I have an old Ithaca double (12ga) that is hard to open after firing because the firing pins are dragging on the primers as the gun is opening. They are leaving elongated dimples(but no cratering) in the face of each primer, in both barrels. I have tried several different loads and brands of primers-still dragging. I have cleaned any dirt and oil out of the action with solvent-still dragging. The pins will freely move in and out from gravity when I tilt the action up or down. The ends of both pins have a smooth rounded surface and the protrusion looks about right, although I do not know what the max/min protrusion measurements are.
I have tried every remedy I can think of.
Does anybody have an idea what might be causing the pins to drag on the primers after firing?
Thanks
yd

I would need the model to check your particular gun, but in general, doubles will either have floating firing pins that move forward when struck by the hammer, and rebound via a firing pin return spring with the hammer down, or, the cocking mechanism will begin to retract the hammers as the action is opened allowing the firing pins to retract. Failure of the hammers to move as the gun is opened will cause the drag marks you describe.

I would pull the stock and check the firing pins to see if they have springs which may be weak or damaged, and to watch the hammers as the barrels are opened.

Whats the serial number on your Ithaca? Would it be between 175000 and 400000?

If so, you have a Flues model. The Flues model guns were cocked by means of a small machined piece known as a cocking hook, it goes through the barrel lump and bears on cocking levers that retract the hammers. The piece is prone to wear and/or becoming bent and it affects the timing of the hammer retraction, as Malm stated.

Drop the hammers on some empty shells, pull the forend off, open the gun, remove the empties, close the gun and put the forend back on. You now have a gun that's closed, empty and uncocked. Open the toplever and see how much the barrels drop before you feel the cocking mechanism begin to load. There should be hardly any drop before you feel it starting to cock. If the barrels drop a bit before you feel it beginning to cock the hook is either worn or bent.

I'm no gunsmith, so as you can probably surmise I have the same problem with a 20ga. Flues. I took the cocking hook out and saw the rod was bent. I tried tapping it straight and promptly snapped it.

Here's some bad news. This piece is highly sought after since it is a weak link in the design. Add to that the fact that Ithaca made over 200000 Flues models, a lot of which are still around and being shot, the demand for good pieces is high. If you find an old Flues this part is usually worn anyway so that's usually not an option.

They are not gauge specific, at least the one from my 20ga is the same piece as the one on my 12ga. It looks like a fairly simple piece to make, I have often wondered what it would cost to have a few hundred done by someone on a CNC but they probably need some special hardening, who knows. I do know I could sell them.

I have the info for a guy that will make and time a new one for you but it may cost more than the guns resale value. If it's a family heirloom however, it's probably cheap. Drop me a PM and I'll give you his info.

Malm and Recoil- Thanks for the info. It is a Flues model, I forgot to include that in my origional posting. I had thought about the timing possibly being off, thinking that the cocking levers might be slightly bent from years of use, but never thought about the cocking hook. I didn't have anything to compare the cocking levers with to see if they were bent, but I should be able to see if the cocking hook is worn or bent without too much trouble. I will check it out after work. If I need a new one, my buddy is a machinist.
Thanks again

If your buddy can machine a couple extra I'd sure be interested. Better make them a bit longer to account for the wear though.

yellowdog1-

Like Recoil Rob, I would be interested too.

I could use at least 3.