I have a Winchester 140 shotgun that has a stuck choke tube. It was like that when I bought it so apparently it has not had any lube before being installed and has really attached itself. I put an "O" ring on the barrel as a dam just below the knurled ring and been soaking it with Kroil's for a couple of days, also tried a small amount of heat but no go. Any other ideas anyone might have????

I've used Kroil, brake cleaner, and several other things. One thing I've noticed is that people try to hurry things along. Sometimes removal of choke tubes has taken several weeks rather than several days.

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I put an "O" ring on the barrel as a dam just below the knurled ring

Why not invert the barrel into a can fill with kroil and leave it soak for a week or so.

That tube has probably been "swaged" into the barrel, hammered in by the shot passing through it. If it don't move within a week or so, it needs to be bored out.

Along the lines of what Jim Kobe said, you might want to examine the choke tube as carefully as you can for splits and cracks. I've seen one instance of this in a Remington barrel used with steel shot. Remington gave him a new barrel. If it is split, it will have to be bored out.

Brownell's sells, or used to sell, and easy-out for choke tubes. I don't have any experience using it, but just a thought.

I always wondered about surface finish.
Coarsely finished threads should have more problems. Hardness on the threads also would be a problem .

Briley's have all the proper stuff to deal with this

I have used the easy out that Brownell's sold to remove many stuck tubes, even one hammered in from shooting steel shot, and one Browning BPS that a guy used it as a funnel to put gas in his truck and left behind seat for a year. Soaked for a couple of days put easy out to it, removed tube and did not destroy tube. Just be easy and apply pressure smooth not yanking on wrench.

EDM

http://www.ricksplace.biz/STUCK-CHOKE-TUBE-TOOL.html

You also might try and temp shock it with refrigerant. I use canned air. Turn can upside down and trigger out the liquid. I think it is around 250 below.

I had poor results with the Brownells tool, maybe just me, but made a way that has not failed me yet. First I milled appropriate "tits" on an old socket of appropriate diameter to engage the tube notches. I soaked the threads with 50/50 ATF and acetone, which works better for me than any other penetrant. Used a heat gun to avoid overheating. I then use a hand held impact tool and a fairly heavy hammer, first lick breaks it loose. Works for me! GW

Ok you guys can stop worrying now I got it out
I used a combination of small amounts of heat and then soaking in Kroils, did this about 4-5 times a day. Used a set of slip joint pliers with copper overlay on the jaws and a stub in the choke to keep from smashing it. Finally broke the seal and it came right out, lots of crap in the threads but once cleaned out screwed right in. Thanks for all the ideas I think I used most of them on this

What is the best lube to use on these chokes, I don't want this to happen again.

Go to your local auto parts store and buy a small bottle of Never Seize with a brush on applicator. That will work better than anything else I know of.

What H47 says.
I've had a small tub of Rocol Copper J166 anti-seize for years which I use on anything I don't want fretting or seizing. All my shotgun choke threads get a smear of this. Contains moly disulphide, graphite and some form of copper. It is designed to withstand high temperatures so won't migrate out from threads.

It's used on Steam Turbine bolts and nuts, Fel-pro C-5A or N-1000, Good for 1800-2000 psi at 1000 degrees F. Good stuff but be warned IT DOESN'T TAKE MUCH!!

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Originally posted by H47:
Go to your local auto parts store and buy a small bottle of Never Seize with a brush on applicator. That will work better than anything else I know of.

Another vote for Never Seize. I've used it for years and have never had a single problem with anything seizing when this stuff is used.