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Repairing Off-the-face shotgun
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one of us
posted
What is the procedure to repair an off-the-face or lose side by side shotgun or double rifle?

Our gun smiths adopt the following procedure.

1-Build up metal by welding on the hook and bites in barrel lugs.

2-File carefully the excess metal until proper fit is accomplished.

Is it the right way?

Saad
 
Posts: 271 | Location: Pakistan | Registered: 28 July 2001Reply With Quote
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It may be easier and lexx costly to replace the hinge pin with an oversize one. Maybe!
 
Posts: 5531 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 10 July 2002Reply With Quote
<JBelk>
posted
Shikaree--

The accepted (and MUCH safer) method is to replace the hinge pin with a larger diameter OR to cut away the old hook and dovetailing in a block which is then recut to fit.

The latter method was done extensively in England on best quality guns. It's VERY hard to see at times.
 
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Thanks Jim & JBelk!

Does the replacement of hinge pin with oversize pin needs any filing of hook also?

As I mentioned that our gunsmiths repair the bite in front lug (near to breech) also in addition to hook. What is your opinion, is in most cases the replacement of hinge pin is enough?

Lastly, as our gunsmiths are not very much aware of the metals. How to select the stock material for the hinge pin and the block to be dovetailed in hook?

Is there a certain type of alloy steel? Do you have to harden it after preparing the hinge pin? Any other suggestions?

Thanks again for help.

Saad
 
Posts: 271 | Location: Pakistan | Registered: 28 July 2001Reply With Quote
<JBelk>
posted
shikaree---

Usually there is a reamer made that indexes on the hinge pin recesses on both side of the receiver to support it.

A clamp/fixture needs to be made that holds the barrels tight against the face while the machining operation is done.

I use O-1 tool steel, sold in all the catalogs in drill rod and ground stock for most parts. It usually doesn't have to be heat-treated for use on the hook or for hinge pins but it *can* harden to 60 Rc if needed for other applications. It's sold as "Oil Hardening stock" and is easy to heat-treat in the home shop. For 99.0% of gunwork there are only two steels needed-- O-1 and 1018.

The O-1 is tough and wear resistant without being heat-treated and the 1018 can be case hardened to a very hard surface with a tough matrix......perfect for most gun parts.
 
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JBelk,

Thanks a lot for help.

I will check our local supply stores with the kinds you mentioned i.e.,

1- O-1 Tool Steel / Oil Hardening Stock
2- 1018

I am aware that we have tool steel available here. Dont know if there are more than one varieties in tool steel.

Saad
 
Posts: 271 | Location: Pakistan | Registered: 28 July 2001Reply With Quote
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Picture of wildcat junkie
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I did this once with on old sidelock Cresent "Peerless" 12ga. double. (hardware store gun circa early 1900s) I was a senior in high school and picked up the gun for $15.00

Wrap the appropriate size brass shim stock around the hinge pin! Works like a charm. If you set it up tight, it will seat itself in and last for years, mine did. [Big Grin] After you determine the appropriate thickness, a drop of red locktite will secure the shim.

Even if you decide to do it right, doing the shim thing first will give you an idea of where you need to be.
 
Posts: 2440 | Location: Northern New York, WAY NORTH | Registered: 04 March 2001Reply With Quote
<JBelk>
posted
wildcat junkie----

That's exactly how you figure out what size new hinge pin to make and install...... Shim until it's right. Then add double the thickness of the shim to the old pin. That equals the diameter of the new pin.
 
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