lapped lugs in this manner, his asking

quote:
Has anyone tried this

re: suggestions to lap lugs, makes the question rhetorical in nature, since it was obviously "asked merely for effect with no answer expected." because

1) "merely asked for effect"� that of getting responses from forum members

2) "with no answer expected"� since he ALREADY had the answer

That he may have been eliciting "suggestions" from others was NOT what he asked, stated or indicated in his original post.


You are very sure of what the rest of us have on our minds?

Wally

 
Posts: 472 | Location: Oregon | Registered: 08 March 2002Reply With Quote
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Tom Blimkie,
Yours is a pretty good idea, I was about to ask how to lap lugs without typical lapping rig.

centerpunch, wallyw,
What's with the dictionary definition? Please stop this kind of arguement. I know it's tempting to fight back, it just isn't worth your time, and wastes some of ours too.

Peace

 
Posts: 638 | Location: O Canada! | Registered: 21 December 2001Reply With Quote
<500 AHR>
posted
Centerpunch,

I apologize for my previous response back to you. I assure you it was meant in JEST! I apologize further for my poor wording in my original post, which started this thread.

To clear up all misunderstandings. I have concocted this approach to lapping and used it only once before. I was interested in knowing if any of the gunsmith's here at tried this or something very similar. Furthermore, I figured I would provide an alternative form of lapping for anyone elses consideration. A more practical form has been put forward by the gentlemen using a spent case, a wooden dowel, and a bicycle inner tube. Very ingenius, I might add.

Centerpunch you seen to be rather ingnorant of the entire lapping procedure. You tell me I should not do it this way, but you offer no reasons why. I welcome enlightenment and constructive critism. I did neglect to mention the checking of head spacing, which I did amend in a proceding post.

I might add in the traditional form of lapping the gunsmith must check the headspace after lapping as well. He may have to adjust the head space after lapping, he may not. The advantage with my proposal would seem to be that the tolerance stack-up between the receiver, barrel, bore, and bolt face is minimized.

In the past (one and only time) I machined a plug out of bearing bronze which was essentially a reproduction of a "GO" head space gage. I installed a spring loaded plunger into this plug so as to create the thrust force upon the bolt face during lapping. It would very nicely, but requires to use of a lathe (which fortunately I have). I make a great deal of my own tooling for my hobbies. You can save a great deal of money this way, and sometimes even improve upon the status quo. Again I like the case, dowel, inner tube idea that is trick.

Todd E

 
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<JBelk>
posted
Todd E--

Where are you going to put the spring and plunger if you have a GO gauge in the chamber?

How are you going to adjust the headspace you create?

What you propose in no way increases the accuracy of the job. The squareness of the receiver depends on the bolt raceway and lug recess being straight and square with the receiver threads and the face of the action. These dimensions must be made right BEFORE the barrel is installed.

Lug lapping is a small part of a larger operation. Without the other processes lapping the lugs does little good.....like balancing a tire before it's mounted on the rim. Why bother if you have to do it all over again?

 
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While any method of maintaining pressure against the seats will work I don't really like the spring loaded systems preferringto use a solid nylon fixture. Hydraulic works very well too. Your method will work fine if you don't want to remove the barrel but as stated it won't do anything to improve the accuracy of the job.
Just as critical as lug contact, maybe more so, is the squareness of the bolt face. Some are far enough out that it is difficult to understand how they could have been done. It seems like it would have been easier to make it square. Regards, Bill.
 
Posts: 3857 | Location: Elko, B.C. Canada | Registered: 19 June 2000Reply With Quote
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