I am looking to buy an air compressor to blast metal chips off of my lathe/mill, and also for blasting guns clean, will like to hear what kind of power output will be suitable for the job. It will be a plus if the power output can be used in sandblasting as well.

Info appreciated.

Air compressors can be one of the most important additions to a multiple hobby shop.

I've probably made most of the possible mistakes over the years. My Dad left me a little one lung, oil bath compresser made by Parr and it was used for the duties you mentioned for many years. One of my kids boo-boo's and managed to get the handle of an implement so that it jammed the motor and it promply destroyed itself. Thinking about the age of the machine and the abuse it had taken over the years, I decided that it was time to replace it.

So, I bought a 4 hp Coleman oil-free (diaphragm) compressor with a 7.5 gallon tank. Damn thing was noisy as hell. Would literally drive you out of the shop! Great for running an air brush and blowing things off the mill ... if you could stand the noise.

Ask around a lot of automotive shops and got a lot of input that a two stage 60 or 80 gallon machine was the way to go if I wanted to do sandblasting and to run air tools. Also was told that many shops had excellent experiences with Quincy machines ... some having been in service in excess of 25 years.

(At the time, Harbor Freight carrier two models of the Quincy.) So ... I bought a two stage, 60 gallon Quincy. Has sat in the shop and run when needed for 4 years. I drain the water out of the tank each day when I'm working and change the oil and filters as recommended. It is a superb machine that I expect will last through the next generation.

The oil free machine is still used, but ONLY for painting with a smaller gun.

Sure is nice to have air in a shop. You can get mighty spoiled! They are worth what ever they cost ... but it's cheaper to do it right the first time.

Good luck with your decision.

Pyro,
until you said sandblasting, anything that had a 10 gallon tank would have worked.

the sandblasting requires 5 or 6 cfm at 70 to 90 psi. that REQUIRES a lage tank 20+ gallons, and a 5.6 or higher motor. That motor WILL draw ALOT of amps when it restarts, and should, ideally, be on it's own circuit AND on a VERY short cord.

Sams is selling a 6 horse, 22 gallon upright (I prefer uprights for bled out/cleanout reasons) for less than $250... about what you can get a 4hp, 10 gallon pancake for, that WONT do the job.

after that, order you SB and tools from www.grizzly.com

good luck
jeffe

Ihave one similar to mstarlings, I bought it from Sears. You don't need the unit to be in the shop because of the noise. If you can, locate it in a separate room or in an enclosure outside the shop and then just plum the shop with air and have detachabel fittings everywhere. Don't forget the maintenace though.

My uncle loaned me his small one, little two tank deal that is semi-portable (meaning I can lift and move it but it is heavy as hell). I almost never use it and leave it with pressure inside, should I be draining it regular? and what other maintenance should I look at doing for it?

When I get a proper house with a proper shop I will get a big one with the rest of the shop stuff I plan on getting, and probably put it somewhere queit and just run pipes all over the place with connects for the hoses.

red

I have been using compressor's for 15 yrs, portable and staionary. For the small sand blast units you will need at least the 20 gal. with the 5 hp motor. If you have room, money, and enough electric, buy the large compressor that runs on 220.and a 60 gal tank.
I tend to stay away form the oil free units as they are loud and dont seem to last as long.

Drain them daily and if you are going to use it for painting buy the best filter you can get to keep water out of your tools .

Pyrotek

One of the first lessions in machine shop practice is care and maintenance of tools and equipment. Most schools and shops forbid the use of compressed air anywhere near a precision machine. Blowing small swarf into all the little crevases and recesses, (especially the bed wipers), mixes with cutting oil, creates a lap and causes premature wear.

Use a vacuum, an oil rag or a magnet, but avoid using a "blast of air" if you value your machine and hope to keep it accurate.

Roger

One thing that I think is vital; a drain valve at the bottom of the tank, one that will blow out the air when you ar finished using it and any moisture in the tank. I have a fairly new compressor without this feature. The last time I used it, the tank leaked. It's rusted through. I'm in the market for a new compressor myself.

Compressor are sold by the cubic feet per min. When they give the horsepower numbers they are B.S.ing you, 15 amps( 3hp) at 230 volts gives 8 to 10cfm. Mine says 5hp,but my Unisaw draws 15amp and is a 3hp.If you look at the tool requirements,you soon see it takes a lot of air to run tools.Belt drive ,cast iron is what you want.

A lot of issues being discussed here. Pancake compressors are great (and loud) for running a framing or finish nailer. Other then that they are basicly useless for long work. I leave my oil free 20gal sit outside and run the hose in a window or door. Can not stand listening to that thing for extended periods of use. The most inportant thing to remember is have a good filter, pressure regulator and oiler depending on the type of work you are doing.

Oh and I would never buy anything from Sears that might need service. The way they volume buy and relabel you are never really sure what you own and whether parts will be available before your retirement or funeral. Sears non-motorized tools are great, just beware of the rest.

Pyrotec,
Whatever you decide on, make sure it has a cast iron pump instead of aluminum, lasts longer.
Home Depot stores have a real nice upright, with a V-twin, cast iron,7 1/2 hp I think, for about a $1000 US.
Stepchild